sorka
Well-Known Member
The issue is different
How so? And what is the root of the issue? Excessive negative rear camber or something else?
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The issue is different
Only because this subset of owners thinks it is.The issue is different
Toe. All the toe.How so? And what is the root of the issue? Excessive negative rear camber or something else?
Toe. All the toe.
Camber without toe isn’t a tire killer. Add in the tendency of teslas to toe out upon acceleration and woooahhhhhhhh wiped tire edge.
My prior to refresh S(19,20,21s) and X (20s and 22s) never had camber wiping tires issues. They had toe wiping tires issues. Removing the toe and leaving the -1.5 to -2.4deg camber never wiped a tire. Even while towing with the X.I don't get it. Toe is fixable in alignment and the rear toe tie rods on the refresh have way more range than the Raven and before. And camber prior to refresh alone was a tire killer on the 21" wheels. There are literally dozens of threads with thousands of posts on the issue.
My prior to refresh S(19,20,21s) and X (20s and 22s) never had camber wiping tires issues. They had toe wiping tires issues. Removing the toe and leaving the -1.5 to -2.4deg camber never wiped a tire. Even while towing with the X.
A tesla under acceleration will toe out. Magically everyone with a 1000hp tesla wears out rear tires. Woahhhh I wonder what could have ever caused this.
This is E39M5 ownerbase all over again, 23+ years later.
You answered your X wiping tires. Toe out + accel = more toe out = wiped tires. Gimme some numbers of what your rear toe was actually set to. You can do degrees or inches or millimeters, you’ll see your problem immediately.My MXP's rear camber was -2.4 on each side on low. Toe was nearly neutral with just the slightest toe out. The factory summer tires were down to the cord on the inside within 8K miles with the outside down only a few 32nds from new.
Had the same problem on my P85D but it wasn't as severe because camber was -1.7. Fixed that with adjustable upper arms bringing that into -1.2 on each side.
Incorrect. Toe out decreases under power, no the other way around. The wheels get pulled forward during acceleration relative to the cradle. Toe in results in more toe in during acceleration, not the other way around.You answered your X wiping tires. Toe out + accel = more toe out = wiped tires. Gimme some numbers of what your rear toe was actually set to. You can do degrees or inches or millimeters, you’ll see your problem immediately.
I’ll go ahead and disagree with ya. And stop ya there, I’m good. Not here to convince you… frankly don’t care that the fart sniffers live in their echo chamber.Incorrect. Toe out decreases under power, no the other way around. The wheels get pulled forward during acceleration relative to the cradle. Toe in results in more toe in during acceleration, not the other way around.
Look at the alignment sheet I posted with the previous post. The rear toe alignment is perfect.
I’ll go ahead and disagree with ya. And stop ya there, I’m good. Not here to convince you… frankly don’t care that the fart sniffers live in their echo chamber.
Ah. I see your ninja edited pic. Lol you think .2deg IN is “perfect” ?! Are you nuts? I need some of these drugs you’re on. As I suspected, you answered your own question on why you wiped rear tires.
do you think that positive toe is out? hint: it’s IN. Wheels go out under accel because math… bushing deflection…Yes. This is perfect for an axel under power. You're confusing non driven axels with driven. On driven axels, wheels move forward under acceleration rotating clockwise (looking down) on the left and counterclockwise on the right. Non driven wheels do just the opposite slightly. When braking, all 4 wheels toe out even more. Front much more.
You can go on believing whatever you want. It doesn't make you right.
No offense, but you're using technical terms in the incorrect context throughout multiple posts. Usually this means someone is googling a topic and regurgitating verbiage without understanding application of those terms.Incorrect. Toe out decreases under power, no the other way around. The wheels get pulled forward during acceleration relative to the cradle. Toe in results in more toe in during acceleration, not the other way around.
Look at the alignment sheet I posted with the previous post. The rear toe alignment is perfect.
“My alignment is perfect because it’s within factory specs for tire killing and not owner killing. I will disagree with the truth because it doesn’t fit my into echo chamber” - @sorka probably.
do you think that positive toe is out? hint: it’s IN. Wheels go out under accel because math… bushing deflection…
Yeah, the truth totally doesn’t make me right… but it sure keeps my tires perfect.
would love to know how much experience you have with aligning vehicles. But also… I couldn’t care less if I tried.
Congrats tho, you played yourself.
No offense, but you're using technical terms in the incorrect context throughout multiple posts. Usually this means someone is googling a topic and regurgitating verbiage without understanding application of those terms.
It's a fairly common occurrence I experience at work when someone believes their ability to use google trumps my PhD.
Your reading comprehension leaves much to be desired. Thankfully I can point and laugh on this fine Sunday morning while letting you sniff farts from your echo chamber.So when you thought my toe was toe out, you insisted that was the problem. Then you saw my alignment sheet and that it's actually toe in yet you previously insisted that acceleration results in more toe out. I said the opposite. I was wrong. Normally this is true unless you have a suspension design that compensates. The S/X rear suspension integral link does just that by evenly distributing braking and acceleration forces between the control arms so that your alignment doesn't drastically change but as you said, it does toe out duration acceleration because as the hub is pulled forward, the hub itself rotates out slightly because the integral link pulls it in on the back.
So if my toe in (positive) becomes more toe out (less positive) during acceleration (as you said), there's no way toe is causing rapid tire wear. Also, if it was just toe, then you'd have rapid tire wear across the entire tread width, not just the inside only. This is why decreasing camber with the aftermarket solutions (arms or shims) to something reasonable solves the problem.
If the issue in this thread was primarily toe and not negative camber, it would be easily fixed with the current refresh. How many members in this thread had their tire wear issue fixed after alignment?
That’s exactly what i said it is, mainly a toe problem, unlike the previous gen which just had camber wear. why did you disagree with me?Only because this subset of owners thinks it is.
it is an alignment issue, plain and simple. it is not a ford+Firestone defect as some would like it to be.
Wut?That’s exactly what i said it is, mainly a toe problem, unlike the previous gen which just had camber wear. why did you disagree with me?
Not sure I want to join this, umm, debate, but I'm quite certain toe out causes inner tire wear, regardless of camber. Extra negative camber just makes inner wear worse. A smidge of toe in on the rear gives stability - toe out in the rear can make a very unstable car under acceleration out of a corner. C7 Corvette Z06's were notably twitchy with toe out under bump/hard acceleration. Fix the bump steer (that is, toe changes with ride height changes) with proper caster settings and you have a happy, stable car with good tire wear..2deg in (with any amount of NEG camber) is wiping the inner edges.