lolachampcar
Well-Known Member
Essex is my go to. They’ve done bells for my lotus and chevron. Good folks.
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Plaid handling improvements: better wheels, tires, brakes, suspension options
- Thread starter MarcG
- Start date
lolachampcar
Well-Known Member
Ok
Round two using rotors I am much more familiar with.
AP Racing CP3908-102GA and -103GA
Bobbin hardware is easy to source.
Time to fire up SolidWorks and do some hats
Round two using rotors I am much more familiar with.
AP Racing CP3908-102GA and -103GA
Bobbin hardware is easy to source.
Time to fire up SolidWorks and do some hats
What happened to round one? Did you ever get the RB 2466 rotors?Ok
Round two using rotors I am much more familiar with.
AP Racing CP3908-102GA and -103GA
Bobbin hardware is easy to source.
Time to fire up SolidWorks and do some hats
lolachampcar
Well-Known Member
I kinda cocked it up by posting their proprietary information.
I would prefer to use some less than top secret standard AP Racing parts that I've used in the past and just make some 7075 bells. The AP bobbins are fairly easy to design for and I have all the dimensions I need from the last inspection.
Bummer. Though I don’t see the issue with ordering the 2466 parts from racingbrake.com directly.. if I had my Plaid I would certainly be willing to try that! (looks like it might be at least another month for me, unless I’m willing to pay for 21” wheels).
lolachampcar
Well-Known Member
Given I'm going more for feel (and weight reduction) than I am stamina, I'm more comfortable relying on disks I have used in the past and are readily available from multiple sources. The disks and bobbin elements are simple long term AP part numbers. The hats are simple especially given the bobbins are fixed to the hats/bells with the float designed into the rotors.
Tevo Solutions
Former Vendor
If you can make your own bells then going AP is a no brainer IMO. Just don't go for fully floating bobbins or the rattling will drive you mad.
TorqueMonster
Member
Thanks for sharing! Yep, need better brakes fo'sho'.
@lolachampcar what's your latest exploration on that front?
lolachampcar
Well-Known Member
I'm finding pad transfer is helping and I literally really do not use the brakes much. They are for emergency situations only and hauling it down from triple digit speeds when coast down is not possible. I may very well just ignore the problem and live with them the way they are. I'm waiting for MT or similar to document actual brake performance and, if it is anywhere near my previous MS, it will seal the deal for me.
It really is weird how little I use the brakes with this car. I thought I was dong well with my P85 where the original pads were still going strong at 138K miles, but this car is going to put my old S to shame.
Ok
Round two using rotors I am much more familiar with.
AP Racing CP3908-102GA and -103GA
Bobbin hardware is easy to source.
Time to fire up SolidWorks and do some hats
Please post the CAD data of the files when you are done and the BOM to DIY the rotors lol. Who are you having make the hats? Some local or someone like Protolabs?
lolachampcar
Well-Known Member
Jack mode or the air bags completely deflate and the car settles on the bump stops (front in my case) making it a pain to get the jack out. As always, I place a piece of wood or very firm rubber on the rubber jack pad on the car then place the jack under my protective bit.
Ok time for a quick gut check on rims & tires.
Can someone please make sure I'm not crazy?
The stock 19" wheel config is:
FRONT = 255/45-19 on 19x9.5 ET40
REAR = 285/45-19 on 19x10.5 ET45
The stock 21" wheel config is:
FRONT = 265/35-21 on 21x9.5 ET40
REAR = 295/30-21 on 21x10.5 ET45
I'm thinking of going to a 20" setup consisting of:
FRONT = 265/40-20 on 20x9.5 ET35
REAR = 305/35-20 on 20x11(!) ET25
Put another way, the FRONT setup compared to stock would be:
255/45-19 on 19x9.5 ET40
265/40-20 on 20x9.5 ET35
265/35-21 on 21x9.5 ET40
And rear setup would be (also in bold font):
285/45-19 on 19x10.5 ET45
305/35-20 on 20x11 ET25
295/30-21 on 21x10.5 ET45
I know this gives the rears a bit of poke, but I like the look.
According to willtheyfit.com, it looks like this when comparing to stock 19" setup:
Can someone please make sure I'm not crazy?
The stock 19" wheel config is:
FRONT = 255/45-19 on 19x9.5 ET40
REAR = 285/45-19 on 19x10.5 ET45
The stock 21" wheel config is:
FRONT = 265/35-21 on 21x9.5 ET40
REAR = 295/30-21 on 21x10.5 ET45
I'm thinking of going to a 20" setup consisting of:
FRONT = 265/40-20 on 20x9.5 ET35
REAR = 305/35-20 on 20x11(!) ET25
Put another way, the FRONT setup compared to stock would be:
255/45-19 on 19x9.5 ET40
265/40-20 on 20x9.5 ET35
265/35-21 on 21x9.5 ET40
And rear setup would be (also in bold font):
285/45-19 on 19x10.5 ET45
305/35-20 on 20x11 ET25
295/30-21 on 21x10.5 ET45
I know this gives the rears a bit of poke, but I like the look.
According to willtheyfit.com, it looks like this when comparing to stock 19" setup:
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Are you asking about the front fenders? If so, i don’t think the extra 5mm poke will be a problem.
It’s the new rear setup that will poke out a fair bit more (about an inch). Does launching in cheetah (or accelerating hard in general) drop the back that much whereby this would be a concern?
I tried 305/30-20 but the willtheyfit.com calculator shows a significantly smaller circumference.
Will you run 285/30-20 on 20x9.5 rims? Isn’t that too wide a tire for that rim width?
I’ll have 10” for front and 11” for back. Trying to do the same setup that got leaked for the Plaid track package with the 20” zero-g wheels.
the fronts will be 285/35, not 285/30
As you will see on link below, they are using 305/30 for the 20" rears and that really did not make sense to me as I assumed it should have been 305/35 since the 21" on running 295/30
Is Tesla planning a track pack for Model S Plaid?
Looking through Tesla’s parts catalogue, it would appear one is in the works, although nothing has been officially confirmed yet.
www.google.com
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