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Flatbed to service center. Barely could get it to the side of the road.Were you still able to drive with just the rear or was the car disabled?
They ordered a new front drive unit part number 1478000-00-D and a new rear drive inverter, part number 1100170-00-E.Flatbed to service center. Barely could get it to the side of the road.
After living with the new DU for a while I am certain my efficiency is way better. My trip predictions are pretty much spot on even if I go 80+ on the interstate. Before the DU replacement, the trip predictions were *very* optimistic and I had to plan on stopping to charge before the trip computer said I would need to even if I were driving slower. I guess the old failing one had lost some efficiency.Just had my rear drive unit replaced after getting the error messages about reduced acceleration, regen, and car may not start. It is a 2014 P85+ with ~ 67000 miles. Got part number 1025598-00-T.
Is it a PM motor which goes in M3 as well?My front drive motor just failed on my 2020 Performance S. Just 6,000 miles on it. Never had an issue before. It’s currently being replaced so I don’t know what part number I’ll get.
Most LDUs are susceptible, apart from maybe some of the newer replacement ones (e.g., within the last 2 years or so), though I can't even say for sure if those are good for certain as I haven't opened one up yet. I would check the speed sensor for leakage at least once per year regardless of mileage or age, but especially if it has higher miles or is an original, older DU.@ajbessinger are all Large Drive Units (LDU) susceptible to this type of failure, or just certain years/models?
Could be that the old one had started to build up corrosion on the rotor and commutator bars due to exposure to coolant. This will cause the rotor and commutator bars to start to contact each other and "rub", which would of course create a lot of added drag on the motor. At our shop we have frequently seen them get bad enough that the rotor seizes solid in the motor and will barely turn, even with full throttle (or may not even be able to turn at all). When they get to that point, the rotor has to be pressed out using a 20 ton shop press.After living with the new DU for a while I am certain my efficiency is way better. My trip predictions are pretty much spot on even if I go 80+ on the interstate. Before the DU replacement, the trip predictions were *very* optimistic and I had to plan on stopping to charge before the trip computer said I would need to even if I were driving slower. I guess the old failing one had lost some efficiency.
I assume you are still under warranty? If so and if it were me, I'd most likely take photos of the leak and save the pics. I'd then not necessarily tell Tesla about the pics/removing the sensor unless they asked. But Id open a ticket with Tesla asking them to examine the drive unit at my cost if needed, as I heard that inspection of the rear drive unit is recommended by some. Im sure tesla would have no issue accepting your hours labor worth of cash for them to do a quick 5 minute inspection. I'd hope at that point they would A)Spot the leak B)Address the issue properly under the warranty coverageSo, what would happen if I remove my speed sensor and discover coolant, go to tesla and tell them it's failed? Possibly they deny anything is wrong and I should not touch such components/possibly voided warranty. Should I then rather cover the drive unit in coolant and tell them it's leaking and I read on the Internet the internal seal failed? I mean, warranty is warranty.
only way to know is to spray soapy water around the air hose connections at the various places to check for bubbles. Thats a good starting point for self-diagnosisHey guys,
2014 Model S P85 with air suspension a few days ago as I was driving the Yellow air ride light came on and the rear driver side wheel was completely in fender (Not aired up)
I drove the car back home and aired it up to High and it did not leak all all. Went for a 5 min drive and did the exact same thing.
Because the car will stay at height when not being driven I am assuming there isnt a leak in the air system ( I had the rear struts replaced 60k ago and at that time they would sag after sitting so I knew there was a leak)
I am thinking it may be the Ride height sensor on the rear driver going bad.
Any thoughts?
Definitely a ball joint from a front control arm.My car suddenly is making what I initially thought was suspension noise. However, thinking maybe something related to steering. Making a lot of noise when driving at lower speeds. Any thoughts?