Dilemma: bought both wall charger and mobile charger...

[Crusader1]

Thx- i think the #6 gauge was because they stock those spools for all there charger jobs. If i insisted on #4 which i could have they would have had to purchase it from supplier in a spool and the extra probably would have sat unused. I am charging at 38mph so not sure it would have added more since my distance is about 25 feet breaker to charger.

 

[BulldogsRus]

Update: So I bought the mobile kit with the extra 240v charger which allows me to charge at work, but at 32A it states it charges at 19 miles an hour and 203V, is that normal? This is a 2018 100d.

 

[airborne spoon]

DIY is always cheaper than paying someone to do it.

I installed my HPWC at my moms house for when i visit and used 3 AWG for about 25 ft, so wire, conduit, and the breaker was about $400 and it took me about 3 hours to install the damn thing. Hardest part was just getting the wires to bend for getting into the breaker and the HPWC connection that thick stuff is pretty damn stiff.

 

[beatle]

Update: So I bought the mobile kit with the extra 240v charger which allows me to charge at work, but at 32A it states it charges at 19 miles an hour and 203V, is that normal? This is a 2018 100d.

Sounds about right, but I have not used the "miles per hour" metric in years. If you change your car's battery display to a percentage instead, you can see how many kw you're pulling. You should be just above 6kw if you're charging at 32A @ 203v.

 

[aerodyne]

Sounds about right, but I have not used the "miles per hour" metric in years. If you change your car's battery display to a percentage instead, you can see how many kw you're pulling. You should be just above 6kw if you're charging at 32A @ 203v.

Correct, set to car to percentage. But Teslafi reports both power 7Kw and 27 mph charging, so that number is readily available.

 

[Whoze]

Assuming your dryer is running on a 30A circuit, if you used some of the offered solutions that allow you to use the existing 240V line, would 24A home charging be sufficient?


I disagree the quote would remain $1500; I imagine a significant portion of the bid is the materials cost for 30' of wire.

That said, I agree with the thought process that paying for a licensed electrician to sign off on a new run (whether you physically run the wire or pay the electrician to do so) with 60A-circuit-capable wiring (assuming you have the 48A wall charger...or maybe you go even larger if you investigate putting in a garage subpanel!) will probably still be useful for you in the future

So my company allows for the ability to use a 240v plug onsite, as of now I'm using the 110v charger plug in my garage with the hardwired (not plug-in adapter) 110v mobile charger, and bought the $400 wall charger last month. My electrician wants to charge me $1500 to run a 240v line from the other side of my house to the garage (30'). What's frustrating is that my dryer is inside sharing the same wall as where it would be installed in my garage. I then found the option to buy a NeoCharge but that scenario assumes that both the EV and dryer are in your garage. In a perfect world I wouldn't need to spend all this money to charge at 240v for both home/office if I could just use the new $230 mobile charger (w/both 5-15 & 14-50 adapters), but I assume it's illegal to run that through said wall. I don't want to leave the door to the garage open overnight as it's cold in the garage this time of year.

I assume even if I had a 240v outlet installed in the garage he's still gonna charge me $1500, so my only savings would be returning the $400 wall charger. I'm kinda nervous to try and do this myself tbh, I'm wary of doing anything at the breaker box.

Has anyone figured out a workaround to something like this?

Home Depot prices: $1.48 a foot for thhn 6 gauge. So $180 for 4 x 30 ft. $10-12 per 10 ft PVC conduit is $30-36, or $20 per 10 ft metal conduit is $60 for 30 ft. 60 amp breaker $16-20, but likely a 50 amp GCFI breaker at $140. That totals out at $410 in materials.
My suggestion is to get a handyman familiar with electrical work to do the job, and have he made a work guarantee that it will pass a code inspection. You can always hire an electrician to do the final inspection (connecting both ends as it were). My experience has been that handyman do better and cleaner work. Electricians just hack and slash anything that is not electrical. Then you have to repair all the holes afterwards.

 

[dafish]

I'd do one of three things. Cause I could:

* Run 4-4-4 or 6-6-6 SER, whichever I could find cheaply enough. Doesn't need to be in conduit, have the utility shut power off to house for a few minutes (usually free) and drop the wire into the panel and connect it whatever breaker size you've elected. Lets say 60 amp. turn breaker off and power back up the house. Push cable up the wall, I assume you've a drill, punch through, and mount the wall charger. Commission.

* if wire cost was a hassle I'd run THHN, put it on PVC conduit (Cost and Hassle adds up) and repeat as above.

* Else I'd use a builders box on the wall that had the dryer plug. 30 amps is plenty for most folks. Use this and move on w/it AB Switch

I'd still install the WC and keep the mobile connector in my car, but that's me.

Now consider this: I don't worry about power at all. I STILL don't screw around w/the mains, for it ain't worth dying over. Are you good enough for this stuff? Lotta guys in today's just weren't raised in a power tool/DIY kind of world. The wise man knows his limits and knows when to back off. Don't know you, not saying a thing, but I don't want to you get killed either.

 

[Whoze]

I'd do one of three things. Cause I could:

* Run 4-4-4 or 6-6-6 SER, whichever I could find cheaply enough. Doesn't need to be in conduit, have the utility shut power off to house for a few minutes (usually free) and drop the wire into the panel and connect it whatever breaker size you've elected. Lets say 60 amp. turn breaker off and power back up the house. Push cable up the wall, I assume you've a drill, punch through, and mount the wall charger. Commission.

* if wire cost was a hassle I'd run THHN, put it on PVC conduit (Cost and Hassle adds up) and repeat as above.

* Else I'd use a builders box on the wall that had the dryer plug. 30 amps is plenty for most folks. Use this and move on w/it AB Switch

I'd still install the WC and keep the mobile connector in my car, but that's me.

Now consider this: I don't worry about power at all. I STILL don't screw around w/the mains, for it ain't worth dying over. Are you good enough for this stuff? Lotta guys in today's just weren't raised in a power tool/DIY kind of world. The wise man knows his limits and knows when to back off. Don't know you, not saying a thing, but I don't want to you get killed either.

Rewired my previous house, so I am comfortable with electrical work. I always get an electrician to sign off my work before the inspection. My dryer has a Bryant 14-50, but it's too far away unless I run an expensive extension cable that has a 14-60 on the other end. It would be easier to install a new 14-50 outlet inside with a 40 amp GFCI and have the mobile charger cable run through a hole to the outside. That keeps all the vitals weatherproof with just the charger cable covered but exposed. My TM3 only allows 7kW max charge anyways. When the garage rebuild is complete, the M3 will live inside. When (IF) the Cybertruck ever materializes, I can install the external WC as that beast is never going to fit inside the garage! Now if Tesla drops the charger price back down, that would change everything!