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Front-rear camera touchscreen parking protection switch kit reservations

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Rick, did you get the reverse light connection completed for auto switching of the camera?

Yes, finished the connection yesterday. In my car the connector to the body controller with the reverse wire is behind a metal footplate in the passenger footwell. The photos shows the metal plate, the gray connector under it, and the plate removed.

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The plate has to be removed to access the connector and the carpet has to be pulled back to remove the plate. It's a bit of a PIA but not difficult to do, just some extra steps. The are also four purple wires, two with green stripes, one a kind of blue green, the other a lighter green. It's the light green one we want. But if you're not careful it's easy to make a wrong connection (which I did at first).

In the photo below the correct wire is in the slot just to the left of the probe.

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Heres a photo of the wire tap attached to the reverse light 12v wire (purple with lighter green strip)

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When the correct wire is connected to SW2 on the PCB it works as a toggle switch, which means that each time reverse is engaged it flips whatever camera happens to be on. This means that the front camera will be on every other time you engage reverse. Not what we want. It has to force to the rear camera every time it's engaged.

So I've emailed WhiteP85 to to see if reprogramming is possible but in the meantime I'm going to connect it to SW1 to see if that connection forces to rear. My emails with WhiteP85 about the functionality of SW1 and SW2 are a bit unclear, so just trying the two connections should answer the questions absent an immediate response from WhiteP85.
 
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Rick, any news on shipping dates for the kit, also for the front plate frame?

I'll email everyone tomorrow about this but this is where things stand. Completion of the kits has been delayed for a number of reasons. First the receptacles for the two camera and touchscreen plugs have not yet been delivered. The PCBs are otherwise complete and have been programmed, but for obvious reasons cannot be tested and shipped without the receptacles. Second, a number of the remotes had cold solder joints, which might lead to failure. All the solder joints are being inspected and, if needed, repaired. Both the remotes and receptacles were sourced in China so we're taking extra care to check them and ensure quality.

Finally, once the boards are complete we're going to put them through testing for a week to ensure that they perform to our standards. That's another necessary step we believe. So I'm guessing it will be two weeks at least before they ship. This is longer than we expected but we think the extra time is necessary to ensure quality.
 
So I've emailed WhiteP85 to to see if reprogramming is possible but in the meantime I'm going to connect it to SW1 to see if that connection forces to rear. My emails with WhiteP85 about the functionality of SW1 and SW2 are a bit unclear, so just trying the two connections should answer the questions absent an immediate response from WhiteP85.

I've finished the testing and it's conclusive. SW2 is a toggle and SW1 forces to rear.
 
Both SW1 and SW2 determine which camera image shows on the touch screen. Both are permanent switches, that is the camera image remains on the touchscreen until the switch is activated another time. The switch is a 12v signal from the backup light circuit, which is implemented by tapping the 12v lead under the passenger side kick panel (see an earlier post on that or the installation instructions now being modified) and running the tap to the drivers side and connecting it to SW1 or SW2 on the PCB.

SW1 always forces to rear. If the connection is made to SW1, when you put the car in reverse the rear camera is always displayed on the touchscreen and stays that way until the front camera is chosen with the remote or Homelink.

When SW2 is used each time you engage reverse the camera is switched between rear or front, which means half the time you'll see the front image when you're backing up. So SW1 is the sensible choice since it ensures the rear camera is always on when you back up. However, in situations when you want to see the front image you have to use the remote or Homelink (which just duplicates the remote) to switch to the front camera.

I'm working on a solution that will switch back and forth from rear camera to front camera in parallel parking situations. That will require some kind of 12v signal that's triggered when the car is put in drive. It will use SW2 and thus toggle the camera to the front when the car has been backed up then put into forward/drive.
 
Appreciate ll your efforts in finding a solution to this issue. Without a solution, I don't see the point of tapping into the reverse circuit to force to the rear camera, as you would need to use the remote or home link to then switch to the front camera. My preference is for automatic switching between the front and rear cameras; a seamless switching between camera inputs.
 
I don't think we need a +12v signal when the car is put into Drive -- what we need is a +12v signal when the reverse line (RL) goes low. I think this can be done with a simple normally closed relay on the RL, feeding +12v to SW2 when the relay closes when the RL goes low.

So regardless of any current camera setting (front or rear), the car goes into reverse and the RL to SW1 goes high, forcing the camera to the rear. At the same time, the normally closed relay opens, cutting +12V to SW2 (which I think should have no effect on the camera). When done backing up, the RL goes low, the relay closes, sending +12v to SW2 again to toggle to the front camera.

This is the behavior that I would prefer (always front except when backing), but I know other people want a different set up (always reverse, front camera toggle on demand). I think for those people, there is no automatic solution that will accomplish that, since it is truly "on demand". But if the camera switches SW1 and SW2 work like I think they do, a simple relay (or MOSFET) will do the trick for people like me.

I am not an electrical engineer, but more of an electronic hobbyist, so please feel free to correct me if I'm wrong.