Vendor Preventative Maintenance regarding Battery Failures in early Model S vehicles (2012-2014)

[howardc64]

Thanks. I believe those photos are from a RWD set up: anything different for dual motor?

A close up pics shows where the "improved" hose dump at... on dual motor cars. just in front of the hump and looks like just behind passenger side axle from the front motor.

Vendor - Preventative Maintenance regarding Battery Failures in early Model S vehicles (2012-2014)

My HV heath is leading (Per Teslafi) the pack of cars in my age and mileage group (June '15 build, 62k miles), at about 76.5 KwH, but module 2, string 2, is always low. Is there a way on Teslafi to check battery and module health? If so, please do share as I would love to scan mine.

teslamotorsclub.com

Vendor - Preventative Maintenance regarding Battery Failures in early Model S vehicles (2012-2014)

You will have to pay one way or another, and it's not going to be "on the cheap". It can't be both ways. You can either get one of these early ones that will need a lot more fixing, or you can pay $30K+ for a much more reliable one that's more like model year 2016 or newer. Yeah I’m starting...

teslamotorsclub.com

Note the 2nd link has the battery pack dropped from the car which is why has such big opening to the ground. When pack is installed, much less opening.

The key issue is not where is the AC drain outlet (easy to find) The harder thing is where to extend to and dump. Not that many places under the front of the car and need to factor in forward motion will blow the dump backwards. For this reason, I chose to dump behind the lower control arm, forward of the battery pack (can't bypass this) but below the battery pack.

Vendor - Preventative Maintenance regarding Battery Failures in early Model S vehicles (2012-2014)

2016 90D -- still on the older style B2B used car warranty (until june). The car was sagging overnight; they threw parts at it until they'd replaced the compressor, the central valve block, and both rear springs. I wouldn't have put up with such madness if it were on my dime -- each of these...

teslamotorsclub.com

Last pic also shows a drain extension of coolant reservoir overflow. It would dump on battery pack without it. But this is gen1 car, later coolant reservoir is relocated towards center of frunk and I'm not sure I saw an overflow drain.

 

[donebyforty]

Very helpful, thank you.

 

[David Harvey]

Might there be any merit in removing the umbrella valves after maybe six or seven years and using a boroscope to check for water ingress and/or corrosion? This is the video that gave me the idea:

 

[mr_hyde]

Might there be any merit in removing the umbrella valves after maybe six or seven years and using a boroscope to check for water ingress and/or corrosion? This is the video that gave me the idea:

You can remove umbrella valves and check for water, but a bore scope checking for corrosion won’t work. The BMB boards run up the inside rail with the HV bus. I’m thinking about making a set of desiccant cartridges the size of the umbrella valve holes that can be swapped as maintenance items. You should be able to find one per bay that where a 6.5cm cylinder could go in and not make contact with the coolant lines…

 

[maximizese]

You can remove umbrella valves and check for water, but a bore scope checking for corrosion won’t work. The BMB boards run up the inside rail with the HV bus. I’m thinking about making a set of desiccant cartridges the size of the umbrella valve holes that can be swapped as maintenance items. You should be able to find one per bay that where a 6.5cm cylinder could go in and not make contact with the coolant lines…

If I'm understanding you correctly, I would think it would make practical sense to mass (weigh) the desiccant cartridges before and after to measure the amount of moisture absorbed, and perhaps it would might be a good idea to study how much moisture the cartridges can hold.

 

[nardosdad]

I was able to replicate what Kaveman did as I have a Signature (85K), RWD. I used a heater hose, 1/2", along with a 1/2" elbow to go from the short tube to the heater hose (just like in Kaveman's pics). A 3' length is all that is needed. I used two 1/2" band clamps on either side of the elbow. The heater hose bent nicely around the battery pack housing, and then again down and out to drain below the batter shield onto the ground.

Additionally, on the other side of the firewall is where the coolant tank is located. I noticed it has a 5/16" pressure relief exit barbed nipple that is just there in case of the coolant going above max pressure. I essentially did the same hose routing, using a 5/16" washer fluid hose to go down and out below the battery shield below the car. My guess is that it would be very rare that the coolant would get to a point where it would use the relief valve/nipple, but if it does, it would just spray all over the firewall area. Now it will go down and out. Also used a small band clamp to keep it on the nipple.

Thanks for the pics. I am going to do this on my 2014 Model S 60 RWD this weekend. I like the 1/2" pipe with clamps better than the 3/4" push fit over the existing as mentioned earlier in this thread.

 

[BrintTessla]

Very informative. I had my pack pulled for contactor replacement, and many fasteners were missing as well as all the vent side rail covers. I had to replace them at my own expense...