Off to Kwik-Fit…

[nufan]

Guys,

I updated the car’s firmware earlier today to x.36.5.5 - then noticed this. It wasn’t in the release notes and a hard reboot hasn’t cleared it:

Nice. It sounds like it’s wearing tap-shoes or something.

Dumbarse double-check I’m doing everything right here: first time tyre replacement, and am wary given all I’ve read here.

Doubt it’s repairable (but I know nothing ref repairability thresholds - just a guess the diameter of that thing is too big from the head). The tyre compound around it looks a little stressed.

16k miles so it’s had a fair life (compared with some of the tales here!).

Will assume best to replace both at same time - both rears are at 4mm (fronts 5mm btw, never rotated). Please tell me I’m being daft if I am on this.

Kwik-Fit have these in: the basket page is missing the 98 Load Index - but it’s on the product page beforehand. T0 isn’t mentioned anywhere but silent, acoustic and Tesla OE are stated - so I’m thinking they are the T0 variants as per originals I am replacing:

I have printed them out the jacking point page from the manual, put don’t bust the battery in red on it - and am puckered at the ready (i.e. I have some pucks for them):

Anyone else used Kwik-Fit - do I just otherwise say ‘migrate the TPMS sensors please’ (assuming that’s what they do - the basket page mentions a TPMS service kit - whatever they do there - replace the battery?)

It’s holding pressure over 3hrs - so I’ll cautiously drive the 3 miles tomorrow to get it done rather than go mobile (appointments > a day away).

I’d have liked to have stuck multi-season tyres on - but the front PS4s still have life, know that would be an all-tyres job, and it’s a lease car that has a soft life in the south that I’ll probably only keep another year.

Thanks for any opinions/experiences. </ramble>

 

[M3noob]

Eminently repairable if done properly.

 

[Billbrown1982]

Yeah mate pump them brakes on that order, with that amount of tread left that is 100% a repair and move on with your life.

Also, that looks bloody expensive to me tbh. Although I havn't actively looked at tyre pricing lately, I'm fairly confident you could do better than that if you needed to.

 

[MrBadger]

Thats what you get when you drive on the M6...

 

[plisken]

with that amount of tread left that is 100% a repair

That looks pretty near bald to me

 

[Billbrown1982]

That looks pretty near bald to me

Well the OP said he had 4mm on both the rears.

 

[nufan]

Really: thanks all for the help. I haven’t much practical experience of such things.

I found this, and it looks like the cut-off might be if the hole is 6mm or less:

Can my tyre be repaired? - Tesla Owners UK

A common question that gets asked is whether a tyre can be repaired instead of being replaced, not only to save money but also to save the environmental cost of throwing away a tyre prematurely, however, the answer really depends on the damage the tyre has.

teslaowners.org.uk

I’ll ask Kwik-Fit to pull it out and show me/tell me if fixable

Will have a look around on prices too BB1982. I really need it fixed tomorrow in time for some bed-in testing before a long run on Sat, which means I may get what I’m given price-wise.

plisken: I have a digital tyre depth gauge - and it is saying 4mm across the width. Honest. I’m not holding it at a jaunty angle!

 

[Cilonen]

Don't forget to tell them the torque settings for the wheel nuts - it's 175Nm, which is higher than most cars. If they're not used to Tesla's they'll fit them at too low a setting.

 

[nufan]

Thanks for that - had no idea

 

[Masklin]

I used my local KwikFit a few weeks ago for a non-repairable screw in sidewall.

Whilst I imagine it’s very much down to individual staff at every branch, they were excellent. They hadn’t seen many Tesla in the wild but said they had been given a fair bit of training on them by KwikFit, albeit it was computer based. But they knew about the pucks and needing to be careful and actually asked me to keep an eye on them as they were jacking the car and working on it. Very interested in the car itself and asked lots of questions and got me to explain stuff they weren’t sure about, which should all hopefully be of benefit to both themselves and future customers with Teslas going forward.

Couldn’t fault their workmanship or professionalism, such that I got in touch with KwikFit HQ to pass on my compliments. One doesn’t get to do that with too many brands these days, so it was good to be able to do so.

Edited to add re torque setting: I didn’t see the actual number they torqued to, but they did have a bible of vehicle settings they consulted before setting their torque wrench, which hopefully has the correct values for all vehicles inc Tesla within.

 

[Jev7]

Coming up to winter + performance car, I'd replace at 3mm in any case.

So at 4mm, don't mess about with a repair even if possible - just get new tyres.

 

[Adopado]

Guys,

I updated the car’s firmware earlier today to x.36.5.5 - then noticed this.

Whatever you do with the tyres also take a good look under the car to check in case that screw bolt came from your own vehicle. The head looks similar to those that hold the aero panels on the underside of the car.

 

[SpanishJ0n]

Personally wouldn't trust kf with my car. I'd take it to cleevely of tesla.

 

[SpanishJ0n]

i'd plug it first of course

 

[Nick77]

Depending on the thread size of that bolt, it may be able to be plugged until you buy new ones, which shouldn't be that long.

 

[nufan]

Guys - thanks for all the help and advice.

Took it to Kwik Fit ‘Plus’ this morning - they gave repairing it a good go, plenty of time spent on it, but it didn’t hold (they applied a repair kit but the tyre leaked just after they asked me what to inflate to).

Said I only needed that one replacing as the other was in good condition. Cost £175.

I was saved by bringing my own pucks. Otherwise they wouldn’t have been able to jack it up (thank you forum advice and cheap Chinese manufacturer! Your stinky out-gassing jack pads worked!).

They knew to be careful (some other branch had damaged a battery recently I think they said) and were due to get their own set but they hadn’t arrived. Older wise-heads in the repair bay raised alarm when they thought we didn’t have jack pads - so I was impressed there.

They had the 175Nm in their bible of vehicle settings lookup-chart - and happily checked it was right when I gave them the number.

So - to echo Masklin - I’d recommend Kwik Fit - although of course ‘your local mileage may vary’. Thanks again all.

Off to look for missing undertray bolts: will assume central section inline me with tyre….

 

[Nick77]

You should have asked to have a look underneath once they'd jacked it up.

Probably just a loose one on the road that happened to be sticking up.

 

[Adopado]

You should have asked to have a look underneath once they'd jacked it up.

Probably just a loose one on the road that happened to be sticking up.

Yes definitely ... but it does depend on policy so KwikFit may or may not allow it. That's one of the advantages of having a friendly local garage where they are happy to let you poke about.

 

[kuruma]

we had a mobile guy come out and do us all four tyres on the drive from Kwik Fit. He said he'd done tons of M3s and knew exactly what to do when it came to jacking it up. He was done in just over an hour.

 

[exlatccatsa]

Guys,

I updated the car’s firmware earlier today to x.36.5.5 - then noticed this. It wasn’t in the release notes and a hard reboot hasn’t cleared it:

View attachment 726779

Nice. It sounds like it’s wearing tap-shoes or something.

Dumbarse double-check I’m doing everything right here: first time tyre replacement, and am wary given all I’ve read here.

Doubt it’s repairable (but I know nothing ref repairability thresholds - just a guess the diameter of that thing is too big from the head). The tyre compound around it looks a little stressed.

16k miles so it’s had a fair life (compared with some of the tales here!).

Will assume best to replace both at same time - both rears are at 4mm (fronts 5mm btw, never rotated). Please tell me I’m being daft if I am on this.

Kwik-Fit have these in: the basket page is missing the 98 Load Index - but it’s on the product page beforehand. T0 isn’t mentioned anywhere but silent, acoustic and Tesla OE are stated - so I’m thinking they are the T0 variants as per originals I am replacing:

View attachment 726780


I have printed them out the jacking point page from the manual, put don’t bust the battery in red on it - and am puckered at the ready (i.e. I have some pucks for them):

View attachment 726781

Anyone else used Kwik-Fit - do I just otherwise say ‘migrate the TPMS sensors please’ (assuming that’s what they do - the basket page mentions a TPMS service kit - whatever they do there - replace the battery?)

It’s holding pressure over 3hrs - so I’ll cautiously drive the 3 miles tomorrow to get it done rather than go mobile (appointments > a day away).

I’d have liked to have stuck multi-season tyres on - but the front PS4s still have life, know that would be an all-tyres job, and it’s a lease car that has a soft life in the south that I’ll probably only keep another year.

Thanks for any opinions/experiences. </ramble>

Ouch! That's a big one. I used to use smaller self tappers as an emergency get me home when I used to despatch in the '90s. Always worked for me..of course it took me twice as long to get home at 50mph.