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Model 3 Charging in Australia

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I will only have access to a standard power point in my garage. It’s got 2 ports and one has the ducted vacuum cleaner for the house plugged in it.

What would happen if while the car is charging the vacuum kicks in and therefore the available power is now shared? Will the car adjust or will that excess load cause problems?

You could also set the charge timer in the car so it only starts charging at 2am when you probably aren’t using the vacuum.
 
That’s what am afraid. There are 2 double GPOs I’m the garage, on the same wall about 3m apart. One has a deep freezer attached and the other a ducted vacuum. I worry whether all of it is on the same circuit and thus even less power available.

I didn’t really want to install a HPWC or a new circuit as we’re likely only going to be in this house for a few months after the car arrives.
You can always turn the charge rate down in the car. It will be slow but overnight will add a fair bit. Essentially each 1 amp in the mobile connector = 1 km of range per hour of charging, so if you typically do 50km in a day, set at 5 amps you will need 10 hours of charging (8pm til 6am set inside the car). If you need more range or faster charging you will need to invest in a new circuit.
 
That’s what am afraid. There are 2 double GPOs I’m the garage, on the same wall about 3m apart. One has a deep freezer attached and the other a ducted vacuum. I worry whether all of it is on the same circuit and thus even less power available.

I didn’t really want to install a HPWC or a new circuit as we’re likely only going to be in this house for a few months after the car arrives.
Switch them off when you plug the car in - with a strategic post-it to switch them back on.
 
Or just run a new 40AMP cable back to your switch box....you’ll not regret it....only cost me $300-$400....

I suspect it will be a lot more for my place given it's double storey house, garage on other end of the house and they'll have to run the cables between the 2 floors by taking AC ducts off etc...wouldn't be surprised if its double your quote which given we may be moving house within 6-12 mths it seems wasteful.
 
Your investing big $$$ in the car so it’s worthwhile investing a few hundred on your charging by installing a 40A cct.
In readiness I have run two 40A ccts, one cct direct from the solar battery and one from grid. The solar battery (20kwh) and inverter can supply 25A continuously.
Unless your doing big kms each day you will be surprised what you can accumulate from a 10 or 15A cct.
 
@djayz double storey house here and have a long length from one side of house to the other also....even at $600-$800 for a year without the inconvenience you're mentioned I feel is money well spent...we have 2x Tesla off of the 1x 40amp cable (with 32amp max charge rate in each car set) and the master/slave of the wall chargers works it out well...

Maybe get a few quotes, ensure you're not getting ripped.
 
That’s what am afraid. There are 2 double GPOs I’m the garage, on the same wall about 3m apart. One has a deep freezer attached and the other a ducted vacuum. I worry whether all of it is on the same circuit and thus even less power available.

I didn’t really want to install a HPWC or a new circuit as we’re likely only going to be in this house for a few months after the car arrives.

I’ve had my Model S for almost two years now, done 60,000Ks, mixed city and highway driving. All without a HPWC, just a normal power point in a garage. Was reluctant to pay $$$ as I was renting. Worked out quite well, never had a problem.

Now I have bought a house, so getting a charger next week
 
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Reactions: jontyh
Is there any issues with getting a US 240V 15A adaptor for the UMC such as

TESLA MODEL S 3 X Gen 2 CHARGE ADAPTER CONNECTOR NEMA 5-15 1099345-00-C | eBay

and getting an electrician to cut off the US plug and put an AU 15A plug on it instead? It is rated at 240V 15A, so would seem like it should be ok.
This is terribly ill-advised. The plug head contains two important features that you would probably be cutting off rendering it either unsafe or completely inoperable.
  1. Thermal sensor to detect an overheating plug-socket interface
  2. Current indicator (a specific value resistor to tell the MC what amp plug is present)
American vendors like EVSEadapters duplicate those features when they provide a different plug than those provided by Tesla. The change in voltage is actually not a problem. It is well known that the Gen1 Mobile Connector which does not have a 240V 20A version can use an adapter from NEMA 5-20 to NEMA 6-20 without issue. That external adapter allows you to buy the 120V 20A adapter from Tesla and plug it into a 240V 20A socket. The Gen2 Mobile Connector has a wider variety of North American adapters available, so no such external adapters are required.
 
I am in Melbourne Eastern suburbs, and have looked closely at all my local charging points. They are basically one of 4 types
- Tesla destination chargers - these have a Type 2 or Mennekes plug on the the end of a cable, and plug straight in to a M3
- CCS2 fast chargers (including Tesla superchargers)- not many but a few,. these have a CCS2 plug on the end of a cable and also plug straight in to a M3, nothing else needed
- Chargers with Type 2 or Mennekes socket but no cable. For these you will need to buy a Type 2 to type 2 cable.
- Chargers with Type 1 or J1772 plug on the end of a cable - for these you need to buy a J1772 to Type 2 converter.

I have bought these last 2, and should cover all use in the metro area, and will keep them in the boot. There is one #3 close by and 2 of #4 fairly close also.

. You can also buy 3 phase and 15A plugs for the UMC that you get with the car if you travel in more regional areas, or loan them from Tesla Owners Club of Australia if you join them.

x-quoted from the Tesla 3 in Australia topic...

Very helpful post for n00bs like me currently trying to learn the charging world.
So it sounds like with these last 2 items I'd be all set for most scenarios.
 
This is terribly ill-advised. The plug head contains two important features that you would probably be cutting off rendering it either unsafe or completely inoperable.

I wasnt giving advice, I was asking for it. I was under the impression (or expectation perhaps) that those safety features were in the other end of the cable that plugs into the UMC. If they are are in the wall plug end, then it is a very bad idea, which is a pity.
 
Any thoughts / experience on the barrel vs lead type of adapters ?
EVSE Barrel or EVSE Lead

The only difference appears to be the lead option will have the lead and charge plug dragging down the side of the car, where as the barrel will hold the charge plug/handle away from the car.... am i missing anything else ?

Is it worth getting the tesla one which is $95 us plus shipping ...

Im keeping my existing LEAF charger (Chargepoint [Coloumb] CT-500) so want to have the adapter ready to roll when the car arrives ...
 
Any thoughts / experience on the barrel vs lead type of adapters ?
EVSE Barrel or EVSE Lead

The only difference appears to be the lead option will have the lead and charge plug dragging down the side of the car, where as the barrel will hold the charge plug/handle away from the car.... am i missing anything else ?

Is it worth getting the tesla one which is $95 us plus shipping ...

Im keeping my existing LEAF charger (Chargepoint [Coloumb] CT-500) so want to have the adapter ready to roll when the car arrives ...
The barrel type of adapter puts greater strain on your Tesla charge port as it extends the leverage imposed by the charge cable, plus it is easier to leave behind.
The cable type is a bit more work to connect and takes up a bit more space.
I think either will do the job.
I have the cable type, but only because that’s all that was available at the time. I keep mine in the boot underfloor store. I take it out of the store, unlock the charger and bring the J1772 to the adapter and connect them together then lower the combined cable carefully under the back of the car where it won’t be stepped upon then plugin. Doing it this way minimises the potential to scratch my car with the J1772 end of the adapter which has a number of hard edges.