Yes, LFP cells still age the fastest at 100% SOC, so if you don't plan on driving the next day, it's best to avoid charging to 100%.Is it true that you shouldn't charge the car to 100% if you aren't going to drive it the next day?
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Yes, LFP cells still age the fastest at 100% SOC, so if you don't plan on driving the next day, it's best to avoid charging to 100%.Is it true that you shouldn't charge the car to 100% if you aren't going to drive it the next day?
Power from the wall if it is plugged in.I have a question regarding charge limit. Say I plug in my car and it reaches the charge limit but I leave it plugged in. Will using precondition and the AC etc… dig into range or will the car use the power from the wall somehow?
Then why is Tesla telling us to charge 100% every day for daily use but not other batteriesYes, LFP cells still age the fastest at 100% SOC, so if you don't plan on driving the next day, it's best to avoid charging to 100%.
Degradation of LFP batteries is generally slower than with NCA batteries, and the LFP flat voltage curve means that charging to 100% is the best way to keep the BMS accurate in terms of knowing the actual charge level.Then why is Tesla telling us to charge 100% every day for daily use but not other batteries
Degradation of LFP batteries is generally slower than with NCA batteries, and the LFP flat voltage curve means that charging to 100% is the best way to keep the BMS accurate in terms of knowing the actual charge level.
A relatively easy procedure is to set the charging to complete just before you start driving, so that it is not parked at 100% for that long. For longer term storage, leave it plugged in with the charge level set to 50%, then charge it to 100% when you get back just before driving the car.
Tesla cares that the car is easy to use and that the battery retains 70% of its capacity in the warranty period. If you are happy with 70%, then you can probably safely charge however you wish. Just make it convenient for yourself.Thanks for the helpful discussion, but per the Tesla manual, the recommendation seems to be to charge to 100% for daily use….where does it say to charge to the car to say 80-90%, and then top it up to 100% “before the drive”?
If your vehicle is equipped with an LFP Battery, Tesla recommends that you keep your charge limit set to 100%, even for daily use, and that you also fully charge to 100% at least once per week. If Model 3 has been parked for longer than a week, Tesla recommends driving as you normally would and charge to 100% at your earliest convenience.
The communication from corporate is simple, because you cannot communicate nuance to groups: ( fun twitter thread on this )Thanks for the helpful discussion, but per the Tesla manual, the recommendation seems to be to charge to 100% for daily use….where does it say to charge to the car to say 80-90%, and then top it up to 100% “before the drive”?
If your vehicle is equipped with an LFP Battery, Tesla recommends that you keep your charge limit set to 100%, even for daily use, and that you also fully charge to 100% at least once per week. If Model 3 has been parked for longer than a week, Tesla recommends driving as you normally would and charge to 100% at your earliest convenience.
How do you measure this. Anyway, of course you only can get 52.5kWh out of a 55kWh battery run to 0%; that is the way it works with a 4.5% buffer.Hello guys i have the same MIC 55kw LFP M3. I only able to get 49.3-49.5 kwh. Is it possible that my car does not have the reduced top buffer? I am on latest software, 18.000km on odometer, mainly 75% home charging on 10amps.
I charged the car to 100% and drove it at 90km/h till 2% as teslabjorn did. Maybe i was wondering it has 4.5kwh top buffer not the redued 2kwh.How do you measure this. Anyway, of course you only can get 52.5kWh out of a 55kWh battery run to 0%; that is the way it works with a 4.5% buffer.
There is not exactly a top buffer, AFAIK. There is jusr expanded energy content of the rated miles if you have energy in excess of the degradation threshold.
So that would be:I charged the car to 100% and drove it at 90km/h till 2% as teslabjorn did. Maybe i was wondering it has 4.5kwh top buffer not the redued 2kwh.
Nope it went down from 263 to 252.So that would be:
~49.5kWh/0.98/0.99/0.955 = 53.4kWh.
But can be a bit of rough estimate, could imply as high as 54kWh.
In the end just look at your rated miles at 100% - do they match the original rating still?
Right, so that would make some sense.Nope it went down from 263 to 252.
Degradation of LFP batteries is generally slower than with NCA batteries,
The BMS constantly tries to estimate the battery capacity. This affects the range ca at the battery icon.22 RWD (19” Sport wheels) with under 1000 miles. On the first couple of 100% charges, estimated range was 273 miles; which is more than what Tesla advertises. On the last 100% charge, it’s now showing 267/268 miles and switches between the 2 every few seconds. I haven’t changed the wheel settings on the car.
Curious if anyone else experienced the same. Does this sound like over 2% degradation in a couple of weeks or just the car finding it’s true range?
Mine was 439km now is 430/31/32kms. I'm all good with it. I'm only looking at % and the energy graph.22 RWD (19” Sport wheels) with under 1000 miles. On the first couple of 100% charges, estimated range was 273 miles; which is more than what Tesla advertises. On the last 100% charge, it’s now showing 267/268 miles and switches between the 2 every few seconds. I haven’t changed the wheel settings on the car.
Curious if anyone else experienced the same. Does this sound like over 2% degradation in a couple of weeks or just the car finding it’s true range?
Same here. At around 3000 km i see now 429 to 431 km. But i dont even look at that. Keeping at energy is the way to goMine was 439km now is 430/31/32kms. I'm all good with it. I'm only looking at % and the energy graph.