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My Model 3 long range won’t charge.
I’m trying from a 120 volt plug.
I’ve tried two different outlets and it keeps popping the circuit breaker!
My Model 3 long range won’t charge.
I’m trying from a 120 volt plug.
I’ve tried two different outlets and it keeps popping the circuit breaker!
You can have other things on the same circuit like LED garage lights, power tool battery chargers, etc. but nothing big. And incandescent lights count as big. Each 100W light bulb is almost 1A out of the three amps you have left over after EV charging.Whatever outlet/breaker you use to charge your vehicle, the EVSE/charger must be the ONLY thing running on that outlet/breaker. If anything else is powered from that outlet, drawing 12A continuously from it will overload it. This is, of course, assuming it is a 15A circuit. The rating for the circuit is the peak rating, not the continuous rating. Continuous rating is 80% of peak, so 15A * 0.8 = 12A maximum continuous current. So, again, if anything else is on the same circuit and your EVSE/car is drawing 12A from it, it will trip the breaker.
Now, if it is tripping the breaker immediately after you plug in the EVSE, something else is wrong. My post above is assuming that the breaker is tripping after the vehicle has been charging for a bit.
Good catch. Maybe he has GFCI breakers? If so, then replace the breaker as GFCIs have a limited lifespan.This is why the early Nissan LEAF was set by default to only draw 8A. It was expected that people would probably be plugging into whatever outlet they had handy that was shared with other things and might not be a dedicated line only for the car.
So could be that, but also, if it's in a garage, those 120V outlets have been required to be GFCI outlets for a long time, and the initial ground test of the charging cable will frequently trip the GFCI, when they get old and finnicky and out of spec. Except you did say the breaker, so I suppose you're probably not talking about the resettable button on a GFCI receptacle.