Also if your looking for LTE upgrade, the reman units come with LTE. Early on we purchased a screen for customer, it was $1200.
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Also if your looking for LTE upgrade, the reman units come with LTE. Early on we purchased a screen for customer, it was $1200.
Solarman004
Member
Chalk up another satisfied customer of Tony's.
I got my upgraded eMMC card back today for my MCU1 MX 75D. Got the car put back together and unlike my carburetor rebuilding days, I didn't end up with a dozen leftover parts or screws. Everything tested as good except Passive Entry is permanently off whether I have the setting On or Off. The car is loading a software update right now, so we'll see if the issue clears up. All other car settings were still set up as they were when I removed the MCU.
Some observations:
1. I didn't catch this when removing the MCU, but when reinstalling today, I noticed two USB sockets on the back of the MCU, but only one USB wire behind the dash. I went back and watched Tony and David's video again, as well as another MCU removal video from Electrified Garage. Both videos were on the Model S. Both had 2 USB cables connected to the MCU. I searched for 10 minutes in the MCU opening in the dash and concluded that there is only one cable in this car. One socket was unlabeled, and the other was labeled "USB 2". I connected to the one I assume is USB 1. After powering up, I checked all USB ports in the car and they all worked. So I now believe that the USB 2 socket is possibly to allow commonality of parts with the MS, but the MX (at least my version) only uses one of the ports.
2. Believe it or not, the part that gave me the most trouble on reassembly was the rubber gasket around the frunk tub. I had removed the frunk to disconnect the battery. The trick that finally worked for me was to remove again the plastic covers around the frunk and the cloth frunk liner. I finally got the gasket on the plastic tub, then reinserted the liner and tucked it under the gasket. Finally the plastic covers went back on. I'd be interested in hearing if there is an easier solution.
3. I replaced the 12 V battery as preventative maintenance, even though I had no indications of impending failure. The car is a 2016 with 56,000+ miles. I had the battery tested and indicated marginal to weak reserve capacity. I'll keep it as an emergency spare because they aren't available at any auto parts store, but I'm glad I changed it out.
4. During the test drive I tried to load Tesla Waze on the web app. Ever since the web update pushed out in early 2019, I think, I haven't been able to get any pages to load. It did load today, but very slowly. So I'm seeing some improvement, but I think the only way I'll ever see "normal" web access again is with an upgrade to MCU2. Except for Waze, I never used the web, so this isn't a huge loss.
5. One pleasant surprise. This was the first time I've removed the frunk and discovered I have the large HEPA filter behind the frunk tub, even though this car does not have PUP or Bioweapon Defense mode. It was built at a time that Tesla was struggling with MX production so it's likely they were cranking out a number of similar configurations and just changed the software.
I'll echo what others have said about Tony's customer service. I was extremely pleased. All email questions were answered promptly, he kept me informed of the upgrade progress, and the turn-around was only 3 days plus shipping time to-from Colorado.
I got my upgraded eMMC card back today for my MCU1 MX 75D. Got the car put back together and unlike my carburetor rebuilding days, I didn't end up with a dozen leftover parts or screws. Everything tested as good except Passive Entry is permanently off whether I have the setting On or Off. The car is loading a software update right now, so we'll see if the issue clears up. All other car settings were still set up as they were when I removed the MCU.
Some observations:
1. I didn't catch this when removing the MCU, but when reinstalling today, I noticed two USB sockets on the back of the MCU, but only one USB wire behind the dash. I went back and watched Tony and David's video again, as well as another MCU removal video from Electrified Garage. Both videos were on the Model S. Both had 2 USB cables connected to the MCU. I searched for 10 minutes in the MCU opening in the dash and concluded that there is only one cable in this car. One socket was unlabeled, and the other was labeled "USB 2". I connected to the one I assume is USB 1. After powering up, I checked all USB ports in the car and they all worked. So I now believe that the USB 2 socket is possibly to allow commonality of parts with the MS, but the MX (at least my version) only uses one of the ports.
2. Believe it or not, the part that gave me the most trouble on reassembly was the rubber gasket around the frunk tub. I had removed the frunk to disconnect the battery. The trick that finally worked for me was to remove again the plastic covers around the frunk and the cloth frunk liner. I finally got the gasket on the plastic tub, then reinserted the liner and tucked it under the gasket. Finally the plastic covers went back on. I'd be interested in hearing if there is an easier solution.
3. I replaced the 12 V battery as preventative maintenance, even though I had no indications of impending failure. The car is a 2016 with 56,000+ miles. I had the battery tested and indicated marginal to weak reserve capacity. I'll keep it as an emergency spare because they aren't available at any auto parts store, but I'm glad I changed it out.
4. During the test drive I tried to load Tesla Waze on the web app. Ever since the web update pushed out in early 2019, I think, I haven't been able to get any pages to load. It did load today, but very slowly. So I'm seeing some improvement, but I think the only way I'll ever see "normal" web access again is with an upgrade to MCU2. Except for Waze, I never used the web, so this isn't a huge loss.
5. One pleasant surprise. This was the first time I've removed the frunk and discovered I have the large HEPA filter behind the frunk tub, even though this car does not have PUP or Bioweapon Defense mode. It was built at a time that Tesla was struggling with MX production so it's likely they were cranking out a number of similar configurations and just changed the software.
I'll echo what others have said about Tony's customer service. I was extremely pleased. All email questions were answered promptly, he kept me informed of the upgrade progress, and the turn-around was only 3 days plus shipping time to-from Colorado.
1 Oh yea, X has a distribution for the usb's just 1 on the mcu
2. Gasket not needed to be removed in order to take the Frunk tub out.
3. Good idea, you do typically get warning. We had a 16 shooting acid out of the vent tube a while back.... No warning
Standard time is 5 days, sometimes some may get finished faster so we dont hang on to them.
Glad to be of service!
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whitex
Well-Known Member
You might not need to remove that gasket, but if you do, there is a trick with a powered screw driver which I picked up from a ranger which works in less than a minute to tuck all the lining in all around the tub. I saw that trick in a few videos on youtube since, can't find it right now but only looked briefly.
A little anecdote. Apple’s “butterfly” mechanism on some of their laptop keyboards has proven to be fragile. My 2017 MacBook Pro began to show signs of damage when the “T” key broke a couple of months ago. I ordered and installed a replacement, but then the “E” key fell off, and the “S” key started repeating. Apple has a keyboard replacement program that recognizes their responsibility for their design flaw and repairs/replaces keyboards for free. I took my laptop to the Apple Store on Tuesday afternoon. They had a Genius Bar set up in the parking garage, took my laptop and told me it would take about a week to replace. I agreed, reluctantly, to be without my laptop for a week. I received an email yesterday that they’d received it for repair and another a few hours later stating that it was replaced and on its way back to me at my home. They had overnighted it to Austin, where a tech had repaired it, and have overnighted it back. Less than 48 hours will have passed and I’ll have a new keyboard.
This is how you act responsibly when you have a design flaw in your products.
This is how you act responsibly when you have a design flaw in your products.
whitex
Well-Known Member
Coincidence? Or brand competition? I can't help but notice this particular failure pattern prevents you from typing "TESLA", but you can still type "APPLE".
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thecloud
As rhythm raced inside, the ship came alive
No, without an "E", you could only type "APPL". Well, technically you could also type "AAPL", which might be more important.Coincidence? Or brand competition? I can't help but notice this particular failure pattern prevents you from typing "TESLA", but you can still type "APPLE".
Edit: almost forgot, this is TMC and so I need to stay on topic with some eMMC failure related content! As of now, my 2014 P85 is fortunately not experiencing any symptoms of MCU1 failure. However, it's really good to know that @EV-Fixme is there if (or when) it happens to me.
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whitex
Well-Known Member
JWood
Member
"Chalk up another satisfied customer of Tony's."
Add me to the list. Just put my 2015 S85 back together after getting the emmc chip replaced at EV-Fixme. In my case just selecting the Trip menu item on the screen would reboot the MCU. I have only driven the car four times but so far everything seems to be working now. My Passive entry and Traction control menu sliders are both on but not changeable though I am fairly certain they were like that before. I did not disconnect the 12 volt battery but just pulled the MCU fuse behind the right forward side kick panel when removing and reinstalling the MCU. I reinstalled the MCU while waiting on the emmc replacement and the car only lost 11 miles of range while sitting in the garage for 2 weeks. I also put the windows up while waiting as I was sanding on another project. Did not have any issues with car while waiting but it would take several minutes to wake up when I checked on it. Tony got emmc replaced in three days but mail was slower coming back and I had to wait 4 days to work on the car again. I would recommend that you use tape to hold the two washers at the top of the MCU so they don't fall down into hell when you take the screws out. Also be careful when taking the dash trim panels out as I managed to chip the plastic trim next to the glove box button. Won't be driving much this week as still working from home but will post any updates later.
Add me to the list. Just put my 2015 S85 back together after getting the emmc chip replaced at EV-Fixme. In my case just selecting the Trip menu item on the screen would reboot the MCU. I have only driven the car four times but so far everything seems to be working now. My Passive entry and Traction control menu sliders are both on but not changeable though I am fairly certain they were like that before. I did not disconnect the 12 volt battery but just pulled the MCU fuse behind the right forward side kick panel when removing and reinstalling the MCU. I reinstalled the MCU while waiting on the emmc replacement and the car only lost 11 miles of range while sitting in the garage for 2 weeks. I also put the windows up while waiting as I was sanding on another project. Did not have any issues with car while waiting but it would take several minutes to wake up when I checked on it. Tony got emmc replaced in three days but mail was slower coming back and I had to wait 4 days to work on the car again. I would recommend that you use tape to hold the two washers at the top of the MCU so they don't fall down into hell when you take the screws out. Also be careful when taking the dash trim panels out as I managed to chip the plastic trim next to the glove box button. Won't be driving much this week as still working from home but will post any updates later.
No CO2
Member
I just bought a 2013 MS with 100,000 miles on it.
How do I know, or how can I check, if this eMMC repair has already been completed?
Great info and thread! Thanks!
How do I know, or how can I check, if this eMMC repair has already been completed?
Great info and thread! Thanks!
Do you have 3G or LTE, 3G typically means the eMMC is real old. Also watch for the signs on the first post in this thread. All the important info is updated on the first post so you dont have to read all 43 pages.
You may need a factory reset , we try and save all the data, however sometimes corruption is not repairable and gets copied over, if you cant toggle in a few days, then move your seat with your saved position, and do a factory reset, sometimes a few additional automatic reboots over the next few days are normal if corruption is really bad. Let us know if anything still feels werid.
I'll have to add some details to NOT pry on the edge of the dash trims.
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Important note, make sure to follow all the directions carefully and let us know if anything seems different or not clear (so we can update the instructions), Some people have had minor damages or got stuck out of the car for a bit when not following all the steps. Also some boards have shown up with less protection than they should have, almost all survived except for 1. In that case the owner had to buy a new board, and we were able to recover their data but Tegra board is still not repaired as we are trying to find the damage.
No CO2
Member
I have LTE. Since that is the case, is there a way to know when this was upgraded?
Thank you. I am in San Diego, so I would easily drive to you, if needed.
Thank you. I am in San Diego, so I would easily drive to you, if needed.
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2013 with LTE means the car was paid LTE upgrade by previous owner, or replacement was with the new/refurb mcu. We list lots of signs of failure on the first post. Those are good to watch for. You can try asking Tesla, if original they likely cant see the number of writes. If replaced they should be able to.
Akikiki
A'-Lo-HA ! y'all
@No CO2, Have your registered your car with Tesla yet? Is it under your tesla.com account? Is it in the app? If you have registered it, if they know you now as the owner, you might try driving over to a SC in your area. Take some donuts with you. And ask them if they will run a history on your car that you just bought for you. They might do it. Its not a 100% certainty, but worth the effort. The history might tell you when LTE was added, and it if was separate from MCU replacement. If it lists no separate item, then it was likely part of a MCU replacement. Of course if Tesla did the MCU replacement, it too would be in the history. Just another clue in the archaeological dig to find out about your car.
No CO2
Member
@Akikiki Thank you. I showed up at my local SC this morning with a 6 pack of Heineken beer. No luck getting a full printout, but they told me that the full MCU assembly was replaced in December, 2017, and the screen was replaced in June 2018 (meaning that the screen only lasted 6 months).
@EV-Fixme Thanks. I now know that the eMMC is 2-1/2 years old, and I will look for the symptoms as you described.
@EV-Fixme Thanks. I now know that the eMMC is 2-1/2 years old, and I will look for the symptoms as you described.
I remember when they said revision C of the drive units wouldn't break...... They are up to revision Q now.
Thefloorislava
Member
Hi there knight owl! I see you're in colorado springs as well.... have you found anyone to do an eMMC repair in colorado besides tesla service center? I think mine is going bad :-(
Hi, eMMC repair is pretty limited. We service the whole US. Did'nt you rebuild your car from salvage? You seem very capable and our DIY service may be a great fit for you. Our slowest turn around is 5 working days or less, excluding shipping. Car remains mostly operable, 1st post has all the details so you dont need to read 43 pages.
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