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Change to fusing/supply for 12V outlet?

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A UK Facelift Model S owner is reporting that on his facelift S the center 12V outlet is connected to the same circuit as the OBD-II permanent supply, and has only a 5A fuse (he keeps blowing the fuse every time he tries to use a tire compressor).

The pre-facelift car has a 15A circuit for the 12V outlet, which is only active when the car is awake, and a separate permanent 12V supply for the OBD-II port, with a 5A fuse.

Have Tesla combined these?

If so, does the fact the 12V outlet is now permanently powered outweigh the lunacy of it only having a 5A fuse?
 
This seems unlikely, the 15A fuse is already low by automotive standards (most are 20-30) Surely even Tesla wouldn't be THAT stupid.

I personally removed the relay in the fuse box that controls the 12V outlet and replaced it with a chunk of 10awg wire so it's always live, and still at 15A.
 
A UK Facelift Model S owner is reporting that on his facelift S the center 12V outlet is connected to the same circuit as the OBD-II permanent supply, and has only a 5A fuse (he keeps blowing the fuse every time he tries to use a tire compressor).

My portable tire compressor draws significant juice that would blow the fuse every time. For this reason, I spoke to the service manager at my local Tesla. Here is an answer to the problem.

The frunk has a large plastic plate that must be removed to access the fuse box. This plate has two screw-like connectors on the edge next to the passenger compartment and one clip on each side of the front edge that is closest to the headlights. Take off the plastic plate.

Once the plate is removed, the 12V battery STILL is a bitch to access but the fuse box can be accessed easily. It is in the center at the top close to the windshield. The wires connected to the back of the fuse box come directly from the battery and are not fused. When in an emergency on the road, I use a cigarette lighter plug extension cord. It has with battery clips on one end that can be attached to one of the hot leads and any metallic portion of the frame for a ground. With a meter, you easily find this hot lead on the back of the fuse box. When attached in this manner, the connection functions just like you were attached directly to the battery. You can run your pump without blowing a fuse.