I want to add puddle lights to my rear doors, but I'm really afraid of breaking the clips that hold the panel in place. I've already broken some of those little blue/green clips when I installed my dashcam, and one of them has become permanently lodged in its socket due to the way it broke, so now one of my panels is missing a clip. Are these door panel clips super strong? Should I go ahead and try my luck?
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Improved Trunk lighting - Is there demand?
- Thread starter pete8314
- Start date
I want to add puddle lights to my rear doors, but I'm really afraid of breaking the clips that hold the panel in place. I've already broken some of those little blue/green clips when I installed my dashcam, and one of them has become permanently lodged in its socket due to the way it broke, so now one of my panels is missing a clip. Are these door panel clips super strong? Should I go ahead and try my luck?
Peter_M
Member
I took both rear door panels off twice (since I used the wrong connector the first time) and didn't break any clips. I undid the 2 screws and the bolt at the top and then popped the bottom away from the door, but left it hanging from the top to do the work. Just align the panel gently and make sure all the clips are resting in the proper holes before pushing the panel back on. If you're going to break a clip, it would be from hitting the panel before the clips are in the right place. I found it was easy to get the clips to align - the only time I had trouble was when I left the bolt in place after undoing it. Take the bolt and screws right out and only put them back after the panel is snapped back in place and you should be fine. And worst case, if you break a clip, you can get replacements at the Tesla service centre. Good luck.
Joelc
Member
Perfect!
I installed those lights yesterday. Makes a huge difference lighting up everything in the rear view camera.
Installation tip: the aim of the lights will move very slightly when re-inserting the lights into the metal clips. i had to aim the lights slightly 'foward' and after i installed the lights they were aimed perfectly down/slightly away from the license plate when i was done.
Overall, very happy with the look. So much that i'm going to get lights for the [f/t]runk and puddle lights. Thanks for an awesome product!
I installed those lights yesterday. Makes a huge difference lighting up everything in the rear view camera.
Installation tip: the aim of the lights will move very slightly when re-inserting the lights into the metal clips. i had to aim the lights slightly 'foward' and after i installed the lights they were aimed perfectly down/slightly away from the license plate when i was done.
Overall, very happy with the look. So much that i'm going to get lights for the [f/t]runk and puddle lights. Thanks for an awesome product!
This is an awesome product. Instant improvement. Pete is great to work with – helpful advise. My take away for those installing are as follows.
--Definitely use the plastic tool. I actually brought the one from the web site and then an additional set to take the trim off.
-- The easiest on to start with is in the frunk. With the cloth trim – nothing to scratch.
-- Those worried about scratching and needing some practice should do the one under the doors first. I doubt your spouse is going to notice a small scratch there. I don’t have the premium lighting package, but there are puddle lights in the front doors to practice with.
-- Getting the wire to the two additional spot in the trunk is not that hard but you do have to pull at the trim. I got both sides opened, but getting the left side back into place was only possible after I took the trim off. In retrospect the removal would have been easier with the trim off as well.
-- The wires under the front seat for the rear foot lighting are looped and tapped to other wires. If you pull gently on the plug – the loop slips through the tape. So no there is no need to untape the batch of wires.
--Definitely use the plastic tool. I actually brought the one from the web site and then an additional set to take the trim off.
-- The easiest on to start with is in the frunk. With the cloth trim – nothing to scratch.
-- Those worried about scratching and needing some practice should do the one under the doors first. I doubt your spouse is going to notice a small scratch there. I don’t have the premium lighting package, but there are puddle lights in the front doors to practice with.
-- Getting the wire to the two additional spot in the trunk is not that hard but you do have to pull at the trim. I got both sides opened, but getting the left side back into place was only possible after I took the trim off. In retrospect the removal would have been easier with the trim off as well.
-- The wires under the front seat for the rear foot lighting are looped and tapped to other wires. If you pull gently on the plug – the loop slips through the tape. So no there is no need to untape the batch of wires.
Bet TSLA
Active Member
Would anyone have additional information to help install these in a car that does not have a premium lighting package? I am trying to install the trunk and not sure what soft trim the instructions below refer to. Any body have additional tips or pictures would be a great help.
1. If you have the premium lighting package, then you will have three bulbs in the trunk/boot; one facing down from inside the hatch, and two in the trim below the loading shelf; one on each side, facing inwards. Proceed to step 3. If you do not have the premium package, you'll only have the bulb in the hatch. The good news is that Tesla still ran the wires for the other two locations (yay), but you have to work a little to find them (boo), and locations vary, depending on the age of your Model S. If you are not comfortable removing trim pieces, stop now, and seek professional help. This is an easy process, but some owners understandably do not like pulling bits of their car off.
2. If your car is 2014 or later, you should be able to pull the soft black trim away to reveal the light connectors. If you have an earlier model, then you might have to pop the loading shelf off, for this you'll need some heavier-duty trim removal tools. You should find the drivers' side connector secured with black tape under the charge port (not silver tape). This is a high-voltage area, so although everything is shielded, do NOT work in this area when charging the car. The passenger side light is normally tucked into the corner, towards the opening of the trunk. Both wires can be identified by the presence of a 2-pin connector - please refer to the photos.
1. If you have the premium lighting package, then you will have three bulbs in the trunk/boot; one facing down from inside the hatch, and two in the trim below the loading shelf; one on each side, facing inwards. Proceed to step 3. If you do not have the premium package, you'll only have the bulb in the hatch. The good news is that Tesla still ran the wires for the other two locations (yay), but you have to work a little to find them (boo), and locations vary, depending on the age of your Model S. If you are not comfortable removing trim pieces, stop now, and seek professional help. This is an easy process, but some owners understandably do not like pulling bits of their car off.
2. If your car is 2014 or later, you should be able to pull the soft black trim away to reveal the light connectors. If you have an earlier model, then you might have to pop the loading shelf off, for this you'll need some heavier-duty trim removal tools. You should find the drivers' side connector secured with black tape under the charge port (not silver tape). This is a high-voltage area, so although everything is shielded, do NOT work in this area when charging the car. The passenger side light is normally tucked into the corner, towards the opening of the trunk. Both wires can be identified by the presence of a 2-pin connector - please refer to the photos.
beeeerock
Active Member
Like several people up-thread, I was able to pull the vertical carpet piece free from the upper plastic trim (carefully - there are some longer carpet 'tabs' nearer the inside edge IIRC) without removing any of the trim. The carpet was pre-stamped where the lights should go and quite obvious once you shine a strong light in the area. A sharp knife finishes the job of cutting out the stamped areas. Wires were nearby as stated, with the charge port side actually some distance forward of the charge port area. I recall cloth tape wrapping of the wires. Once you find the plastic connector, it's obvious where things need to go.
vitaliy
Member
Great news! I just did exactly that!
1 special thing was required - a long flexible round plastic stick... I've borrowed that from my cat! It was perfect, and you can get that in any pet store or on amazon. It looks like this:
Unfortunately I only took 1 photo, but entire process was only about 40-50min at night with only a flashlight from an iPhone. For all 4 doors! 2 front needed replacement, 2 rear needed hole and wiring. So simply:
1. pop the red light bulb
2. find the wiring for the puddle light - it should be taped with the wiring for red light
3. pull hard on that wiring and you should get the one end with connector
4. cut the hole under the door
5. insert that stick from bottom to top (other way is much harder)
6. tape the connector for puddle light to the stick and then it's straightforward
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Peter_M
Member
I hate to break it to you, but that's the wrong connector. See the posts after the one of mine that you quoted, including Improved Trunk lighting - Is there demand? - Page 47. The right connector is farther inside the door and probably not reachable without popping the panel off.Great news! I just did exactly that!
...
Unfortunately I only took 1 photo, but entire process was only about 40-50min at night with only a flashlight from an iPhone. For all 4 doors! 2 front needed replacement, 2 rear needed hole and wiring. So simply:
1. pop the red light bulb
2. find the wiring for the puddle light - it should be taped with the wiring for red light
3. pull hard on that wiring and you should get the one end with connector
4. cut the hole under the door
5. insert that stick from bottom to top (other way is much harder)
6. tape the connector for puddle light to the stick and then it's straightforward
What you'll notice with the connector you used is that the puddle lights will be on whenever the interior lights are on, even after the door is closed, because that connector is for the interior ambient lighting. If that doesn't bother you, you can leave it alone, but it looks a bit funny having a light shining under the crack of the closed door.
Andyw2100
Well-Known Member
Hey, his cat might enjoy playing with that light, as cats do, and since he borrowed the cat's toy to complete the installation, it's only fair!
Seriously...sorry to read that you may be having to start over, but at least you won't be wondering what's going on.
I guess my congratulations were premature.
When the factory built my (non-premium interior lighting) car, they wired the door-edge warning light for one of the rear doors onto the ambient lighting connector, so I had a red glow coming from around the door at various times when that door was closed. (The service center fixed it.)
Skotty
2014 S P85 | 2023 F-150L
Awesome, thanks. Ordered.
All the details in this thread really sold me on it. Well, that, and seeing how feeble the trunk lighting is in my 2014 Model S I picked up less than a week ago.
Others have provided various pictures, but I'm thinking I will take pictures and detail my installation as well, in case it might help anyone. I have a 2014 S without the extra trunk lighting (only has the hatch light).
All the details in this thread really sold me on it. Well, that, and seeing how feeble the trunk lighting is in my 2014 Model S I picked up less than a week ago.
Others have provided various pictures, but I'm thinking I will take pictures and detail my installation as well, in case it might help anyone. I have a 2014 S without the extra trunk lighting (only has the hatch light).
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beeeerock
Active Member
I have not yet gone into the back doors (no lights there now), but I've done all 10 other locations. I have to say that the job was much easier than I expected. Plenty of detailed explanations in this thread of how to do it... which are good information but also tend to leave you feeling it's a difficult job - at least that's what I found.
It's all really easy. I wound up using a long slender flathead screwdriver I had previously wrapped with electrical tape (for another project - long story) instead of the spudger because it just had more persuasive power and also was able to get into tighter spots. No scratches at all!
Highly recommended upgrade!
It's all really easy. I wound up using a long slender flathead screwdriver I had previously wrapped with electrical tape (for another project - long story) instead of the spudger because it just had more persuasive power and also was able to get into tighter spots. No scratches at all!
Highly recommended upgrade!
Ivo-G
Member
I've been waiting to install these since I got them in on the 1st of January. Now I finally have the car and only need to get my camera out to take proper before and after pictures with the exposure set to manual so as to prevent the camera from changing the levels and making the OEM's look better or the AO version look worse than they really are due to corrections in the exposure.
Awesome, thanks. Ordered.
All the details in this thread really sold me on it. Well, that, and seeing how feeble the trunk lighting is in my 2014 Model S I picked up less than a week ago.
Others have provided various pictures, but I'm thinking I will take pictures and detail my installation as well, in case it might help anyone. I have a 2014 S without the extra trunk lighting (only has the hatch light).
Pictures are always helpful, especially from cars that don't have the upgrade package. Most common cause of support requests is locating the cables for the trunk lights, as Tesla has slightly varied the location over the years.
The light brackets for under the seats has been the other issue, as Tesla hasn't had stock for over a month now. We've now completed the 3D modeling, and have a final print that can go into production, so we're just working out the most cost effective way of doing that. 3D printing will be a lot more expensive than the bracket cost from Tesla, but most injection molding companies have high minimum order quantities. Either way, we'll have something figured out very soon.
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