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The new version is much stronger with much thicker tubing than the previous version. See the pics I took of the new one here:Thanks @jjvan. Apparently just the removable receiver piece is stainless steel. I was thinking that perhaps the entire bar that attaches to the Tesla was also stainless steel. But the stainless steel version does up the tongue and tow weight limits but I’m not sure how this is accomplished.
The 7201 that I installed on my S was entirely stainless steel, the crosstube as well as the extension.
Thanks for the information. The bolt is not yellow, and I attached a photo of the head of the bolt. I see three lines with the letters JH. I also attached a photo of the bottom of the receiver tailpiece that shows the scrapes from the one incident in the parking lot. BTW, I contacted Torklift support about this and they told me to spray WD40 into the threads to try to loosen it up a bit. But it is pretty hard to get to the threads without cutting out more of the black plastic cover on that side of the hitch. I’m thinking it might have been better if there were no threads and the bolt just had a washer and nut on the end to hold it in place. I’m concerned that the threads could get messed up from removing and reinstalling the receiver tailpiece over and over. I will get a 24 inch socket wrench before trying to remove it again as you suggested. I was easily able to torque it to the 112 lbs using just the 12 inch socket wrench but it is going to take much more than 112 lbs to remove it based on the few turns I accomplished after the scraping incident.Ok - a couple things about that. Is the bolt on yours yellow? That's the first indication, although not definitive. If you look at the head of the bolt, it should have either "12.9" or six straight lines in a starburst raised up from the surface. 12.9 would be the hardness for a metric bolt, the six lines indicate Grade 8 for SAE bolts. Functionally in practice they mean the same basic rating: Stupidly strong. This is also either a 1/2" or 5/8" diameter bolt (I can't remember which) and that's WAY stronger than the tongue weight rating of the hitch. The ENTIRE FORCE of towing is through a 5/8" MILD STEEL pin, b/c that's what you use to secure the ball mount to the receiver. Mild steel is a lot softer than Grade 8, so again: WAY stupidly stronger than needed for the job.
On rust... Did you get the stainless steel Torklift? I don't think they are selling a non-stainless for the Tesla, but I'm not sure about that. What I received, the whole thing was stainless. So rust really shouldn't be an issue.
Hitting the ground with the receiver MIGHT have tweaked the fit a little, but you aren't wrong about the design of how that bolt mounts - it's in an annoying place that is hard to get to. You are NOT LIKELY to have damaged the threads or the bolt, but just b/c of manufacturing tolerances being what they are, the bolt probably isn't perfectly cylindrical anyway. So if the holes / receiver shifted a little, you might be feeling it binding a little now and just need a bigger wrench. A 12" socket wrench really isn't enough leverage for a bolt that size under normal circumstances anyway. I put mine on with a 24" extendable, and cranked down to probably about 150 ft-lbs or so on it. But I also wasn't planning to remove it anytime soon, and didn't want it loosening up in use.
You might want to clean up the threads a little / chase them, it could also be binding on some of the powdercoating that probably dislodged when you tightened the bolt originally.
Hmm - three lines is a grade 5 bolt, that's a generic bolt that you could get at any Home Depot. I'd pull that out and get a replacement (you can match the threads) from Home Depot, they should have grade 8 bolts in yellow steel in the drawers. The lines on the bolt also say that this is an SAE bolt thread, not metric.
It's odd b/c I'm pretty sure I got a grade 8 with mine, but even then a grade 5 is still stronger than mild steel.
Are you saying that the bolt is the wrong thread because it is SAE and not metric? I’m wondering if the hitch came with the wrong bolt. The socket that fits the bolt is 15/16.Hmm - three lines is a grade 5 bolt, that's a generic bolt that you could get at any Home Depot. I'd pull that out and get a replacement (you can match the threads) from Home Depot, they should have grade 8 bolts in yellow steel in the drawers. The lines on the bolt also say that this is an SAE bolt thread, not metric.
It's odd b/c I'm pretty sure I got a grade 8 with mine, but even then a grade 5 is still stronger than mild steel.
No - I wasn't sure if they came with metric or SAE bolts, which is why I described both. But it SHOULD have come with a Grade 8 (SAE) rather than a grade 5, just b/c there is no appreciable cost difference to going overboard on fastener strength.Are you saying that the bolt is the wrong thread because it is SAE and not metric? I’m wondering if the hitch came with the wrong bolt. The socket that fits the bolt is 15/16.
I checked the parts list in the installation manual and it says part number 12819 is a 5/8” -11x4” Grade 5 hex bolt.
Interesting. Looking at the Torklift site, the pre-refresh cars get two hitch options - 1.25" and 2". The new refresh only gets a stainless steel 2" option, which is what I have. It came with a SAE grade 5 bolt for the receiver.I am posting this information for future purchasers of the Torklift hitch. The company told me that only the 2 inch receiver version of the product was updated where the receiver tailpiece is now stainless steel. The 1.25 inch version still has the steel receiver tailpiece. Also, the installation is slightly different for the 2 inch and 1.25 inch versions (e.g the 1.25 inch version has 16 nylon washers and the 2 inch version has 28 washers). The current provided bolt that holds the receiver tailpiece on is a Grade 5 SAE bolt. It seems that previously the company was providing a Grade 8 bolt.