You can install our site as a web app on your iOS device by utilizing the Add to Home Screen feature in Safari. Please see this thread for more details on this.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
Try this thread.Where’s the sticky for the recommended outlet brands. Having trouble locating.
I haven’t heard anything.Are there any rumors of new wall chargers coming out? We're selling out house and the new owners want my chargers. I've got to pick up two for the new house. There's a 20A dryer plug in there so I could get by if there's any rumors of something coming in the next couple of months.
This has been discussed so much. You know that's not code compliant, right? That is only up to a rating of 55A. You can't use that cable for a full 60A rated circuit.4 feet of 6/2 Romex and a $17 60 amp breaker from Home Depot,
No, following National Electric Code is what this is--not voltage drop calculations.I think there is a thing called voltage drop that comes into play, so the shorter a cable you use the less diameter you need. It's the total resistance you are worried about.
No, that's not how that is done. The requirement from electric code says this. There are continuous loads and non continuous loads.And if it's good enough for 55A and I never pull more than 48A I'm golden.
+1This kind of drives me crazy why this exact mistake keeps coming up so often. Someone might as well grab 14 gauge wire and say they are going to use it for a 50A circuit. NO!! That is also wrong and doesn't meet the rating for that circuit level. It's the exact same thing.
It's not very hard to see why this mistake gets made. Most electricians (and inspectors) don't study and memorize the code, they just apply a bunch of rules they've learned over the years. One of those things they "know" is that 60a circuits need 6AWG, which for most applications is true. So they apply that to an EVSE where it's not true. Worse, their installs get approved by inspectors, or they hear of installs that are approved, and it reinforces their "knowledge".This kind of drives me crazy why this exact mistake keeps coming up so often. Someone might as well grab 14 gauge wire and say they are going to use it for a 50A circuit. NO!! That is also wrong and doesn't meet the rating for that circuit level. It's the exact same thing.
I know some of them have picked up bad habits or wrong ideas, but that should be very few. And complying with the rated ampacities should be really straightforward.It's not very hard to see why this mistake gets made. Most electricians (and inspectors) don't study and memorize the code, they just apply a bunch of rules they've learned over the years.
...except it's not. It simply IS NOT. This is not true. 6 gauge NM-B simply does not meet a rating of a 60A circuit, ever.One of those things they "know" is that 60a circuits need 6AWG, which for most applications is true.
But that's not true. This is what is making me crazy. It isn't anything specific to an EVSE. It has nothing to do with that. If someone had some other big piece of equipment, like a kiln or cement mixer or a giant clothes dryer or welder or whatever, and it required a 60A circuit, you STILL could not use 6 gauge NM-B. It's still wrong and has nothing to do with EVSEs.So they apply that to an EVSE where it's not true.
Yeah. This is frustrating. This mistake is so unfortunately pervasive that it has gotten into a lot of inspectors' heads too.Worse, their installs get approved by inspectors, or they hear of installs that are approved, and it reinforces their "knowledge".
Sigh. Yes, this is true. But I would hate for people to unfortunately get caught in a situation where an electricity and that inspector incorrectly approves this, but then several years later things need to get inspected for some other reason, and a different inspector gets it correct and fails it.You would probably have a hard time convincing them, since from their POV, if the inspector approves, that's what matters.
Total resistance matters in terms of overall efficiency, like how much energy is lost to Joule heating (corresponding to the voltage drop). In this case we're more concerned about preventing electrical fires or failure, so what actually matters is the resistance per unit length. You wouldn't want an undersized wire in your system even though it was only an inch long. That's the inch that's more likely to melt or cause a fire.I think there is a thing called voltage drop that comes into play, so the shorter a cable you use the less diameter you need. It's the total resistance you are worried about. And if it's good enough for 55A and I never pull more than 48A I'm golden.
55a breakers don't exist, but that doesn't really matter because the breaker is technically allowed to be 60a. The problem is that the wall connector can't be configured for 44a charging. The best you can do is use a 50a breaker and configure for 40a charging. If you're suggesting changing the car to charge at 44a, that doesn't satisfy code, and given that the car is prone to forget that setting when you least expect it, and it wouldn't stop some other car from plugging in and charging at 48a, isn't a good way to go anyway.Total resistance matters in terms of overall efficiency, like how much energy is lost to Joule heating (corresponding to the voltage drop). In this case we're more concerned about preventing electrical fires or failure, so what actually matters is the resistance per unit length. You wouldn't want an undersized wire in your system even though it was only an inch long. That's the inch that's more likely to melt or cause a fire.
Anyhow, 6 gauge should be good for 44A continuous. I'd limit your charging current to that to be safer. You might also change that 60A breaker to 55A for proper protection.
So true. And its so easy to look up an ampacity table to determine this:...except it's not. It simply IS NOT. This is not true. 6 gauge NM-B simply does not meet a rating of a 60A circuit, ever.
I believe you’re referring to the “upsizing rule” which comes with a lot of caveats. You’ll find that reading the appropriate NEC section or following discussions on sources like Mike Holt’s Forum can be very enlightening.55a breakers don't exist, but that doesn't really matter because the breaker is technically allowed to be 60a.
He did immediately explain those details after that first sentence.I believe you’re referring to the “upsizing rule” which comes with a lot of caveats. You’ll find that reading the appropriate NEC section or following discussions on sources like Mike Holt’s Forum can be very enlightening.
Yes, pretty uncommon. I have seen one kind of EVSE that gives very fine granularity like that of setting the amp level it runs at very specifically, and I guess there may be others, but it's really rare. So that is what we are talking about--if you can actually use a real setting in the device to run at a 44A maximum output, then it will only need a 55A rated circuit, and that is the only way this works. But that is really obscure for people to find EVSEs that can do that.I found 55A breakers with a search, but perhaps they're less common. My (non Tesla) EVSE lets me set the the available current by the Amp. Anyhow, I'll take your word for it.
I assume OP used this 6/2 NM-B (or similar) which is not recommended with a wall connector and 60 amp breaker it looks like? Any recommendation on what should be used instead? Should it be a 4/2 or a 4/3 type wire? Something like this or may be this (cheaper but OOS)? I just want to make sure the guy I am going to hire to install the wall connector knows this. Thanks!This has been discussed so much. You know that's not code compliant, right? That is only up to a rating of 55A. You can't use that cable for a full 60A rated circuit.