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Wiki Model S Delivery Update

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Do the buttons pair directly with the commander? i.e. if you don't have the phone with the app running, do they still work?
Yeah, the app is just to set them up. They pair directly with the commander. Make sure to disable Bluetooth on the commander after setup. There's a security feature to disable pairing once the phone is disconnected.

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Yeah, the app is just to set them up. They pair directly with the commander. Make sure to disable Bluetooth on the commander after setup. There's a security feature to disable pairing once the phone is disconnected.

View attachment 1006761

Sold!!!! This will come in handy for switching suspension heights without going into the menu each time. I like it on lowest for semi hard launches at lights but like to keep it at medium for clearance and tire wear when not accelerating.

Can you enable and disable dragstrip mode too? Sometimes I just want cheetah stance to lower the front for a harder launch even if I'm not waiting for battery ready mode.
 
Sold!!!! This will come in handy for switching suspension heights without going into the menu each time. I like it on lowest for semi hard launches at lights but like to keep it at medium for clearance and tire wear when not accelerating.

Can you enable and disable dragstrip mode too? Sometimes I just want cheetah stance to lower the front for a harder launch even if I'm not waiting for battery ready mode.
You can do track mode but not dragstrip. I don't know why. I've requested an enhancement for dragstrip mode.
 
The yoke is an joke, a hazard to safety, and an example of what happens when the boss has no checks and balances . . . and plays far too many video games.

Parallel parking and even parking lot maneuvering becomes silly as your muscle memory from decades of driving becomes a guessing game of knowing where the yoke is.

The absurd horn location (common to both, at least from 2021 thru 2023 Model Years) is a jaw-dropping safety hazard as eyes which should be monitoring the incoming threat (e.g. drivers that cannot remain in their own lane in multi-lane turn lanes, semi-truck drivers that are distracted or sleeping and begin to shift out of their lane, etc.) are instead forced to look down to find and press the friggin' horn button. Worse, in roundabouts or in ANY condition where the yoke is turned, such as a parking lot, the horn is effectively unfindable and unusable.

There is also now a long pattern of yoke wear, likely due to the tight radius which exacerbates wear on the "high points" of the yoke.

The one advantage: when parked, a 180-degree turn of the yoke allows more room for legs as you exit and enter.

Otherwise, AVOID THE JOKE YOKE.

(The extra $1k cost likely just helps Tesla defray the extra cost of the many warranty replacements!)
It was nice for cruising on the highway on autopilot. Very comfortable. I didn't mind it otherwise. Mine didn't wear out at all after 17k miles. But I wasn't going to pay more for it. I test drove the wheel. It was fine.
 
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The yoke is an joke, a hazard to safety, and an example of what happens when the boss has no checks and balances . . . and plays far too many video games.

Parallel parking and even parking lot maneuvering becomes silly as your muscle memory from decades of driving becomes a guessing game of knowing where the yoke is.

The absurd horn location (common to both, at least from 2021 thru 2023 Model Years) is a jaw-dropping safety hazard as eyes which should be monitoring the incoming threat (e.g. drivers that cannot remain in their own lane in multi-lane turn lanes, semi-truck drivers that are distracted or sleeping and begin to shift out of their lane, etc.) are instead forced to look down to find and press the friggin' horn button. Worse, in roundabouts or in ANY condition where the yoke is turned, such as a parking lot, the horn is effectively unfindable and unusable.

There is also now a long pattern of yoke wear, likely due to the tight radius which exacerbates wear on the "high points" of the yoke.

The one advantage: when parked, a 180-degree turn of the yoke allows more room for legs as you exit and enter.

Otherwise, AVOID THE JOKE YOKE.

(The extra $1k cost likely just helps Tesla defray the extra cost of the many warranty replacements!)
....🍿
 
Wanted to get people’s thoughts on my situation:

I have an active order for a LR with a trade in value offer from Tesla for my current vehicle (let’s say $40k). The trade in offer from Tesla recently expired and updated offer is roughly $3k lower than prior offer. Nothing has changed about the car, no new miles, only time has passed and $3k seems steep.

I’m also part of the group of late 23’ customers who are being asked to “update design” by January 10th for a 24’ vin or they will cancel my order and refund my $250.

My question is, what are the chances that if I let Tesla cancel my order, then reorder the Model S, and resubmit my vehicle for trade in appraisal that it will come back closer to my original $40k offer? Does anyone have experience with getting a reappraisal via a reorder?

Feels like wishful thinking but never hurts to ask.

TIA.
 
Wanted to get people’s thoughts on my situation:

I have an active order for a LR with a trade in value offer from Tesla for my current vehicle (let’s say $40k). The trade in offer from Tesla recently expired and updated offer is roughly $3k lower than prior offer. Nothing has changed about the car, no new miles, only time has passed and $3k seems steep.

I’m also part of the group of late 23’ customers who are being asked to “update design” by January 10th for a 24’ vin or they will cancel my order and refund my $250.

My question is, what are the chances that if I let Tesla cancel my order, then reorder the Model S, and resubmit my vehicle for trade in appraisal that it will come back closer to my original $40k offer? Does anyone have experience with getting a reappraisal via a reorder?

Feels like wishful thinking but never hurts to ask.

TIA.
The drop in trade value is Tesla gaming the system. My trade offer expired a few times when I decided I wanted to get into a new S. Their first offer in July last year was 33K. The last offer in October was $25k. I sold the car privately for $45K
 
Wanted to get people’s thoughts on my situation:

I have an active order for a LR with a trade in value offer from Tesla for my current vehicle (let’s say $40k). The trade in offer from Tesla recently expired and updated offer is roughly $3k lower than prior offer. Nothing has changed about the car, no new miles, only time has passed and $3k seems steep.

I’m also part of the group of late 23’ customers who are being asked to “update design” by January 10th for a 24’ vin or they will cancel my order and refund my $250.

My question is, what are the chances that if I let Tesla cancel my order, then reorder the Model S, and resubmit my vehicle for trade in appraisal that it will come back closer to my original $40k offer? Does anyone have experience with getting a reappraisal via a reorder?

Feels like wishful thinking but never hurts to ask.

TIA.
I have never seen Tesla's trade-in value go up. Only down. And when you bring car in, they will drop it another grand or two at the last moment since they know you are the most vulnerable state. Sell elsewhere.
 
Wanted to get people’s thoughts on my situation:

I have an active order for a LR with a trade in value offer from Tesla for my current vehicle (let’s say $40k). The trade in offer from Tesla recently expired and updated offer is roughly $3k lower than prior offer. Nothing has changed about the car, no new miles, only time has passed and $3k seems steep.

I’m also part of the group of late 23’ customers who are being asked to “update design” by January 10th for a 24’ vin or they will cancel my order and refund my $250.

My question is, what are the chances that if I let Tesla cancel my order, then reorder the Model S, and resubmit my vehicle for trade in appraisal that it will come back closer to my original $40k offer? Does anyone have experience with getting a reappraisal via a reorder?

Feels like wishful thinking but never hurts to ask.

TIA.
I doubt it will go up. Time passed and we rolled into a new year, so now your car is a year older. Funny how they don't care about model years until it is in their favor... Try selling to CarMax or others.
 
Opening the SC network to non tesla's might stabilize value a bit. I'm sure Tesla will charge non tesla owners a premium to use the SC network. That might drive more Tesla sales. I've never been to a public charging station that didn't have multiple chargers out of order.
 
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Got them a few days ago but just got my car back yesterday so need to install them. Will do that today. Thanks!
I had a hard time keeping them stuck to the back of the steering wheel because the surface is not flat and/or smooth. I used some steel disks that I bent slightly to stick the buttons to. I think I posted a link to them earlier in this thread.
 
I had a hard time keeping them stuck to the back of the steering wheel because the surface is not flat and/or smooth. I used some steel disks that I bent slightly to stick the buttons to. I think I posted a link to them earlier in this thread.
The 3M foam tape and or black Dual lock used throughout the car is awesome, I have used the latter for 15 years to secure cockpit equipment.
 
I tend to keep my cars for 10 years or so and just got a new one a few weeks ago. But I'm sure the competition will be entirely different in 5-10 years from now so will see at that time. I have a hard time believing Elon will be stable enough to still be in charge of Tesla in 10 years though. Something will give at some point either at the board or shareholder level.

Same here. I purchased my 2009 Prius in May of 2008 and it has 328K repair free miles on it. I'm currently driving it. Our 2007 SC430 is even older but low miles (70K) as I drive it on mainly short trips around town with the top down. Our newest car is our 2019 Prius which has 100K miles on it now.

The P85D was bought in 2015. It doesn't quite match the pattern because I sold it after 7 years and 135K miles. I didn't want to own it after the battery warranty expired and felt used car prices were so insane that it was a selling opportunity. It's kbb value is literally half of what it was 18 months ago so I picked a good time to sell.

The MXP doesn't count as Tesla repurchased it for the full amount plus my other out of pocket expenses related to owning it so I lost no money on it.

The MSP would also not be kept longer than 8 years. I really don't want to own a Tesla without a battery warranty.
 
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Same here. I purchased my 2009 Prius in May of 2008 and it has 328K repair free miles on it. I'm currently driving it. Our 2007 SC430 is even older but low miles (70K) as I drive it on mainly short trips around town with the top down. Our newest car is our 2019 Prius which has 100K miles on it now.

The P85D was bought in 2015. It doesn't quite match the pattern because I sold it after 7 years and 135K miles. I didn't want to own it after the battery warranty expired and felt used car prices were so insane that it was a selling opportunity. It's kbb value is literally half of what it was 18 months ago so I picked a good time to sell.

The MXP doesn't count as Tesla repurchased it for the full amount plus my other out of pocket expenses related to owning it so I lost no money on it.

The MSP would also not be kept longer than 8 years. I really don't want to own a Tesla without a battery warranty.
I made it over 11 years on my P85 and battery held up well. But yeah, having to replace that would be costly and better to just buy new.

But this new car is far smoother and fancier with all the cameras. The seats feel much more comfortable but haven't gone on a trip yet.