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P3 Brake Job

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I had to pry my 910 pads out with a flat head screwdriver to get the adhesive to release, so it seems to hold even after being heated up quite a bit. Not sure how it will hold up to being released and re-adhered though.

The adhesive is only intended for once or twice use, not meant for multiple releases. The particular 3M adhesive is only available to commercial/industrial customers, not consumers, I talked with 3M. The adhesive is there to provide a clean release of pad from rotor when brake isn’t applied, the beefy ears on the pad keeps on the caliper. After couple switches, I ran the pads without anything(most aftermarket pads), it’s fine, no adverse sound or performance hit.
 
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I wish Tesla had used a more common rear caliper/pad on the P3D.

This was mentioned by @EVTuning in a different thread. RB is working on two new rear BBK for M3/P3. One of them is using MS rear caliper, which has a more common and larger pad shape. This will increase the thermal capacity of the rear brakes significantly over any other known solutions. Some might consider this as overkill. But some might say +400hp on a daily driver an overkill. From my track experiences this year, even with Motul 660, I have slightly boiled the rear fluid after one hard day. I'm keen on following the development of MS rear BBK. I have started monitoring the price of used MS calipers on eBay. :rolleyes:

https://www.racingbrake.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=2633-K
 
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Post up a picture showing the distance between your current pad and rotor hat.

Oh yeah, I have the Racing Brake rotor with center-mounted design. No mounting hardware clearance issue at all. I knew there were a bunch of reasons that I went with RB rotors. ;)

IMG_4199.jpg
 
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Hmmm OK, well I stuck the 970 pads in as I expected to leave them in for longer, although I'm hoping to have some different pads to try before I next go on track, so I guess I'll find out soon if they're sticking well. The 3M tape they use will be available somewhere so it's just a matter of getting some more of that if it actually works.

I’m 99.9% confident RB uses 3M 9082 on the P3 outboard pad. In process to track down a supplier that is willing to sell me a small roll of it.

3M™ Ultra High Temperature Adhesive Transfer Tape 9082 | 3M United States
 
So I'm finally in the process of installing my rear pads (did the fronts a few weeks ago) and tried @beastmode13's 12V to the motor trick. The motor spins the piston in place but it wasn't retracting any further. However, if I reverse the polarity, I can get the piston to travel outwards.

It extended outwards maybe 5mm before I broke the connection out of fear it would get over extended. When reversing the polarity again to try to compress it, it still just rotates in place. I tried pressing against the pad while it was spinning to help push the piston back in, but still no joy. Anyone have any tips? These integrated parking brake calipers are a real pain. Currently searching youtube but haven't found any fixes yet.
 
So I'm finally in the process of installing my rear pads (did the fronts a few weeks ago) and tried @beastmode13's 12V to the motor trick. The motor spins the piston in place but it wasn't retracting any further. However, if I reverse the polarity, I can get the piston to travel outwards.

It extended outwards maybe 5mm before I broke the connection out of fear it would get over extended. When reversing the polarity again to try to compress it, it still just rotates in place. I tried pressing against the pad while it was spinning to help push the piston back in, but still no joy. Anyone have any tips? These integrated parking brake calipers are a real pain. Currently searching youtube but haven't found any fixes yet.

UPDATE:
Turns out the electric motor was fully retracted inside the housing, you just can't see that with the piston because it remains spinning in place. If the motor is retracted you still need to compress the piston with a standard brake spreader tool the old-fashioned way. Once I realized that it was easy. Thanks beastmode13 for the time-saving trick!
 
So I'm finally in the process of installing my rear pads (did the fronts a few weeks ago) and tried @beastmode13's 12V to the motor trick. The motor spins the piston in place but it wasn't retracting any further. However, if I reverse the polarity, I can get the piston to travel outwards.

It extended outwards maybe 5mm before I broke the connection out of fear it would get over extended. When reversing the polarity again to try to compress it, it still just rotates in place. I tried pressing against the pad while it was spinning to help push the piston back in, but still no joy. Anyone have any tips? These integrated parking brake calipers are a real pain. Currently searching youtube but haven't found any fixes yet.
UPDATE:
Turns out the electric motor was fully retracted inside the housing, you just can't see that with the piston because it remains spinning in place. If the motor is retracted you still need to compress the piston with a standard brake spreader tool the old-fashioned way. Once I realized that it was easy. Thanks beastmode13 for the time-saving trick!
So what parts you use to energize the parking brake motor?
 
So what parts you use to energize the parking brake motor?
I just used a car battery and some alligator clips. I swapped my stock lead acid 12V for a li-ion one a few months back so the stock AGM battery I had still sitting in the garage worked great.

I would imagine a 12V transformer with a decent current output (0.5A or more?) would work as well if you didn't mind chopping the plug end off an unused one to use the exposed wires.

IMG_8185.JPG
 
I just used a car battery and some alligator clips. I swapped my stock lead acid 12V for a li-ion one a few months back so the stock AGM battery I had still sitting in the garage worked great.

I would imagine a 12V transformer with a decent current output (0.5A or more?) would work as well if you didn't mind chopping the plug end off an unused one to use the exposed wires.

View attachment 492857

Thanks. I'm hoping to add the other stock shim on my Endless pads. Did one side via pulling the motor and manual retracting it, but I'll gladly save some time with the 12V method.
 
Thanks. I'm hoping to add the other stock shim on my Endless pads. Did one side via pulling the motor and manual retracting it, but I'll gladly save some time with the 12V method.
No worries. Thanks for mentioning that you need to remove the stock shims and put them on the Endless pads... if I hadn't read your earlier post I'm sure I would've forgotten and had to redo the entire process to add them.
 
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