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Call for non-destructive front license plate bracket

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The black device at the top of the plate is my EZ Pass.

I was able to pop off my nose cone yesterday and velcro my license plate EZ Pass to the steel cross beam that sits behind the nose cone. Went through a toll that night and it registered. Took 5 minutes at most and most of that was getting the nerve up to pry at the nose cone.

I like the look of a clean front plate frame and no one can steal my EZ Pass.
 
I was able to pop off my nose cone yesterday and velcro my license plate EZ Pass to the steel cross beam that sits behind the nose cone. Went through a toll that night and it registered. Took 5 minutes at most and most of that was getting the nerve up to pry at the nose cone.

I like the look of a clean front plate frame and no one can steal my EZ Pass.

How did you remove the nose cone? (assuming we both have the full 1 piece and not the original signature nose cone). Did you take anything out of the frunk? It looks to me, from looking at other threads, that the "gentlest" way might be to remove plastic covers on the left and right of the frunk (they easily pop out), remove the frunk box itself, remove the front end plastic sill, then be able to push from the back side of the nose cone and it would pop right out. Or did you simply leave everything in place and use a credit card or flathead screwdriver to pry at the tabs from the front? Also in one thread, someone said that the service center guys literally just yank at it from the chrome at the top and rip it right off. Curious because I want to put my EZ pass thing there too. Was yours one of the black long "exterior" tags, or one of the white square interior tags?
 
How did you remove the nose cone? (assuming we both have the full 1 piece and not the original signature nose cone). Did you take anything out of the frunk? It looks to me, from looking at other threads, that the "gentlest" way might be to remove plastic covers on the left and right of the frunk (they easily pop out), remove the frunk box itself, remove the front end plastic sill, then be able to push from the back side of the nose cone and it would pop right out. Or did you simply leave everything in place and use a credit card or flathead screwdriver to pry at the tabs from the front? Also in one thread, someone said that the service center guys literally just yank at it from the chrome at the top and rip it right off. Curious because I want to put my EZ pass thing there too. Was yours one of the black long "exterior" tags, or one of the white square interior tags?

I have a production model with one piece nosecone and the long, black EZ Pass that is supposed to be attached to the license plate.

I used a device that looks like a plastic pencil and inserted it into a point, about "two o'clock" on the nosecone where two body panels come together forming a little triangular space with the nosecone. I inserted my tool, pried a little and was able to work a credit card into the space that was created by prying. Using the credit card and my "pencil", i was able to get my fingers behind this area of the cone and then pulled the remaining tabs free. I worked my way across the top first and then pulled the cone straight out.

I didn't open the frunk, let alone remove any plastic pieces.
 
I'm looking into options for mounting my front plate for Ontario in a couple weeks when I receive my MS. I just wanted to re-open discussions here to see if everyone is still happy with the way that they mounted their plates? From reading so far, the sturdiest and most visually non-destructive seems to be using the Skene bracket mounted and screwed underneath the cone lip (I don't have/need a 3D printer).

I am pleased with the effect here of just using plastic ties to secure the plate to the grill. The 14 inch ones are best as they allow one to easily loop the grill. That said, I used 8 inch ties. The black device at the top of the plate is my EZ Pass. The top ties just loop through it. This all took about seven minutes, and avoids any drilling of holes and leaves the car looking sweet and not squared-off and knocked-up as some plate holders do on the Model S.

Have you found that the bare plate rubs against the car either at the bottom or the back? It seems with wind/washing that there would be some scuffing that would occur?
 
Now that a few thousand more people have their cars thought I'd check back in to see if anyone with the engineering and production skills to make something like this had taken a crack at it. There definitely is a market for it that hopefully Tesla will take care of if no one else does.
 
Now that a few thousand more people have their cars thought I'd check back in to see if anyone with the engineering and production skills to make something like this had taken a crack at it. There definitely is a market for it that hopefully Tesla will take care of if no one else does.
I've been meaning to follow up with some professionals that fabricate such things, but haven't gotten around to it since I had my vehicle wrapped (and the zip-tied front plate removed).
 
I ended up sticking my front plate to the nose cone using three small pieces of 3M VHB automotive tape, the same stuff that's used to adhere emblems to cars - clear coat safe and strong as glue. As "non-destructive" as you can get. It's semi-permanent, meaning it won't come off on its own but can be easily removed by sawing a piece of dental floss through the foam and then rolling the residual adhesive off with a finger.

The correct tape to get is grey with a red peel. Just clean off the nose cone and the back of the plate with isopropyl alcohol, cut, peel and stick. I curved my plate a little bit to wrap to the curve of the nose cone.

I picked up a small roll at the local auto parts store for $6. Same stuff as in this link, just a smaller amount.
 
I just got my plates so I modeled a couple standoffs and printed them on my 3d printer so that I could mount the plate to the grill. The screws go though the plate and the stock plate holder into the standoffs. The bottom side of the standoffs has a slot for a zip tie to go though which is how I mount them to the grill. If I get a chance I will take a pic of the attached plate holder.
 
For those of you still wondering how this works, I already had a Skene Design mount , but wanted to try bgnelson's method.

The parts were $1.96 at Home Depot. You want the 1/4" x 4 1/4" clothesline hook #4. The part number was 030699100965, (photo attached) . They even came with the nuts.

This is so simple, it's brilliant!

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Originally Posted by jayfrostviewpost-right.pngFound this on the Tesla Motor Forum. All credit to bgnelson.

Tesla Model S Front Plate - YouTube


tesla front mount hardware.jpg
front plate.JPG
 
For those of you still wondering how this works, I already had a Skene Design mount , but wanted to try bgnelson's method.

The parts were $1.96 at Home Depot. You want the 1/4" x 4 1/4" clothesline hook #4. The part number was 030699100965, (photo attached) . They even came with the nuts.
Be aware that zinc plated hardware rusts pretty quickly when exposed to the elements.
 
I installed the Skene front plate brackets and am very pleased. I originally ordered the medium size, but exchanged them for the small size so that the bracket could fit snugly to the grille and below the nose cone. Photos below. If you have to put on the front plate, this seems to be the best solution.

Skene 1.JPG