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Charging Solutions for 120V service

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If you have a 120v receptacle I suggest asking an electrician to convert it from a nema 5-15 or 5-20 (120v) to a Nema 6-15 or 6-20 (240v)utilizing existing wiring. This should cost less than $100 and can be done in most homes with no added electrical service.

Avoid telling the electrician you are purchasing a Tesla.
 
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Your AC may only use 28-30 amps continous, but it may use over twice that in surge to start.

Homeowners tend to look at a best case scenario for putting as much as possible in place, while electricians and code wants to look at the worst case possible and protect that from burning down your house and neighborhood.

Tesla on a 240V line flows tremendous amounts of current for very long periods of time. If it is drawing 40 amps, your home draws it's normal load, the dish washer or washing machine kicks on and your refrigerator surges to a start...One of your old circuit brakers falis...

Most if not all circuit breakers have a delay built in (indeed, older breakers are thermal in nature, so the delay is unavoidable), so they won't trip due to the surge of a motor starting. I can't tell which breaker is in his photo, but all the Square D curves I was looking at won't trip instantly on less than 8x their rated value. And will take more than 10 seconds even at twice the rated value. If he's drawing 70 A total and the fridge turns on, drawing 50 A for a half second and then dropping to 10 A, his 100 A main breaker won't trip.
 
I would highly recommend at least upping to the 5-20 since you have a 20A breaker already available. It seems like a very small increase, but especially in the cold you will see an outsize improvement in real-world miles added. I haven't seen the videos you've mentioned that discussed cold-weather charging, but speaking from experience if you have a car that's cold-soaked (that has sat in below-freezing weather for several hours), you can then see several hours of charging where you gain absolutely nothing @ 12A. Jumping to the 20A breaker and 16A load makes a big real-world difference.

All that said, any 240V outlet is a much better option if you can swing it.
 
Hi, here's some photos of the breakers for reference. I'll check this again after work today with some more thoughts.

The third picture on slot 7 on the left side is the 20A breaker that corresponds to the "whole house" fan I will remove to make room for a 120V 30A or 20A circuit. The run will be about 5 feet to the outside for the outlet.

View attachment 564130 View attachment 564131View attachment 564134 View attachment 564136

What is slot 5 powering? Is that a 240v breaker?
 
I’ll check the labels later. As far as I know the only thing 240 on my panel is the central air. My heat is a steam boiler that is gas powered but requires electricity to operate, it runs around 10 amps or less according to the labels.

Does anyone know anything about a federal rebate or credit? I heard something on Reddit about a credit up to 30% off up to $1000 or something like that but requires an installation in calendar year 2020 and 2021 and later is not guaranteed. But I can’t seem to find a bunch of info about it. That seems like that would help me cover the cost to upgrade the panel and probably put in a 14-30 outlet. I think I would have to upgrade my amperage service to 200A if I went for a 14-50 which also seems like overkill for my needs.

Edit - Line 5 is “washroom outlets” - note I have a gas dryer and water heater.
 
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Thanks.

I found my PDF of my price quote. It basically says:

100 amp panel replacement:
Removal of existing panels and breakers
Install new 100 amp 30 circuit panel box
Install and label all new breakers
Update grounding system
Install 20 amp circuit to exterior of garage with 6-20 outlet
Permit costs not included

$1915

I’m going to see if we can make it a 14-30 with a new panel and have it run outside the front of the house (which would be hidden since there’s a flower bed) and it should cut costs significantly as it would be a much faster job with less wiring.

$1915 - 30% from federal credit = $1340
$1340 - $500 from state rebate = $840

Again this would need an update for the 14-30 or 14-50, possible amperage increase to 150 or 200 amps, and the exterior conduit run instead of through walls and over the garage.

But that would also lock me into using the outlet plus MC all the time - there is no room there for the HPWC and I wouldn’t want the HPWC visible from the street anyway.

I was thinking the 14-30/50 on the side of the house would allow me to at some point install a Tesla Wall Connector and use an appliance pigtail like for an oven and connect it to the outlet instead of hardwiring it.
 
Why not go to a 200A panel ?

Mostly to keep costs lower. I have requested an estimate with costs involved with going from the original estimate of a new 20A circuit run with 6-20 outlet compared to a 14-30 or14-50, and going from our current 100A to 150/200A depending on cost.

Will report in once I get my updated estimates.

Honestly, a 6-20 circuit would provide me with 3.84 kWh, with an estimated 10% efficiency loss, that would be 3.45 kWh. At a 250 Wh-Mi, that would be nearly 14 miles of range per hour. A 300 Wh-Mi would still be 11.5 miles range per hour. My whole commute is covered in 2 hours. Less than 21 hours for a fully charge if I was empty.

Again I have gas appliances - heat, hot water, stove, range - I don’t have any big energy hogs aside from the central air, which is also only used in May through September. I seem to have plenty of available amperage.

I have to figure out a way to see if my garage outlets are 20A already with just a 5-15 socket on the end. I’ll have to take the cover off and see the gauge of the wiring.
 
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Looks like a 120v tandem breaker, not 240.

Possible to use single slot 240v breaker similar to the tandem breaker?

ge-2-pole-breakers-thqp220-64_145.jpg
 
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Possible to use single slot 240v breaker similar to the tandem breaker?

ge-2-pole-breakers-thqp220-64_145.jpg
I truly don’t know. They didn’t seem to suggest this and the guys have done work for me over the years, I’m wondering if it truly is not an option. I asked them about adding a third subpanel - physically there is room on the wall to mount it - but I’m not sure on the cost is worth it - I feel like they threw out around $750 for the new subpanel and reconfigured panels vs. $1250 for the new panel as a whole. Probably would just go for the new panel at that point.
 
Possible to use single slot 240v breaker similar to the tandem breaker?

ge-2-pole-breakers-thqp220-64_145.jpg
No, it can't really work that way, because you don't have access to the two different bus bars to get the opposite phases if it's just in one slot. However, there are other kinds that combine things in the space of two slots. Those are called "quad breakers". Those can come in forms like 2 different 240V circuits or 1 240V and 2 120V circuits.
 
Can anyone give me a walkthrough or some pointers to change the 20A breaker to a 30A breaker and run the new wiring out to the front of the garage? I’m pretty handy generally speaking but I don’t know the materials. So I need the new breaker, wiring (I guess if I’m running a TT-30 it should be some type of Romex) and I need a conduit recommendation as well. I will buy the Tesla cable organizer and mount it nearby but I’d also like to build some type of shelter or enclosure (with vents I guess) to keep it connected long-term to avoid stress on the outlet.
 
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Can anyone give me a walkthrough or some pointers to change the 20A breaker to a 30A breaker and run the new wiring out to the front of the garage? I’m pretty handy generally speaking but I don’t know the materials. So I need the new breaker, wiring (I guess if I’m running a TT-30 it should be some type of Romex) and I need a conduit recommendation as well. I will buy the Tesla cable organizer and mount it nearby but I’d also like to build some type of shelter or enclosure (with vents I guess) to keep it connected long-term to avoid stress on the outlet.

In the inside cover of your panel it will list the breaker types that are approved for the panel. Generally you just need to match the manufacturer. So if it's a GE panel, go to Home Depot/Lowes and get a GE 30A breaker.

There are also two-letter codes for breaker types that you can use for an exact match, so if you see those try to match the code. For example, my Siemens panel accepts several breaker types. QP is one of them. From your photos, it looks like yours are all type QP.

With new breaker in hand,
1. Turn off the main breaker. The incoming service leads are always hot, be careful of them.
2. Remove panel cover
3. Grasp the breaker you want to remove and pivot it keeping the central side down while pulling towards you the side with the screw and wire. If the main breaker is off then the screw and wire are not live. If the main breaker is on then turn off the breaker first. Its screw and wire will not be live but all the other ones will be.
4. Unscrew the wire from the terminal on the breaker you just removed.
5. Screw the wire into the terminal on the new breaker. To do this right you need a torque wrench to ensure you tighten the screw to the torque required, usually listed inside the panel cover. If you don't have a torque wrench do it as tightly as you can, then try to tighten it again. High current warms the wire, causes it to expand, and can over time cause the wire to wiggle its way out from under the screw. This can increase resistance and temperature and possibly cause a fire. Tighten that screw!
6. Put the breaker back in the opposite way from how you got the old one out. If you didn't have a main breaker in step 1, make sure the new breaker is in the off position before you put it in.
7. Turn power back on and turn on the new breaker.

A word about breaker types: If your panel is an older brand that isn't sold anymore (and it looks like an old panel) then they do make generic breakers. The reason you're supposed to use breakers compatible with your panel manufacturer is that the clips that hold the breaker to the bus bar in the back of the panel vary a little among manufacturers and if you use an incompatible one it might work but it might not hold in there for long or under sustained load. I don't think generic breakers are a good idea - better idea is to replace the panel IMO.

For a 30A breaker make sure you're using 10 gauge wiring. Romex is fine in a garage if it's behind drywall but if you're putting it in conduit on the surface then you need to use THHN/THWN wiring in the conduit because a garage is considered "wet" and Romex isn't allowed in "wet" locations. It's not "wet" if it's behind drywall.
 
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I would highly recommend at least upping to the 5-20 since you have a 20A breaker already available. It seems like a very small increase, but especially in the cold you will see an outsize improvement in real-world miles added. I haven't seen the videos you've mentioned that discussed cold-weather charging, but speaking from experience if you have a car that's cold-soaked (that has sat in below-freezing weather for several hours), you can then see several hours of charging where you gain absolutely nothing @ 12A. Jumping to the 20A breaker and 16A load makes a big real-world difference.

All that said, any 240V outlet is a much better option if you can swing it.

If you plug-in to a 15A outlet when you get-home, the battery will most-likely be warmed-up enough from driving to immediately start charging at 4MPH. It's only when the battery has been sitting and is cold-soaked that it takes an hour or so to warm-up before charging.
 
I don't think code allows you to run Romex in conduit due to heat dissipation concerns.

I am not an electrician but my semi-in-depth research on this is that code DOES allow romex in conduit but nobody should be doing it. The reason people mostly want to put Romex in conduit is to run it outside or in a garage or some other location considered a "wet" location. Code does not allow Romex in "wet" locations even if it's in conduit.