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You should also consider that there's always a slight loss of battery power at any time.
Actually measuring voltage is quite easy, unfortunately the problem is that voltage does not directly equate to how much energy is in the pack and the potential range. That requires amp hour or watt hour counting. Then the software has to calculate the watt hours per mile you are using, and since that changes all the time as you drive it can be difficult to predict range with total accuracy.When the Roadster sits for a period of time the systems can once again read the resting voltage of the battery reliably, which may differ from the calculated voltage of the flow meters. I am grossly simplifying the whole thing but this approximates the behavior that some of you are seeing. You can't imagine the math that is required to accurately estimate voltage over the course of a 200-mile drive pulling energy from 6,831 cells. Some of you may understand it but it is way over my head.
Zak
Sweet! You were the first person to reply to this thread back when you had only 2900 miles.I just passed 90,000 miles on the odometer today, just over a month after the 6th anniversary that it was delivered to me, on 3/1/2009...
Thanks for adding your Roadster to the survey. I fixed the text on the vehicle report to match the survey question, the typical roundtrip distance is what is intended. Thanks for point that out.BTW, the questionaire asks for "typical round-trip distance driven", but it's printed as the typical trip driven, which is only 1/2 of round-trip. Which do they want?
(Reviving this old thread, since it's where I posted my early odometer reports. Might as well keep my reports all in the same thread ...)
I just passed 90,000 miles on the odometer today, just over a month after the 6th anniversary that it was delivered to me, on 3/1/2009. A Standard Mode charge now shows around 157 ideal miles. Originally, it was about 194 ideal miles.
I've not done a Range Mode charge in a few months. I typically recharge every time I return home from a trip, which is typically 20-40 miles. So, I suspect that the true SOC of my ESS isn't known very precisely by the Roadster software at this point in time.
The ESS has been removed once since initial assembly, but no sheets were replaced. It was to repair some damage that a rodent had done to the ESS wiring and connectors. That happened several years ago.
I've had only one time that it failed while I was driving it. The PEM cooling fan failed and made it so I could only drive a very short distance before the PEM overheated and the vehicle shut down. Luckily, this happened less than a mile from my home, so I was able to get it home after repeatedly waiting some time for the PEM to cool down, then driving it until it overheated and shut down again. The local Tesla SC picked it up the next day, and they had it fixed and back to me a day later.
Other part failures haven't left me stranded, but include:
- PEM replaced (just a few weeks after delivery, due to a manufacturing defect. Note my #181 VIN.)
- windshield wiper motor (during a heavy rainstorm, of course. Application of a Rain-X-like substance got me through that.)
- rear shocks (both failed at around 60,000 miles. If you want to get carsick in a Roadster, try driving one with bad rear shocks.)
- vacuum pump (causing brake booster to be inop. Luckily, I happened to be a block away from the local Tesla SC when I discovered this.)
- brake pads (only replaced once, so far.)
- soft top cables (two, so far.)
- numerous sets of rear tires. fewer sets of front tires.
It's been in one accident. A bobcat (of the animal kind) bet that it could cross the highway before I hit it. We both lost that bet. A new front bumper, and other assorted parts needed to be replaced. It was 3 months before it was repaired and returned to be my daily driver. To me, that was a LONG 3 months.