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Pop the hood w/o battery, difference between 3 and Y?

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Today I noticed something different. In our 2018 M3 under the two hook cover the positive wire was attached to the cover and the negative shoved inside. This intuitively made sense to me because I assumed (probably wrongly) that this was connected in parallel to whatever mechanism normally opens the frunk. Having the negative wire dangle around not too big of a deal (no shorting on the frame, etc.


It's interesting that the manual shows the negative wire attached and the positive not.

But in our Y both the negative and positive wire was attached to the cover and practically touching. If this was a parallel circuit that would cause a short whenever the mechanism was powered.

Anyone have insights here? Do I need to pull one off the cover so that it's not creating a short?
 
Today I noticed something different. In our 2018 M3 under the two hook cover the positive wire was attached to the cover and the negative shoved inside. This intuitively made sense to me because I assumed (probably wrongly) that this was connected in parallel to whatever mechanism normally opens the frunk. Having the negative wire dangle around not too big of a deal (no shorting on the frame, etc.


It's interesting that the manual shows the negative wire attached and the positive not.

But in our Y both the negative and positive wire was attached to the cover and practically touching. If this was a parallel circuit that would cause a short whenever the mechanism was powered.

Anyone have insights here? Do I need to pull one off the cover so that it's not creating a short?
Can you post a photo? As long as the leads are not touching there is no issue.

Any 12V source (even a small photo battery) connected to these leads will unlatch the hood but only when the Tesla detects that the 12V battery is not working as it should. For security reasons when the 12V battery is functioning this method will not release the hood latch.
 
Can you post a photo? As long as the leads are not touching there is no issue.

Any 12V source (even a small photo battery) connected to these leads will unlatch the hood but only when the Tesla detects that the 12V battery is not working as it should. For security reasons when the 12V battery is functioning this method will not release the hood latch.

There is no spacer they are free to move around and touch.
 

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I guess it makes sense, the positive wire is probably on a normally closed relay, so once the 12v dies that relay is closed completing the positive wire circuit that is probably going straight to the latch. If the 12v is good that positive wire is open and not making a circuit.

Interesting though that the 3 just has one wire dangle and ours was different than what was in the 3 manual.
 
I guess it makes sense, the positive wire is probably on a normally closed relay, so once the 12v dies that relay is closed completing the positive wire circuit that is probably going straight to the latch. If the 12v is good that positive wire is open and not making a circuit.

Interesting though that the 3 just has one wire dangle and ours was different than what was in the 3 manual.
The photo does not match the diagram on page 17 of the Tesla Model Y Owner's Manual: https://www.tesla.com/sites/default/files/model_y_owners_manual_north_america_en.pdf

Maybe Tesla has determined that it is better to capture both of the leads behind the tow eye cover than to leave one wire free. Anything that could be used to cover the end of either lead could trap moisture. I would leave the leads as you found them, ask Tesla service for a clarification on whether the leads need to be re-positioned.
 
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My MYLR made October 2021 also has the two wires captive just as dduffey showed. Below is my photo (ignore the plastic -- that is a Ziplock bag with my 12V battery inside for when the lead-acid 12V battery dies).

Scott

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MYLR | Red ext | White int | 19" | 5 seats | tow | no FSD | made/delivered Oct 2021

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