Hit a rock on the road with my MYLR

[dpilot83]

One of the following videos is going to depict a totally foreign driving environment for probably everyone who reads this thread. Many of you will say I should be driving a Jeep or an Expedition or a pickup or whatever that is more designed for these roads.

I'm getting off-track of the point of the thread but I have started threads like this before asking for help and it always devolves into my poor choice of vehicles rather than the issue at hand so I wanted to address it to the best of my ability first thing.

As farmers with a bunch of kids, and over the last three generations our family has driven these roads with a 1964 Ford Falcon, Ford LTD, 1988 Ford Taurus, 1999 Toyota Avalon, 1999 Buick Park Avenue, 2001 Toyota Sienna, 2005 Honda Civic, 2013 Honda Odyssey, 2023 Honda Odyssey and now this 2023 Model Y. When we're hauling kids and it's 30 miles to the town we frequently go to for school, church, shopping, etc, it's overall a lot more user friendly and economical to drive a lower cost family type vehicle:

• Kids can get in and out eaiser
• Parking in town is easier
• cost per mile to trade is cheaper
• cost per year to insure is cheaper
• cost per mile for fuel/electricity is lower
• generally the reliability on the commuter vehicles is better than the taller heavier vehicles leading to lower maintenance costs despite the adverse conditions

In this situation the road graders had just come through to smooth the roads out because of a recent weather event. They pulled up some rock chunks that were in the gravel when they put gravel on the road years ago. This is a common occurrence and it's always a judgement call when you're in that environment on whether to swerve to the side (where there are often a bunch more rocks) or keep rolling. Most everyone drives between 55 and 70 mph on these roads which probably sounds pretty crazy to those of you who are not used to these conditions but it's normal here. Once you get used to driving the roads and you figure out where the potholes are and so on, it's just another day.

In this case, I was going 70 when I saw this rock. I really thought I was going to clear it but I was wrong. It happens. It has happened to all of us in all of the vehicles that we have driven over the years.

On the main topic. First video is the road and the rock (sorry about the wind noise).

Second video is the damage to the vehicle.

My questions are:

1. Is there a way for me to buy parts from Tesla so I can replace that shield myself? I live almost 200 miles from the nearest service center and I'd rather not have to take it there to get it repaired

2. I haven't take the time to take the shield off yet but I'm wondering if anyone knows what is behind it and if they think it's likely that I damaged whatever is behind it?

Thanks

 

[Goobers]

Yes, you can just put a service request, but instead say you want to buy the parts. It’s best to list the part name and number if you can and how many (for things like nuts/bolts) when applicable.

I had to replace the rear underbody panel on mine after half of it popped loose and folded under itself. Oh, looked up the invoice and it’s listed as rear fascia diffuser, not underbody panel.

Anyway, if you go to service.tesla.com, you should be able to sign up for a free service account or something, that allows you to look up LOTS of information, one of which is the electronics parts catalog (EPC).

As for what’s behind it, depends on the location. Obviously, the metal shield would cover the battery. The front and rear would cover the subframe and motor for that axle.

Honestly, I partly agree with other folks on the “incorrect” type of car… or at the very least incorrect application of the car in that condition. More rugged vehicle if you’re going to be aggressive over rough terrain. You have to be more cautious, lest you end up exactly in this situation, smashing up something potentially super expensive (aka, the battery).

 

[dpilot83]

Yes, you can just put a service request, but instead say you want to buy the parts. It’s best to list the part name and number if you can and how many (for things like nuts/bolts) when applicable.

I had to replace the rear underbody panel on mine after half of it popped loose and folded under itself. Oh, looked up the invoice and it’s listed as rear fascia diffuser, not underbody panel.

Anyway, if you go to service.tesla.com, you should be able to sign up for a free service account or something, that allows you to look up LOTS of information, one of which is the electronics parts catalog (EPC).

As for what’s behind it, depends on the location. Obviously, the metal shield would cover the battery. The front and rear would cover the subframe and motor for that axle.

Honestly, I partly agree with other folks on the “incorrect” type of car… or at the very least incorrect application of the car in that condition. More rugged vehicle if you’re going to be aggressive over rough terrain. You have to be more cautious, lest you end up exactly in this situation, smashing up something potentially super expensive (aka, the battery).

That’s great info. Thanks.

And I agree, anytime damage occurs, at the very least one can say one should have been more careful to be more appropriate for the conditions involved. I could have been more careful with the knowledge that the road has been recently graded and that it could have pulled rocks up.

 

[bobkart]

My understanding is that up to 29" diameter tires fit on the Y (255/50R19). That's one inch more than stock, so you'll gain half an inch of ground clearance. Could come in handy for the next 'clearance issue'.

Another thought is this much tougher skid plate: "Smash Me" Tesla Front Skid Plate for Model Y & Model 3

 

[FeelsCheapMan]

One of the following videos is going to depict a totally foreign driving environment for probably everyone who reads this thread. Many of you will say I should be driving a Jeep or an Expedition or a pickup or whatever that is more designed for these roads.

I'm getting off-track of the point of the thread but I have started threads like this before asking for help and it always devolves into my poor choice of vehicles rather than the issue at hand so I wanted to address it to the best of my ability first thing.

As farmers with a bunch of kids, and over the last three generations our family has driven these roads with a 1964 Ford Falcon, Ford LTD, 1988 Ford Taurus, 1999 Toyota Avalon, 1999 Buick Park Avenue, 2001 Toyota Sienna, 2005 Honda Civic, 2013 Honda Odyssey, 2023 Honda Odyssey and now this 2023 Model Y. When we're hauling kids and it's 30 miles to the town we frequently go to for school, church, shopping, etc, it's overall a lot more user friendly and economical to drive a lower cost family type vehicle:

• Kids can get in and out eaiser
• Parking in town is easier
• cost per mile to trade is cheaper
• cost per year to insure is cheaper
• cost per mile for fuel/electricity is lower
• generally the reliability on the commuter vehicles is better than the taller heavier vehicles leading to lower maintenance costs despite the adverse conditions

In this situation the road graders had just come through to smooth the roads out because of a recent weather event. They pulled up some rock chunks that were in the gravel when they put gravel on the road years ago. This is a common occurrence and it's always a judgement call when you're in that environment on whether to swerve to the side (where there are often a bunch more rocks) or keep rolling. Most everyone drives between 55 and 70 mph on these roads which probably sounds pretty crazy to those of you who are not used to these conditions but it's normal here. Once you get used to driving the roads and you figure out where the potholes are and so on, it's just another day.

In this case, I was going 70 when I saw this rock. I really thought I was going to clear it but I was wrong. It happens. It has happened to all of us in all of the vehicles that we have driven over the years.

On the main topic. First video is the road and the rock (sorry about the wind noise).

Second video is the damage to the vehicle.

My questions are:

1. Is there a way for me to buy parts from Tesla so I can replace that shield myself? I live almost 200 miles from the nearest service center and I'd rather not have to take it there to get it repaired

2. I haven't take the time to take the shield off yet but I'm wondering if anyone knows what is behind it and if they think it's likely that I damaged whatever is behind it?

Thanks

I literally just found this video because I wanted to look up the part number for my headlamp replacement:

(no need to watch it all if you don't want)

tl;dr you can find the part number here https://epc.tesla.com/en-US/catalogs and then contact Tesla

 

[JonB65]

Another vote for the skid plate from Mountain Pass. I put one on my 2021 MY a few years ago. I definitely believe it saved me some grief when I ran over a tire tread on the highway at 70 mph.

 

[mborkow]

I’m surprised a rock that size did that damage. I grew up on dirt roads like that and am a little disappointed that Model Y didn’t handle that better; I know all of the cars we had growing up would have (my 1984 Chevy Cavalier went through much worse unscathed). As long as you are replacing the skid plate, that Mountain Pass one looks like an upgrade. I’d get that one. Good luck.

 

[Iron]

Saw the vid of the damage. I'd examine the full length of the car to make sure there are no issues with the battery. If you can't jack it up enough, take it somewhere with a lift.

 

[dpilot83]

Saw the vid of the damage. I'd examine the full length of the car to make sure there are no issues with the battery. If you can't jack it up enough, take it somewhere with a lift.

Sorry, I don't get email updates showing that my threads have been replied to so I don't always check in here regularly. I did jack it up and look at the whole length before I took that video. There is no damage to the battery. Good thought though, thanks.

 

[dpilot83]

My understanding is that up to 29" diameter tires fit on the Y (255/50R19). That's one inch more than stock, so you'll gain half an inch of ground clearance. Could come in handy for the next 'clearance issue'.

Another thought is this much tougher skid plate: "Smash Me" Tesla Front Skid Plate for Model Y & Model 3

Thanks for that link. I think I'll do that.

 

[dpilot83]

Another vote for the skid plate from Mountain Pass. I put one on my 2021 MY a few years ago. I definitely believe it saved me some grief when I ran over a tire tread on the highway at 70 mph.

Good to hear first hand experience with it. Thanks.

 

[mborkow]

Another vote for the skid plate from Mountain Pass. I put one on my 2021 MY a few years ago. I definitely believe it saved me some grief when I ran over a tire tread on the highway at 70 mph.

Did you have the same issue others have reported where they needed a washer since the head of the bolt was slightly undersized for the holes?

 

[JonB65]

No, I had zero issues. My front plate from MPP fit perfectly.

 

[JonB65]

No, I had zero issues. My front plate from MPP fit perfectly.

Now that I'm thinking about it, I may have used washers. I likely did, since that would have made sense to me.

Just crawled under and checked. Yup, washers are there. No reason not to do that. Sorry for my previous answer.

 

[OxBrew]

Yeah, we push the limits on the dirt road to our cabin. Blew out 2 tires on rocks falling out of the embankment, while swerving to avoid high centering in seasonal ruts driving just a bit too fast for conditions (like 10mph when 5 would have been ideal).

I'm really tempted by the aluminum skid plate, but 1/8 inch just seems thin. I used to drive a VW TDI, and the skid plates for that were 1/4 inch, which would support the weight of the front end. Many times it saved us in icy ruts where we sledded down the hill with the front wheels off the ground.

Hmmmmm.

 

[kpanda17]

latest 4 piece protection set of plates on my wish list

 

[kpanda17]

this is comprehensive and covers you for most situations
like that you are using the MYP off road, its a beast
seems a lift kit is also good to have and get the Modern Spare kit

 

[Iron]

I'm really tempted by the aluminum skid plate, but 1/8 inch just seems thin. I used to drive a VW TDI, and the skid plates for that were 1/4 inch, which would support the weight of the front end. Many times it saved us in icy ruts where we sledded down the hill with the front wheels off the ground.

Haven't seen any for MY thicker than 1/8". Let me know if you find it. Still thicker than the plastic you have now.... and it's well, plastic. The coolant line covers seem to be worth the $89. Won't be paying $550 for the skid plate tho. There are many selling them for less.