Welcome to Tesla Motors Club
Discuss Tesla's Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y, Cybertruck, Roadster and More.
Register

Buyer’s/New Owner’s Guide

This site may earn commission on affiliate links.

M67v

I just work here
Sep 2, 2014
158
18
Reading, PA
Hey everyone. Well, it’s been a long time since I’ve been on this site so hopefully I’m posting in the right place and hopefully a thread like this hasn’t already been addressed.
I remember going on this site before I was even old enough to drive to geek out on my dream car, the Tesla Model S, and other Teslas as a bonus. However, nowadays the dream of owning a Tesla Model S doesn’t seem so far off now with how inexpensive Model Ss have become.
Before I make a terrible financial decision (which seems to be inevitable with me) and ditch my beloved 2013 Volvo S60 T6 AWD for a fancy used Tesla, I would really appreciate some feedback on a few concerns I have about buying a used Model S.
Right now I think the one to get is a 2014MY+ with AP1, with the tech package, panoramic moonroof, 85kWh battery or better, with a battery pack that has already been replaced. A Model 3 seems to be a great option too, they have reasonable prices too, and they’re probably going to be more reliable. I’d still rather have a Model S because the Model 3 doesn’t resonate with me quite like the S does. A 2012 Signature is tempting too, especially in Signature Red, but I think the lack of features in the early cars will make the novelty wear off fairly quickly.
Anyways, I had a few questions about buying old Teslas. Is there a way to tell if the HV battery has been replaced, and if so how? Are there certain model years to avoid at all costs? What are some problem areas and are some of them potentially expensive repairs? What are some things to look for in a test drive? Are sub $20k Teslas a red flag? Would buying an old Tesla be a huge mistake or a catastrophic mistake (what’s the difference you may ask? A huge mistake is a mistake that you can ultimately live with because you still don’t fully regret your decision. A catastrophic mistake is a mistake so bad that it’s crippling you for many years to come)? To a lesser extent, is there an aftermarket solution for blind spot monitoring? I understand Tesla has a substitute for BSM with the Autopilot screen, and the cameras in the newer cars, but really I just wish for a yellow light in the sideview mirrors.
Well hopefully that wasn’t too much word vomit, but I look forward to reading your responses. I should also mention that I’m a college student currently with a car loan on my Volvo, and right now I’m driving for Uber, which makes a Tesla sound even more attractive. I’m thinking about upgrading to a Model S next year, but not without gaining some perspective from you guys.
Thank you for reading thus far, and thank you in advance for the feedback.
 
Hey everyone. Well, it’s been a long time since I’ve been on this site so hopefully I’m posting in the right place and hopefully a thread like this hasn’t already been addressed.
I remember going on this site before I was even old enough to drive to geek out on my dream car, the Tesla Model S, and other Teslas as a bonus. However, nowadays the dream of owning a Tesla Model S doesn’t seem so far off now with how inexpensive Model Ss have become.
Before I make a terrible financial decision (which seems to be inevitable with me) and ditch my beloved 2013 Volvo S60 T6 AWD for a fancy used Tesla, I would really appreciate some feedback on a few concerns I have about buying a used Model S.
Right now I think the one to get is a 2014MY+ with AP1, with the tech package, panoramic moonroof, 85kWh battery or better, with a battery pack that has already been replaced. A Model 3 seems to be a great option too, they have reasonable prices too, and they’re probably going to be more reliable. I’d still rather have a Model S because the Model 3 doesn’t resonate with me quite like the S does. A 2012 Signature is tempting too, especially in Signature Red, but I think the lack of features in the early cars will make the novelty wear off fairly quickly.
Anyways, I had a few questions about buying old Teslas. Is there a way to tell if the HV battery has been replaced, and if so how? Are there certain model years to avoid at all costs? What are some problem areas and are some of them potentially expensive repairs? What are some things to look for in a test drive? Are sub $20k Teslas a red flag? Would buying an old Tesla be a huge mistake or a catastrophic mistake (what’s the difference you may ask? A huge mistake is a mistake that you can ultimately live with because you still don’t fully regret your decision. A catastrophic mistake is a mistake so bad that it’s crippling you for many years to come)? To a lesser extent, is there an aftermarket solution for blind spot monitoring? I understand Tesla has a substitute for BSM with the Autopilot screen, and the cameras in the newer cars, but really I just wish for a yellow light in the sideview mirrors.
Well hopefully that wasn’t too much word vomit, but I look forward to reading your responses. I should also mention that I’m a college student currently with a car loan on my Volvo, and right now I’m driving for Uber, which makes a Tesla sound even more attractive. I’m thinking about upgrading to a Model S next year, but not without gaining some perspective from you guys.
Thank you for reading thus far, and thank you in advance for the feedback.
You can look under the car, I wanna say behind the front passenger side wheel, on the battery should be a label. The number starts with a T the next 2 digits are the year it was made. And if it ends with R and a number that is the number of times it has been remanufactured.

From what I can tell there were more issues on the cars before 2015. But either way at a minimum just understand that there's no real way of knowing when the battery could go and that will be about $10k for used from third party or closer to $25k for new from Tesla.
That's your biggest expense. On the RWD and/or performance models like the one you're looking at, the rear motor has a rotor seal that wears out. You can pull the speed sensor to see if it's got coolant on it. There is finally an option to bypass that problem but it's so recent I'd be surprised if it was done.

Otherwise, make sure you can do work yourself, otherwise when the door handles stop working or a headlight burns out you'll be looking at expensive trips at Tesla as well.
 
  • Like
Reactions: M67v
Absolutely! My Volvo has forced me to learn how to turn a wrench.

Are there any reasonably priced warranties for Teslas that are worth looking into?
Hey - A Tesla is always a good idea for thousands of reasons! :)
Feel free to check us out at XCare and we can provide a quote for a warranty on any qualifying vehicles. You can compare what your different options would be. We are here and happy to help! XCare EV Protection
-Team XCare
 
  • Like
Reactions: M67v
Thoughts on this?

IMG_7150.png
IMG_7151.png
 
From the perspective of a battery, he is one of the few people that are posting accurate content. But I follow Tesla's daily 90% charge...or I think they updated it to 80% recently?

Easy way to look at it is that a battery is like a sponge. When you pour water on it (electric) it expands. And every time you pour water on it and wring it out it stretches and causes wear. Less water and less wringing typically = less wear.
 
  • Like
Reactions: M67v