Hansshow latest Frunk kit 17-20 M3

[alexeiw123]

Now when I open it it does a sort of reverse soft close where it starts to move before actually opening properly. It’s hard to explain really.

Sounds the same behaviour as the Hansshow trunk. On the screen UI, the boot opens then closes again before the actual tailgate has left the latch. I was hoping that if I could speed this up then it may avoid that quirk.

I have no idea about the commonality of parts between Hansshow and EVOffer, although I would say that I’ve bought quite a few things from China on Aliexpress, as well as stuff from the States that has clearly just been repackaged or even drop shipped from China, and I could easily believe that there is a small number of core manufacturers of the electronics, looms, etc and hundreds of businesses claiming that it’s their bespoke product.

I think that is most likely what is happening here. I've just looked over the EV Offer install instructions for the frunk and trunk. The frunk is absolutely identical to every detail. The Trunk doesn't have install instructions for EV offer Mark 3 yet, but I suspect it would be the same. The Hansshow instructions looked like the Mark 2.5 instructions but of course the hardware was different...

 

[Durzel]

Sounds the same behaviour as the Hansshow trunk. On the screen UI, the boot opens then closes again before the actual tailgate has left the latch. I was hoping that if I could speed this up then it may avoid that quirk.

Sorry I guess I wasn't being clear, I mean the physical boot delays opening in a sort of soft open procedure.

The in car display is like you've just explained there - it does an open and close animation on the display. I think that's the only way it can work really, because on pre-refresh cars without an OEM trunk lifter the car would not give owners the option to close it once it is open, since it ought to be impossible, so instead the Hansshow/EVOffer kit fakes it so that the car thinks the boot is closed, and intercepts the car "open" press to actually mean close, if that makes sense.

Apologies if that was all obvious to you already

I think that is most likely what is happening here. I've just looked over the EV Offer install instructions for the frunk and trunk. The frunk is absolutely identical to every detail. The Trunk doesn't have install instructions for EV offer Mark 3 yet, but I suspect it would be the same. The Hansshow instructions looked like the Mark 2.5 instructions but of course the hardware was different...

I tend to think the only differences are in support for the most part. Ray from EVOffer has been brilliant, but I'd be lying if I said I wasn't irritated at the fact that there's now like a hundred different variants for different model years, and the software updates make no mention at all of what has been fixed or added. I would not have known there was apparently a bug with the firmware I've got on mine and Tesla's 2022.20.x software (although I'm not experiencing the bug, which makes it even more confusing) if I hadn't randomly messaged him to ask a question.

It would be nice if these companies had release notes and some sort of mailing list so you can be kept in the loop on updates, etc.

 

[GlynG]

I did my trunk install today. All went well - the pull through to the boot was still tight but doable. Didn't use the silicon spray I had on hand and pulled it through with the plug on although it wasn't exactly easy. I actually went against the video instructions I've seen and got power from the 12V under the steering wheel, as shown in the instructions. I believe the one under the seat is a switched 12V, where the one from the front is permanent, hopefully leading to better experience when the car is in sleep. I was able to run the motor leads through bung holes on both sides and pulled through a string line to the foot sensor mounting point so the install will be trivial when that hardware arrives.

Quick question, does your boot open status report incorrectly with this version of hardware? The video on the website shows that you press the brake to get the UI to show the close button, however when I open my boot, the display briefly shows it open, then closed. From there, the display shows as the boot closed, even if it is left open. Pretty annoying behaviour, hopefully something that can be rectified if it's not just mine.

My pull through - I didn't even consider removing the plug as its so small - I used Hansshow's fish line was used and i just taped the plug to the fish line. I did release the two ties that holds the trunking to the boot lid and manipulated the sheath for a bit - Just one pull and the cable "fell" through the trunking - from starting the thread to having pulled the cable through was about 10 seconds.

I used the Penthouse 12v connector rather than a permanent live feed as I don't mind if there is a delay for the car waking up - I'm never in a rush to get anywhere as I'm retired. The biggest drawback using this "switched" supply (Though it isn't an issue for me) is any disconnection of power to the Hansshow control box means its reset - so you get the default speed and amount of lift which is speed 4 and fully opened - so if you set the height it opens lower or wanted speed 1 or 6 then a permanent live is needed to retain those settings, 4 and fully open is perfect for me.
On day of fitting the kit worked flawlessly - next day however i had a strange operation with it - Using the IOS app i could open the boot but the icon wouldn't drop back to its faded grey setting - so I couldn't close it - but if i went into "controls" and pressed the button the boot then closed, same with the cars screen - opened but couldn't close - i tried the reset of the car and a disconnect of power to the control box but it remained acting weird, So - A power down of the car and the control box, left the car 30 minutes then foot on the brake and connected power to the control box - and all working fine again - and has remained fully operational ever since.

Boot status - yes the same as yours. Shows the boot opening but graphic then shows it closing when it remains open - when i press the screen to close the graphic immediately jumps to fully open boot lid - then closes in line with the boot lid closing.

If Hansshow get back to you with a fix for this could you let me know as I have no faith they will automatically reach out to their customers, I would suspect this will just be a quick software update for the control box - when they get round to it - far too busy getting the next version ready i suspect.

 

[alexeiw123]

I used Hansshow's fish line was used and i just taped the plug to the fish line. I did release the two ties that holds the trunking to the boot lid and manipulated the sheath for a bit - Just one pull and the cable "fell" through the trunking - from starting the thread to having pulled the cable through was about 10 seconds.

OK that wasn't at all like mine. It took me maybe 15-20 minutes to pull through the fish line and pull back the lead with the connector. I also pulled through a string line with it so that if I need to do this again it's a bit easier.

When I got the lead back out the top it was clear that a single wire had gotten wrapped around the fish line, which would have added a lot of friction. it could have just been that.

The biggest drawback using this "switched" supply (Though it isn't an issue for me) is any disconnection of power to the Hansshow control box means its reset - so you get the default speed and amount of lift which is speed 4 and fully opened

That would annoy me! I'm thinking that I may run the frunk power supply down to the same location as the trunk, then have both supplied through a discrete switch below the A pillar so that I can easily turn them off if I ever need to, without removing any trimming.

Shows the boot opening but graphic then shows it closing when it remains open

Goodo, that means it's not just me on the Hansshow side. Hansshow said they've never seen it before. I would love to compare an EV Offer Mark 3.0 kit and a Hannshow V7 trunk kit to see if they are as identical as the frunk kits looked to be. I was tempted to try flashing the EV offer firmware as I suspect it's the same hardware however I don't have a Hansshow firmware to flash back with if it were to go pear shaped.

 

[tlr1000]

I can't say whether the most current versions from the two companies have the same or different hardware but about two years ago I compared both company's products at the time and there were significant differences at that time including the struts, wiring harnesses, EO having an additional control box installed in the trunk lid, main control box, latch motor, etc. I would suspect the hardware remains different between the two companies currently.

 

[alexeiw123]

I can't say whether the most current versions from the two companies have the same or different hardware but about two years ago I compared both company's products at the time and there were significant differences at that time including the struts, wiring harnesses, EO having an additional control box installed in the trunk lid, main control box, latch motor, etc. I would suspect the hardware remains different between the two companies currently.

 

[alexeiw123]

The latest Hansshow trunk kit also has a separate control box in the trunk lid and 3 section struts. Take a look at the photo below just prior to me installing (2019 model 3). I haven't seen equivalent images of the EO 2019 comparable kit but what I can say is the corresponding frunk kit from EO is identical - down to the control box, metal brackets, plugs and wire labelling.

 

[tlr1000]

Good info @alexeiw123. Funny how Hansshow is following EO's footsteps. I remember when HS said it was a bad idea for the kit to hook up to the Canbus and claimed it voided Tesla's warranty and then decided to also have their kit follow suit to add the Canbus adapter as well. EO also has a soft cover on their strut (maybe silicone) which Hansshow said was not a strong design but then when Tesla included the factory power trunk Tesla also used a silicone covered strut. Not sure if Hansshow copied that too. Regardless, even if the hardware was identical (which I don't think it is), makes sense to buy from the company with the best after-sales support including, troubleshooting, replacing defective parts, responding in a timely manner, and having consistent accessible firmware. When my friend's HS trunk kit died before the end of the warranty period, HS was quite responsive with trouble shooting tips but then when it was evident he needed replacement hardware, they ghosted him. He ended up replacing it with the EO kit. You can find many similar stories about people getting rid of the HS kit and replacing it with an EO kit but I have yet to hear the opposite. This gives me some reservation about whether the hardware is truly identical even if it looks that way.

 

[alexeiw123]

Regardless, even if the hardware was identical (which I don't think it is), makes sense to buy from the company with the best after-sales support including

Oh absolutely. Hindsight is 20/20 as they say - I didn't realise the differences when I ordered, just took some anecdotal advice that it had worked out well for others.

 

[GlynG]

@alexeiw123 - Your kit is bang on with my kit right down to the stubby but fat suction motor - other V7 kits seem to have the thin but quite long motor.
As for the EVOffer V Hansshow specs - I don't think it matters from purely a hardware point of view - provided everything is assembled and tested on production and is correct then the longevity of the system should be very similar and likewise for reliability, Electronics rarely fault nowadays and the struts seem robust, more than up to the job - to be honest I think either kit is superior to Tesla's system which only has one powered strut..

Installation I figure would be the only factor that could compromise the longevity, some installs are shocking and in my opinion quite unsafe electrically. A comment made in this post suggested drilling a hole for the left strut cable should be avoided and the grommet in the rear panel should be used - however, with the Hansshow kit having superb grommets on each cable - that have tails to maximise the grip on the cable to make it virtually impossible for water to permeate through It just has to be better than splicing the rear panel grommets, cutting off the Hansshow grommets and feeding the cable through because if the connectors can be pushed through the cut grommet then without sealing the whole thing after fitting it would surely become a venue for water ingress.
A leak via the Tesla grommets would result in a pond in the lower boot section, any water getting in via the drilled hole would simply drip away underneath the car as the area the hole is drilled into is below the left boot cubby area isn't sealed - you can see the floor below the car.

Because I have very low expectations from Hansshow regarding warranty I bought my kit via an authorised Hansshow retailer in the UK and paid by credit card - so any claim under the warranty period will be to the retailer - my contract is with them and credit card provides section 75 protection. An EV Offer kit cant be retailed in the UK by a trader - they have to be bought direct from abroad as it doesn't have the CE marking and because of this I'm not sure how I could enforce a warranty claim against a company abroad if I bought from them.

The weakest part of the system appears to be the suction motor on both trunk and frunk kits because of its function and I expect this is likely to be the first thing to fail - but easy to diagnose and replace.

 

[alexeiw123]

Well I've had success - Hansshow support worked with me to identify the problem and issued me an update file last night. On my brief tests this morning, the on screen behaviour is now fixed, although I haven't tested it in earnest.

Last night I also started the trunk install with my friend on his 2019 SR+. Compared to my performance, the install is a breeze. There is so much room available where the sub/amp is in my car, and this really handy blank plastic plate that we drilled to mount the suction motor and controller. I'm still struggling to find a tidy and secure way to mount it in that area of my car! I may need to fabricate a bracket I think.

Also to confirm, with the power from under the A pillar, the foot sensor and boot opens even while the car is asleep.

 

[GlynG]

Well I've had success - Hansshow support worked with me to identify the problem and issued me an update file last night. On my brief tests this morning, the on screen behaviour is now fixed, although I haven't tested it in earnest.

Last night I also started the trunk install with my friend on his 2019 SR+. Compared to my performance, the install is a breeze. There is so much room available where the sub/amp is in my car, and this really handy blank plastic plate that we drilled to mount the suction motor and controller. I'm still struggling to find a tidy and secure way to mount it in that area of my car! I may need to fabricate a bracket I think.

Also to confirm, with the power from under the A pillar, the foot sensor and boot opens even while the car is asleep.

Well done you - Hansshow responding - you obviously have a magic touch.

What is the title of the update file Hansshow sent you - I will then be able to request that file from them. also what did they identify as the issue?

How did you contact them - email or Whatsapp?

 

[alexeiw123]

Well done you - Hansshow responding - you obviously have a magic touch.

I think it's called relentless persistence!

What is the title of the update file Hansshow sent you - I will then be able to request that file from them. also what did they identify as the issue?

The firmware files were untitled (ready to flash as per instructions). The translated instructions provided are titled 'V7 YXW'.
They didn't communicate what the issue was or how they were able to isolate. The biggest piece of work for me was communicating that the issue was a firmware one and not a local installation issue, while dealing with a challenging language barrier. They were definitely willing to help, it's just a bit painful to work through.

I'll send you a direct message with what I was provided but I am hesitant to provide those to a wider audience as they did ask me to 'test' this firmware and they may well make further changes for a wider customer base.

How did you contact them - email or Whatsapp?

Whatsapp

 

[GlynG]

Thanks @alexeiw123 , I've printed the instructions and contacted Hansshow requesting the file. They are away for a couple of days and will hopefully get back to me.
Pleased the update sorts out the graphics.

I don't have WhatsApp and I'm a bit old so a bit wary of downloading new stuff as things seem to just do what they want, couldn't view the video - no idea why but I presume its showing the same as following the instructions?

Thanks mate.

 

[alexeiw123]

Thanks @alexeiw123 , I've printed the instructions and contacted Hansshow requesting the file. They are away for a couple of days and will hopefully get back to me.
Pleased the update sorts out the graphics.

I don't have WhatsApp and I'm a bit old so a bit wary of downloading new stuff as things seem to just do what they want, couldn't view the video - no idea why but I presume its showing the same as following the instructions?

Thanks mate.

No problem.

Yes the video is a demonstration of how to do the flags procedure explained in the file. Within what I shared to you is the two files required on the SD card for the firmware update too, so no need to wait for hansshow unless you'd prefer to.

This EV Offer video shows the exact same flashing procedure.

 

[Durzel]

A general bit of advice I'd give to anyone installing either kit is to take a photo of any identifying marks on the control boxes - e.g. what model number or version it is before installing it.

EVOffer has numerous different hardware revisions for the same cars at this point, and it can get very hard to track what version of kit you installed, and once installed these labels will typically be hidden. I presume Hansshow is the same.

 

[ecjanzen]

I did continue to try an get an answer - and eventually I did - though its gobbledegook - Here is the reply
"it works fine then doesn't have the problem ,if your frunk have same functional issues, you can add my what'sapp:+8613044219654, i will let the frunk engineer help you"
So that was clear as mud.
I did contact EV accessories - the business I bought the kit from - Nigel, Indicated he would elicit a reply from Hansshow but thinks the flashing light is simply an indication its powered - that was weeks ago and no reply. It all remains working fine. I can only conclude with Hansshow you are on your own - god help me if i need to claim on the warranty. ----------BUT --- did I listen to myself? - Nah - I also bought the Trunk powered system.

So, Trunk Version 7 - again, nothing like the version 7 I've seen on YouTube - my kit only requires one lead to fish through to the boot lid - and its a small plug that actually passed through the plastic trunking like throwing a sausage up an entry - I was braced for a pig of a time trying to wangle it through - but I pulled firmly and the cable jut flew through with just one tug - I did give the tubing a spray with WD40 Silicon prior to the pull - perhaps I got lucky.
Anyway - Inside the boot lid there is now a tiny control box this one cable connects to and from that control box are the three connections for the boot release button, the lock motor and the new button I fitted to close the boot, It was super easy. indeed the easiest part of the job. There is no connection now to the rear light clusters and the new close button has returned to the rectangle shape

I removed the rear bumper to do a proper install - I see some that pass the cables from the struts through the rear light electrical connection hole, also see the cable pushed through the gap between the bumper and the body of the car - and the cables brought in via the two holes in the back panel with grommets already in - which i guess is fine but I wanted those holes for my new rear reflectors in the bumper that illuminate and have sequential Indicators built in. The Model 3 has a grommet on the right hand side below the light cluster and to the right, quite low down and removing Tesla's grommet revealed a 20mm hole - which is the same size as the grommet fitted by Hansshow to the strut cables - the right strut cable didn't require the extension that is supplied in the kit because the control box is fitted to the right hand side just below the light cluster and its long enough to connect to the control box. The left hand side - my car had an indent in the steel in the same place as the grommet hole on the right - so i drilled a 20mm hole with a step drill and passed the cable through that. There is a video online that shows this method -

The suction motor is a small thing and mine located just below the boot lock catch - behind the carpet of the lower boot section.

The last two jobs were to connect power and connect to the CAN bus, I powered down the car on the screen and let it sit 5 minutes before i made any connections. 12V from the connection under the rear seat - next to the high voltage plug - which i pulled after powering down the car whilst i made that connection. Once power was connected i connected the CAN bus then re-plugged in the high voltage and pressed the brake pedal to wake the car back up.

This control box also has a flashing red light - and this kit too all worked first time out the box, no issues at all.

Huge help as I just got the trunk kit and same as yours only had one wire to fish through, instructions are crap and mine also has the little box to connect to which none of the YouTube vids have. I already have my bumper off and stuff so was going to call them tomorrow, but after seeing this post I know that im Not missing any wires and will run the small wire up to the lid. Thanks for posting this as you probably saved me a ton of time. I really didn’t want to put everything back together without this installed to wait for another wire.

 

[GlynG]

So pleased to have helped. It just shows you the value of these forums - people step in and help others by sharing their experience. The version numbers of these kits seem to change rapidly so online videos tend to be out of date.
It really is a shame that the instructions and pictures are so bad, cables not identifying what goes where - but they do have labels - mine had a long number printed on them and some Chinese text which didn't help and Hansshow are not particularly helpful when you contact them - I don't think they don't want to help but it's the language barrier - they would benefit if they engaged people to translate their installation instructions that are from the country they are selling their products to, for instance - they don't help themselves when their translation states (regarding the suction motor) "When the suction motor burns out the emergency release cable won't open the frunk" rather than "In the unlikely event the suction motor should fail there is a possibility the emergency release cable will not open the frunk" - plus - Knowing that surely they should provide with the kit their previous bracket and emergency release cable which is mechanically connected and will always work.

I posted this to inform others and in return I am hugely grateful to @alexeiw123 who persisted with Hansshow regarding the on-screen graphics being out of sync with the actual boot status and prompted them to create a software fix.

What surprises me is this is the UK and Ireland forum and yourself and alexeiw are both from Australia - Struth mate - a couple of bonza Bruce's on a pommie website. Gday.

 

[Icenks]

Hey guys. Late to the party. Just installed the frunk from hansshow and the strut motor starts pushing up the lid before the secondary latch releases, resulting in failure to open or bending the lid before it lets go. Wondering if anyone has experience with this.
Thabks

 

[GlynG]

Hey guys. Late to the party. Just installed the frunk from hansshow and the strut motor starts pushing up the lid before the secondary latch releases, resulting in failure to open or bending the lid before it lets go. Wondering if anyone has experience with this.
Thabks

The possibility here is the cable from the suction motor to the secondary latch hasn't been adjusted properly and has some slack in it. I assume your suction motor having just installed it is the small one with two cables coming from it - one cable goes to the secondary latch and the other cable is the emergency release.
When you installed the secondary latch cable, did you cut a Chanell in the insulation that surrounds the lock, so the cable runs flush? The little metal part that hooks onto the latch in lock - the bit you fit prior to putting the new spring onto - make sure that's seated properly and then loosen the two nuts on the cable - pull the cable tight ish - (no free play) then lock the nuts up.

It sounds like the motor is pulling the cable - the struts are energised by the suction motor - but because of slack it's not pulling quite enough to release the latch and because the cable has been pulled by the suction motor it then engages the struts to power up. Should be a really simple fix - it's a common mistake to make.

One last thing to check - ensure the little rubber bungs either side of the bonnet have been screwed fully in - they could be holding the bonnet a little high and making the closing a bit too tight - so the bonnet is always under pressure - and perhaps the latch is a bit too stiff for the suction motor to pull it.
Do all final adjustments to closing after your bonnet opens and closes properly.

If the two bungs are screwed all the way in, then release the two bolts that hold the lock - lift it a little and re-tighten - doesn't matter at this stage how high you lift the lock - providing the lock is central to the catch on the bonnet it will eliminate all possibility of bad initial adjustment - once its working you can do the final adjustments to your satisfaction.