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Odometer roll call

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When the Roadster sits for a period of time the systems can once again read the resting voltage of the battery reliably, which may differ from the calculated voltage of the flow meters. I am grossly simplifying the whole thing but this approximates the behavior that some of you are seeing. You can't imagine the math that is required to accurately estimate voltage over the course of a 200-mile drive pulling energy from 6,831 cells. Some of you may understand it but it is way over my head.

Zak
Actually measuring voltage is quite easy, unfortunately the problem is that voltage does not directly equate to how much energy is in the pack and the potential range. That requires amp hour or watt hour counting. Then the software has to calculate the watt hours per mile you are using, and since that changes all the time as you drive it can be difficult to predict range with total accuracy.
 
2 nights ago I charged in standard mode at 110V/15A, and in the morning my ideal range read 194 miles as it always does after charging. I let the car sit plugged in for 5 or 6 hours after that, and still 194 miles. I then unplugged it and let it sit for 8 more hours and still 194... last night I then drove the car 20 miles and it ticked down from there as one would expect. I drove at about 250Wh/mi and lost just over 21 miles of ideal range. Today I drove 100 miles on the highway at a constant 55mph at 220Wh/mi, and saw 95 miles drop off ideal range (so 5% better than ideal range). I really just never see it drop of from letting it sit after charging, and there are now strange jumps down when I use the car later in the day or the next day after charging. Are the battery packs getting better with the newer cars? (My car was delivered Feb. 25, just over 1000 miles on the odometer).
 
Last time I charged with 110/15 my IM was around 194 instead of the 185 that I get with 220/40 (implies that method of charge affects the Final SOC); without knowing SOC and the AH rating from the logs, we can only make the educated guess that you'll see higher IM (implying higher SOC) at the end of the charge if you limit the power.
 
Makes sense, charging at higher current pushes the voltage higher at the same level of state of charge, which is why voltage is an imperfect measure of charge. Unless the charger goes into an extended CV phase and cuts the current way back near the end or shuts off to allow voltage to drop a bit and then come back on you'll end up with fewer amp hours in the pack. I see the same thing with my pack, if I crank up the amps during charging I'll end up with fewer amp hours in the pack unless I extend the CV phase.
 
(Reviving this old thread, since it's where I posted my early odometer reports. Might as well keep my reports all in the same thread ...)

I just passed 90,000 miles on the odometer today, just over a month after the 6th anniversary that it was delivered to me, on 3/1/2009. A Standard Mode charge now shows around 157 ideal miles. Originally, it was about 194 ideal miles.

I've not done a Range Mode charge in a few months. I typically recharge every time I return home from a trip, which is typically 20-40 miles. So, I suspect that the true SOC of my ESS isn't known very precisely by the Roadster software at this point in time.

The ESS has been removed once since initial assembly, but no sheets were replaced. It was to repair some damage that a rodent had done to the ESS wiring and connectors. That happened several years ago.

I've had only one time that it failed while I was driving it. The PEM cooling fan failed and made it so I could only drive a very short distance before the PEM overheated and the vehicle shut down. Luckily, this happened less than a mile from my home, so I was able to get it home after repeatedly waiting some time for the PEM to cool down, then driving it until it overheated and shut down again. The local Tesla SC picked it up the next day, and they had it fixed and back to me a day later.

Other part failures haven't left me stranded, but include:
  • PEM replaced (just a few weeks after delivery, due to a manufacturing defect. Note my #181 VIN.)
  • windshield wiper motor (during a heavy rainstorm, of course. Application of a Rain-X-like substance got me through that.)
  • rear shocks (both failed at around 60,000 miles. If you want to get carsick in a Roadster, try driving one with bad rear shocks.)
  • vacuum pump (causing brake booster to be inop. Luckily, I happened to be a block away from the local Tesla SC when I discovered this.)
  • brake pads (only replaced once, so far.)
  • soft top cables (two, so far.)
  • numerous sets of rear tires. fewer sets of front tires.

It's been in one accident. A bobcat (of the animal kind) bet that it could cross the highway before I hit it. We both lost that bet. A new front bumper, and other assorted parts needed to be replaced. It was 3 months before it was repaired and returned to be my daily driver. To me, that was a LONG 3 months.
 
I just passed 90,000 miles on the odometer today, just over a month after the 6th anniversary that it was delivered to me, on 3/1/2009...
Sweet! You were the first person to reply to this thread back when you had only 2900 miles.
Glad to see Roadsters that have been driven so much and held up all these years!
 
Our Roadster will be 6 years old in June. We've driven 44,040 miles and get a standard charge of 177 ideal miles. Our battery pack was replaced in November 15, 2010 at 13,905 miles.

It's been an incredibly reliable car. Our most exciting failure was the subwoofer amplifier smoking out. The coolant pump had to be replaced last September.

It's fun to read about other owners' stories, but it would be helpful to also document or update your experience on the Plug In America Roadster Survey. See our Roadster's history here.
 
Added my car; thanks for the reminder. 30,500-ish miles on the odometer, 144 CAC. Not the best battery in town, but ok. I'll consider going for the 3.0 upgrade, scheduled as late as possible, just to get a new battery.

I've only owned the car for three months, and it's been rather "needy", getting all the little bugs taken care of. Worst thing was getting an alert for a "drive train fault, service required" issue which turned out to be a bunch of leaves that had accumulated in the PEM. I asked the tech, and they didn't seem to be the kind of foliage we have around here, so I presume they were a gift from the prior owner. End result was an early yearly service. Still have a flakey TPM sensor to take care of at some point (they weren't in stock), but until then I can use it as a milestone marker on my commute. It usually goes off at the same section of highway for some reason. Hopefully that's the last of the "needy" things, and I'll have a full year of trouble-free driving ahead.

BTW, the questionaire asks for "typical round-trip distance driven", but it's printed as the typical trip driven, which is only 1/2 of round-trip. Which do they want?
 
BTW, the questionaire asks for "typical round-trip distance driven", but it's printed as the typical trip driven, which is only 1/2 of round-trip. Which do they want?
Thanks for adding your Roadster to the survey. I fixed the text on the vehicle report to match the survey question, the typical roundtrip distance is what is intended. Thanks for point that out.
 
(Reviving this old thread, since it's where I posted my early odometer reports. Might as well keep my reports all in the same thread ...)

I just passed 90,000 miles on the odometer today, just over a month after the 6th anniversary that it was delivered to me, on 3/1/2009. A Standard Mode charge now shows around 157 ideal miles. Originally, it was about 194 ideal miles.

I've not done a Range Mode charge in a few months. I typically recharge every time I return home from a trip, which is typically 20-40 miles. So, I suspect that the true SOC of my ESS isn't known very precisely by the Roadster software at this point in time.

The ESS has been removed once since initial assembly, but no sheets were replaced. It was to repair some damage that a rodent had done to the ESS wiring and connectors. That happened several years ago.

I've had only one time that it failed while I was driving it. The PEM cooling fan failed and made it so I could only drive a very short distance before the PEM overheated and the vehicle shut down. Luckily, this happened less than a mile from my home, so I was able to get it home after repeatedly waiting some time for the PEM to cool down, then driving it until it overheated and shut down again. The local Tesla SC picked it up the next day, and they had it fixed and back to me a day later.

Other part failures haven't left me stranded, but include:
  • PEM replaced (just a few weeks after delivery, due to a manufacturing defect. Note my #181 VIN.)
  • windshield wiper motor (during a heavy rainstorm, of course. Application of a Rain-X-like substance got me through that.)
  • rear shocks (both failed at around 60,000 miles. If you want to get carsick in a Roadster, try driving one with bad rear shocks.)
  • vacuum pump (causing brake booster to be inop. Luckily, I happened to be a block away from the local Tesla SC when I discovered this.)
  • brake pads (only replaced once, so far.)
  • soft top cables (two, so far.)
  • numerous sets of rear tires. fewer sets of front tires.

It's been in one accident. A bobcat (of the animal kind) bet that it could cross the highway before I hit it. We both lost that bet. A new front bumper, and other assorted parts needed to be replaced. It was 3 months before it was repaired and returned to be my daily driver. To me, that was a LONG 3 months.

Cnograts Dave, and thanks for this very informative summary. Your car's cousin Saffron turns 5 next month. She has had an easier life, and still going strong in more limited duty around our island.
 
Passed 100,000 miles

My Roadster's odometer rolled over 100,000 miles today.

~

In my last status post, I forgot to include a part failure:
  • The charge port door hinge assembly. The spring portion of this assembly broke, which meant the door wouldn't stay in its open position.

Since that last status post, I've had a few more part failures:
  • The A/C compressor failed and was replaced.
  • The A/C condenser had some corrosion and subsequent damage on one of its threaded connections, so that assembly (including the fans) was replaced, too.
  • The A/C receiver drier was replaced. This is always replaced when the A/C system is opened up to the ambient air.
  • The lower lip spoiler was replaced. This got cracked when I hit a concrete parking curb with it.

Standard Mode charge is down to ~145 miles. Range Mode charge is down to ~190 miles. CAC is down to ~123.

I've paid the deposit for a 3.0 Battery Upgrade.
 

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