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Model S Technical / Mechanical Issues

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Not sure if your scenario is the same as mine: 3G worked fine at time of delivery, but stopped working at some point when garaged overnight a few days later. I have almost zero 3G coverage in the garage, very rarely can I type in a destination in the navigation before leaving the neighborhood.
You should consider installing a MicroCell. I have one up in my place in Maine; works like a charm. Basically it is a little 3G cell tower that uses your internet connection to relay the call. I get perfect coverage, all with no monthly charges.
 
You should consider installing a MicroCell. I have one up in my place in Maine; works like a charm. Basically it is a little 3G cell tower that uses your internet connection to relay the call. I get perfect coverage, all with no monthly charges.
Thanks for the info on microcells; I'd forgotten I had used one of those when we were with AT&T; after switching to Verizon didn't need the microcell anymore as I now get decent coverage even in my basement office. Still have the microcell HW, but now that we're not with AT&T, not sure if it could be rigged to work with the S.
 
Thanks for the info on microcells; I'd forgotten I had used one of those when we were with AT&T; after switching to Verizon didn't need the microcell anymore as I now get decent coverage even in my basement office. Still have the microcell HW, but now that we're not with AT&T, not sure if it could be rigged to work with the S.
To setup an AT&T MicroCell you need to add the phone number of the device to the "allowed" list of the MicroCell. To do this (currently) you'd have to go into the secret diagnostic screens that George posted he doesn't want people to go into. In these screens you can find out the actual phone number assigned to the SIM in the car. This is another reason that the diagnostic information shouldn't be hidden from the end user... or at least be visible in a read-only mode.
 
We find that ours come on sooner than we would turn them on manually.

But that is fine; it's certainly better than them coming on later than we would turn them on. We have not noticed them come on in bright sunshine - it's only happened when it's cloudy and we're driving between buildings or under trees or something.
 
Has anybody had a problem with the sensitivity of the auto headlights? I noticed today that the headlights were on even though it's a bright sunny day. I switched them off manually.

I had this problem yesterday when I was running the 1.15.14 interim software. It worked fine today after I upgraded - might be a temporary firmware issue.
 
I believe I'm up to date on firmware, but I'll check. I took my first drive late in the afternoon yesterday on an overcast afternoon, so the lights came on and I thought it made sense. Today, though, it's brilliant sunny weather, so it's definitely unexpected.

One thing, though -- the displays aren't going to night mode. It's just the headlights. If it were the ambient light sensor, wouldn't the displays also go to night mode?
 
Check to see if the wipers are on automatic, but not wiping because it is not wet out. The lights will be on with the wipers selected. This is a law to have your lights on any time the wipers are selected in California. They designed this with the car.
 
Maps not preloaded?

I thought the maps were preloaded and didn't require the data connection (like the small nav devices you put on the windshield). I thought I read that you get xx years of map updates. If that's not true I'm unhappy because I want working nav but don't know if I want to pay the monthly to have the 3G connection.

Thought I'd post a picture of this -- there were questions previously as to whether the GPS worked when the 3G connection didn't. I had a terrible time the other night with my 3G connection, yet my GPS seemed to be working as my red arrow moved through these gray bars on the screen that wouldn't fill in because of the spotty 3G connection.

This becomes an issue when I'm trying to see traffic, and when the Nav system is trying to find an address or point of reference so I can get directions. Sometimes, I have to do this while driving to get a better signal, which obviously isn't the safest way to go about things. Unfortunate, but hopefully (eventually) we'll get 4G service and this will become less of an issue.

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The navigation maps get xx years of map updates. This is the nav screen next to your speedometer, but the main display runs google maps, which currently uses the 3G connection to load the maps.

They need to a way to download maps like you can on Android. I can pretty much download all of LA, OC, and parts of SB county on my android tablet. So I would hope the Model S would have slightly bigger map download capabilities.
 
Google originally didn't allow maps to be cached locally on devices - I have the same problem with the golf app on my android phone - it keeps downloading the same satellite images for my golf course - every time.

But they changed their policy - and Tesla should be able to cache the maps locally. That should eliminate the delays in viewing the maps.

Wish Tesla would provide a list of the features they are already considering for future software updates - so we'd have an idea of what issues they're already planning to address (assuming they are able to successfully implement each feature).
 
Google originally didn't allow maps to be cached locally on devices - I have the same problem with the golf app on my android phone - it keeps downloading the same satellite images for my golf course - every time.

But they changed their policy - and Tesla should be able to cache the maps locally. That should eliminate the delays in viewing the maps.

Boy, that'd be great! Just cache the maps for the Bay Area (for me) and update when they change.

I have to say, I *LOVE* having the traffic information available while I'm driving. Last night there was an accident or breakdown on my route home. I was sitting in almost dead-stop traffic for awhile, but I could see that it was only up to the next exit. So, I just patiently enjoyed my Model S for a few extra minutes and then passed the problem area.

The next thing they need to do with traffic is have some way to tell you that it's the left two lanes that are blocked, versus the center, or whatever. Then you could get into a favorable lane well in advance and the whole thing would flow more smoothly...
 
Is there any opening to this area from underneath the dash? If I want to run a power wire for an accessory to the fuse box, can I get there from below the dash or elsewhere inside the car? Or is there a wall I'd have to drill a hole through?

OK I figured out where the fuses are. In the back of the frunk lift the back of the plastic panel that covers the windshield wiper fluid. Just lift the back of it (close to the windshield) and it'll pop off the back and then you can pull it back towards the windshield and remove it.

View attachment 12273

Then there are two fuse boxes beneath. But usually there is a label somewhere that specifies what the fuses are for but I don't see such labels. Anybody know which is the 3G fuse or if there is a fuse diagram available?

View attachment 12274View attachment 12275
 
Check to see if the wipers are on automatic, but not wiping because it is not wet out. The lights will be on with the wipers selected. This is a law to have your lights on any time the wipers are selected in California. They designed this with the car.

Great thought! But, no, the wipers were set to off.

I figured it had to be a software issue, though, because as I pulled out of the garage this morning, my displays went from night mode to day mode, but the headlights were still on. So, I rebooted both screens, and presto! Problem solved. Now I'm going to have to try an experiment and reboot the screens at night to make sure the headlights stay on during the reboot (I'd wager that they do...)
 
Had some windshield fog today. Hit the front defog button, and the thing went crazy. Started cycling between the lowest and highest fan speed levels, switching about 5 times per second, and continued to do that until I manually moved the fan speed slider--but then the defog went off. When I put the defog on again, it was more normal, but it forced the highest possible temperature. Maybe this is normal, but I don't think it's required on other cars. When I lowered the temperature even 1 degree, the defog went off again.
 
Has anybody had persistent "Low windshield washer fluid" warnings? I got these several times yesterday on starting the car, and got it again this morning. I opened the cap on the reservoir, and there was no fluid visible, so I filled it up and closed the cap. It took very little fluid to fill to the point of being visible, so I figured that it had plenty of fluid and I had just topped it up a bit.

No warning for awhile, but I got one again this evening. I opened the cap, and there's no fluid visible again. I'm a bit baffled. I certainly don't think I put in enough fluid to fill a typical washer fluid reservoir (maybe a cup or two). But, where did that fluid go? I haven't run the wipers at all.