I have had my vehicle for a day and a half and drove 105km return. My battery life said 320km when I left but I made it home at 26km remaining or 6 percent. I had the AC on fairly briefly and my phone was charging. Is there a way I can analyze where the battery drain is happening? Thanks!
-
Want to remove ads? Register an account and login to see fewer ads, and become a Supporting Member to remove almost all ads.
New Model 3 - but much poorer battery life than expected - how can I change this?
- Thread starter Leanne
- Start date
justinchu77
Member
I got mine for a week, quite shocked at the drain too. Especially the decrease for just having it parked in my garage. I think I lost 10-20KM a night. I think that has to do with sentry mode though.
As for your case, there is a chart that shows how much battery use (kW/h) in the most recent distance you drove.
You aren't even going to get close for the first week. The accelerator is you enemy. Play with the car for a week, then look at the Energy graphs for what you are using and then after about a month, decide how slowing down can dramatically increase your range.
AND look at the hundreds of other threads on the forums that discuss this ad nauseum.
AND look at the hundreds of other threads on the forums that discuss this ad nauseum.
To be clear, the car said 320km, and you drove 105, but arrived with an indicated 26km remaining? Was this trip all at once, or was the vehicle parked for a considerable amount of time? What was the average speed?
That does sound unusually bad. A few things to note, A/C isn’t a big deal while driving. If you use cabin overheat protection or sentry mode it can consume a considerable amount of energy. Full throttle acceleration isn’t really that big of a deal, you’d have to be on a track or driving 200km/hr to expect the range you claim. Somethings definitely odd here.
That does sound unusually bad. A few things to note, A/C isn’t a big deal while driving. If you use cabin overheat protection or sentry mode it can consume a considerable amount of energy. Full throttle acceleration isn’t really that big of a deal, you’d have to be on a track or driving 200km/hr to expect the range you claim. Somethings definitely odd here.
If you went ~210km and used 294km of rated range, that’s not too shocking. There’s a huge number of reasons why the car won’t go the distance the little battery meter says.
jebinc
Well-Known Member
OP has a total of 1 posts, and has not responded after depositing a scary M3 battery performance story. Possible troll?
OK, I am confused and have a few questions. He? Leanne?
Who sang A Boy Named Sue? A male troll named Leanne, maybe?
jebinc
Well-Known Member
Could the car be set to Ideal rather than Rated Range? I assume that's a thing in a Model 3. If so, that would show a much higher range estimate which could never be achieved by any mortal, much less a new owner.
105km total distance doesn't make sense as above 150km/h = 93 mph you get your car impounded here in Ontario so no one in their right mind drives faster than that for long. And driving faster than that is the only way I can think of using 3x rated range in summer (since it's a return trip she couldn't have just been driving up a mountain even assuming we had such a mountain here).
All I can say to that is oops. Didn't read the username.
All I can say to that is oops. Didn't read the username.
Chill mode generally won’t give you any more range. It might help train you to not stomp on it quite so hard (but you can do that with chill in or off). You can still get lousy wh/mi in chill.
Another way of saying this is, you need to be well below chill Accel Limits to get good wh/mi.
Absolute speed is a the biggest killer and that is exactly the same chill or no chill.
I highly recommend chill, not to increase wh/mi, but to decrease tickets per mile.
Posted 3 hours before you and said they are a new owner - maybe they have a life or need to sleep?
MrBadger
Badger out
New owner, first question, legitimate question, people can't even get their name or sex correct and two hours later people are calling them a troll because they have not followed up their question. No wonder they have not yet returned.
Wouldn't it have been better to answer the question, or keep your mouth shut if you didn't have an answer rather than just calling the o/p a troll. People have been locked up for less paranoia than this.
To the O/P. There are reasons why EV's may not give the range you are expecting. Some reasons are just like petrol or diesel engine cars not giving the MPG the manufacturers give. With an EV though, the consequences of getting it wrong are worse, so people get a bit more concerned. With an ICE, you just fill up a bit more often and don't notice it. There may also a brief conditioning period where new batteries reach optimal performance - I have heard things sort themselves out over the first 1000 miles or so.
Its great that you want to know why and analyze the problem. As a previous helpful post mentioned, there is an energy graph available on the screen that can track your current, average and projected usage whilst you drive. It should look similar to the below youtube screenshot.
Wouldn't it have been better to answer the question, or keep your mouth shut if you didn't have an answer rather than just calling the o/p a troll. People have been locked up for less paranoia than this.
To the O/P. There are reasons why EV's may not give the range you are expecting. Some reasons are just like petrol or diesel engine cars not giving the MPG the manufacturers give. With an EV though, the consequences of getting it wrong are worse, so people get a bit more concerned. With an ICE, you just fill up a bit more often and don't notice it. There may also a brief conditioning period where new batteries reach optimal performance - I have heard things sort themselves out over the first 1000 miles or so.
Its great that you want to know why and analyze the problem. As a previous helpful post mentioned, there is an energy graph available on the screen that can track your current, average and projected usage whilst you drive. It should look similar to the below youtube screenshot.
Last edited:
You can’t shut it off. And setting Regen low has less impact than most people think. In fact on straight highway, driving with Regen on low can improve efficiency, depending on driving habits. Try it sometime. Yes, you will use more brakes (in some situations) and it will feel different, but that doesn’t mean it’s less efficient.
Bottom line, OP judging the cars efficiency after 1.5 days of ownership is a little ridiculous. No idea what they included in their energy use and they know to little to even explain what resources they used.
Probably need a forum rule to not start yet another “poor efficiency” thread without driving for a least a couple weeks and reading a FAQ that the forum doesn’t have.
Because the site has limits on editing posts nothing like a FAQ on any topic can be developed. It’s just this constant repeat of the same stuff over and over.
FAQ’s probably should exist on tires, finish protection, efficiency and charging (e.g. a community Wiki). The info is all here but it’s spread to thin all over for anyone to retrieve it so new threads on the same topics happen over and over.
Similar threads
