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Out of warranty concerns about Tesla

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He can correct me if I'm wrong but I believe that the early windshields didn't have the coating cleared out for EZpass to work. I'm not sure if that is the defect he is talking about but that is the only one I can think of.

yes, this. ezpass doesn't work. it can't read my tag. it only can record my license plate via camera after I go through the toll and its always screwed up on NJT since it can't determine what toll plaza I entered so it just charges me the least toll possible. there should be ezpass tag numbers in the columns but there aren't, only my license plate.

ezpass.png


i've complained to the NJT service to give me an external tag to no avail because they don't have external green pass tags, only internal. and i've also to complained to tesla to give me a new windshield and apply that TSB and they said no, not without paying for it.
 
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yes, this.

That's not a defective windshield. There are other cars on the market with a UV/IR blocking windshields which do not allow ezpass transmission.


FTR, my autopilot car doesn't have a cutout either. And a few weeks after I got the car, I heard they started putting a black dot to where you can place your ezpass on autopilot cars, and from what I read here even that doesn't work 100%.
 
That's not a defective windshield. There are other cars on the market with a UV/IR blocking windshields which do not allow ezpass transmission.


FTR, my autopilot car doesn't have a cutout either. And a few weeks after I got the car, I heard they started putting a black dot to where you can place your ezpass on autopilot cars, and from what I read here even that doesn't work 100%.

actually the other week I was told at the SC that on the newest cars with autopilot they updated the windshields again and now the ezpass transponders dont work again. lol.

the other 'defective' issue with this windshield though is the crack that forms from the side. many owners here got the crack, ALL at the same exact identical location. I have that windshield but haven't developed the crack yet. its a stress crack problem on the early VINs.
 
FTR, my autopilot car doesn't have a cutout either. And a few weeks after I got the car, I heard they started putting a black dot to where you can place your ezpass on autopilot cars, and from what I read here even that doesn't work 100%.
I have a 70D with autopilot, and my FastTrack transponder seemed to always fail to work when I held it against that black area to the right of the rear view mirror/AP camera. However, I found that the orientation of the transponder makes all the difference. My guess is the internal antenna of the transponder must be within that area. (Rotating the transponder at 90 degree increments showed all positions - 90, 180, and 270 failing, and 0 degrees working.)
 
I'm at 61K and this thread terrifies me. I've had a stellar experience "post 50K" with my car at two different SC's. My repairs were drivetrain related and thus fell under the 8 year warranty, however, I am having TPMS issues after they rotated the tires. I'm not going to douche-out and call them to complain that its their fault, but I would like to try to get it fixed.

I drive this car everywhere (2500 miles in one month so far), and I bought it because I was convinced that cost of ownership would be less than a similar luxury car sans gas (think: moving parts). I understand that there is no "fixing" most electrical components, I fully expect to replace a malfunctioning TPMS sensor or a screen with a dead touch sensor area. But I do shudder to think of the things that I might be able to work through myself, such as coolant or 12v replacement, where there is no guide or book. Further, diagnostics are out the window, so I have to take it to an SC for any kind of issue the car throws at me.

So far I'm lucky, in the sense that I haven't had any major issues, and the car drives like a dream. But if I could purchase an extended warranty I would, just because I know that SOMETHING is going to happen, it would be foolish to think otherwise. I don't think that option is available to me though as a second owner, with 61k miles.

Second owners may still purchase the extended warranty, but it has to be within the time limit they state on their site. If I recall it was something like a month after the warranty expired? You're probably too late at this point. You could look into some other companies that offer the extended warranties, but I don't know how that would really work out.
 
Second owners may still purchase the extended warranty, but it has to be within the time limit they state on their site. If I recall it was something like a month after the warranty expired? You're probably too late at this point. You could look into some other companies that offer the extended warranties, but I don't know how that would really work out.
But that "extended warranty" (which is not a warranty at all; it's a contract) will only be honored if the car's prior owner maintained it according to Tesla's schedule. Read the terms. This could be especially painful for someone who buys a second-hand Tesla and purchases the Extended Service Agreement, only to discover that because the original owner missed a scheduled maintenance, that the ESA is essentially void.
 
But that "extended warranty" (which is not a warranty at all; it's a contract) will only be honored if the car's prior owner maintained it according to Tesla's schedule. Read the terms. This could be especially painful for someone who buys a second-hand Tesla and purchases the Extended Service Agreement, only to discover that because the original owner missed a scheduled maintenance, that the ESA is essentially void.

This is a great point and all the more reason for Tesla to release service records and maintenance history for cars when requested by the current owner. I keep saying this but if you are buying a used Model S, don't pay for it until you see the service records for the car. If you are going to count on that extended warranty you need to make sure the car was serviced properly...
 
We own two Mercedes cars in our household. One is still covered by the factory warranty and the other is covered under a CPO extended warranty so please don't tell me the Tesla warranty is better, because the Tesla warranty is decided not better. The Mercedes CPO warranty EXTENDS the factory warranty by 1 to 3 years while the Tesla CPO warranty REPLACES the factory warranty with a 4 year warranty. So if you buy a 2015 Mercedes CPO you have full warranty coverage until 2020 (4+1 years) whereas the Tesla CPO 4 year warranty runs out in 2019 but with absolutely no way to extend it. Whereas the Mercedes CPO warranty can be extended for a total of 2 additional years so you have warranty coverage through 2022 with a zero deductible and complete peace of mind that any repairs are covered.

The Tesla Extended warranty is even more horrible. You pay $4,000 for the Extended warranty but then essentially each issue they fix under the warranty costs an additional $200 a piece. This is probably the highest insurance deductible in the segment. The Mercedes Extended warranty is about $3,000 and granted it only offers 3 additional years of coverage but that coverage comes with a zero deductible. So if you take a Tesla and a Mercedes in for a door handle issue, a sunroof issue, and an air suspension issue for Extended Warranty coverage the Tesla cost is $4,000 + 200 + 200 + 200 = $4,600 while the Mercedes cost would be $3,000 + $0 = $3,000.

IMHO Tesla needs to revise their warranty offerings and cost structure as it is just plain bad. You should be able to extend the CPO warranty up to 8 years from the initial in service date and the deductible should be either zero like Mercedes or around $50 like BMW. $200 is absurd.

In any case this is definitely not a car to own out of warranty, just like any other premium car.

If the you can continue to extend the warranty even after the first extended warranty expires, and the price is reasonable, then you are right. But I was just going by what the Mercedes web site says, which is that you can extend the CPO warranty by 2 years, for a total of 3 years of warranty coverage.

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Oh and just one more thing I forgot. That Mercedes CPO warranty is unlimited miles. Another reason why the Tesla CPO warranty is not better.

I did point this out. So which is better depends on how many miles you drive, which I also pointed out.
 
Seems to me most of the concern stems from the cost of replacement parts and labor. Tesla should work on bringing these down by either defaulting to using refurb parts or more targeted service (ie. if Bluetooth isn't working, just replace the module not the whole darn MCU). This would help a lot.
 
A lot more publicized post warranty work would help. A lot of people are scared to death about what post warranty Tesla ownership is all about. Having more examples of what things cost, refurb vs. new, and Tesla's repair behavior vs. warranty work (i.e. drive unit replacement vs. just fixing it). I am doing you all a favor by being one of those who is now in post warranty life. I will post my experiences.

BTW, it would sure be nice if Tesla opened up it's repair manuals to those outside of Massachusetts. That might allay some of these fears.

I think from now on I will only be buying post warranty Teslas, as the new car buying experience is just too costly. No offense to those who prefer the "peace of mind" of an in-warranty Tesla.
 
Each Visit, One Time PER ISSUE.

So example, if my charge port goes (And it is), I pay $200 deductable this visit, if it goes again during the extended agreement, I do not pay on that item again. So a one off $200 for the charge port and it's set under the remaining extended agreement.

Now, If the charge port goes, the Center screen (it is as well at this time) water intrusion again into the rear hatch (it is again), and a Drivers side Ball Joint (It did) and water in rear tail lights (again...), then it would be $200 + $200 + $200 + $200 $200 =$1,000 this visit, but if these issues return under the agreement, I would not need to pay the deductible again.

However, the regional manager stated to me, if something was fixed, even under the original warranty, no matter if original warranty is expired or not, that item that was fixed was still covered for one year repair warranty. I hope I understood that correctly, if so, then my hatch water intrusion, charge port and tail lights are covered yet for free.
This is the main problem here. These issues never get completely resolved, so in the end, some cars have issues that have been there since new, even after multiple visits for them. I fail to understand how an issue that has been a problem that was never fixed properly when the car was under warranty, can be the customers problem later. This is just bad business, that may eventually bury the company....
 
I think from now on I will only be buying post warranty Teslas, as the new car buying experience is just too costly. No offense to those who prefer the "peace of mind" of an in-warranty Tesla.
This exactly. It's going to kill resale values so much that picking up an out of warranty Tesla is going to be the only Smart way to drive one if one can repair the car themselves.
 
This exactly. It's going to kill resale values so much that picking up an out of warranty Tesla is going to be the only Smart way to drive one if one can repair the car themselves.

With no service manuals available, this is more easily said than done.

Thx. No wonder my toll pass never works. Doesn't really matter to me.

Had my windshield replaced last year and it still doesn't read the transponder. I don't think this is a new v old build thing.
 
With no service manuals available, this is more easily said than done.

Had my windshield replaced last year and it still doesn't read the transponder. I don't think this is a new v old build thing.

I think you all should consider getting the license plate version of the transponder and putting that behind the nosecone. No more transmission issues and most importantly you get to keep that hideous looking transponder out of the Model S interior. That thing looks so hideous that I keep it under the seat and only take it out when I go under a toll collection area.
 
I think you all should consider getting the license plate version of the transponder and putting that behind the nosecone. No more transmission issues and most importantly you get to keep that hideous looking transponder out of the Model S interior. That thing looks so hideous that I keep it under the seat and only take it out when I go under a toll collection area.
Except in Southern California, several different agencies control the toll lanes/roads. With the Tesla and HOV stickers, one can drive for free on I-110 and I-10 express lanes, but this requires a transponder with a three position switch. The switch must be in the third position to avoid tolls.

And, of course, there are no external transponders that have the switches...
 
Since I'm approaching 36,000 miles in 10 months, I'm also concerned about out of pocket expenses, when out of warranty. I will probably hit the 50K mark before November. Since the 'extended warranty' hardly mimics the 4 yr, 50K new car warranty, I'm 'tortured' about what to do. I think it's more important to have options when a part fails. Having Tesla reflash the car when necessary, is ok, as long as it's cost-reasonable, and Tesla will do so. Access to parts and service manuals is more of a concern.

I am thinking about buying a salvage Tesla, for parts. I know. certain parts will have to be flashed, but a bumper, and alot of other parts won't be. Besides, I'm more interested in the non-destructive dismantling and reassembly of the vehicle. I also would like to get into a drivetrain, and see what can be done. Sure, Tesla has far more capital and resources than I do, but understanding the specifics would make me far more comfortable. I'm not ready to dismantle mine (yet), but if this appeals to anyone else, let me know. I'm in California. The salvage MS would need to be in a reasonable condition. I'd prefer a 85 kW, with complete drivetrain, center console, and HVAC. Finally, I have commented on buying the entire replacement part for a certain price, but exchange prices have to be reasonable. If I have to cough up $2700 for a center console, I expect to keep the old one. Otherwise, it should be a reasonable fraction of that cost.

BTW, I have the experience working on motive EV's.

Scotty