Bought a "Unicorn" P100D - Roast me or encourage me? Also have some questions...

[Fragger]

I don’t agree when people say low miles are bad at all. I’m sure this car was a garage queen and probably max charged to 80%. The whole calendar aging debate is raging. I say those s batteries from that year calendar age very little if kept 50-80% range. There is a large school of thought that says these batteries won’t degrade much until used. If you are that worried you have until November to drive the crap out of it and hope something goes wrong. The fact remains Tesla is the only entity that has the data on low mileage failures. They will not share this data with anyone. As far as your price I’d feel 100x better buying a car with 17k miles vs 63k miles. All the miles mean is more wear and tear on drive units, suspension and many more charge cycles. You can always see the true capacity of battery by buying a diagnostic tool and scan my Tesla app. 41k seems great to me. Again, these cars don’t have enough history to know when they will fail. Tesla doesn’t want to share this data for some reason. I’ve also seen videos where a model y battery fails at 10k miles in 1 year after purchase. It’s very likely you have a great car that won’t need anything anytime soon. I was talking to someone who had a 2018 p100d for sale w fsd and 36k miles. I was ready to buy at 38 but it did sell. These cars have already depreciated so much that even if you did need a new battery in 2 years, you could drive it non stop for 8 years and still only pay 62k. Some of these sold for 100k more than that new.

Wow! I know it would be drinking the Kool-Aid a bit, but I'll take it! What an encouraging post from you, supported by some logical facts. I guess, we never know what will go wrong until I try it, but I'll confirm this was that 80% limited charge car, garage kept, cause it is West Coast car and if it wasn't, it wouldn't have the fresh look that it does in terms of paint and wheel etc.


Again, really appreciate you taking the time to write this out man... Very encouraging! Now let's see if I can get her here and if the features survive! Thanks!

 

[Fragger]

Won't work on legacy cars

Elaborate bud?

 

[brainhouston]

Elaborate bud?

i think this is what was meant by 'fender washers' but that suspension is only for refresh models...

Alternative, DIY refresh Model X rear camber correction

I was thinking about this over coffee. Anybody who is considering spending $400 for the Macsboost kit could DIY this for next to nothing. I need somebody to confirm the relationship between the spacer thickness and the camber, but I don't have a refresh X. If anybody is in the Bay area I'd be...

teslamotorsclub.com

 

[gaswalla]

You’ve done your research by using an expert to confirm its a unicorn. I think you’re in good shape.

I would just have a professional chrome delete because honestly the difference is probably $1000, and to see an amateur chrome delete every day would drive me crazy.

Please let us all know how it goes after you take ownership

 

[blodg1]

Very helpful, helpful post my friend! I'm assuming this would be true for FSD too, if they took it away.

About the VIN, if I give you the last 6, what could you confirm with it?

I really appreciate your post and help!

With the last six, I can ask Tesla to confirm the current configuration.

 

[Fragger]

i think this is what was meant by 'fender washers' but that suspension is only for refresh models...

Alternative, DIY refresh Model X rear camber correction

I was thinking about this over coffee. Anybody who is considering spending $400 for the Macsboost kit could DIY this for next to nothing. I need somebody to confirm the relationship between the spacer thickness and the camber, but I don't have a refresh X. If anybody is in the Bay area I'd be...

teslamotorsclub.com

Makes sense, thank you bud!

 

[Fragger]

You’ve done your research by using an expert to confirm its a unicorn. I think you’re in good shape.

I would just have a professional chrome delete because honestly the difference is probably $1000, and to see an amateur chrome delete every day would drive me crazy.

Please let us all know how it goes after you take ownership

It's like a trust fall LOL! The guy I know sells unicorns all the time, at least hunts em. But, he should have no loyalty to me, as I'm not a customer. But, he was very kind to run it by his guy, anyway. I guess some kind people still out there, I'm grateful to him!

I had a feeling you'd say that about the chrome delete and I don't disagree! But the difference is like $800 LOL! Is the wrap vs. Kits that much of a difference?

I'll keep this thread updated, for sure! Made some nice new friends in here like you, brain, and blodg1! Appreciate you all!

 

[Fragger]

With the last six, I can ask Tesla to confirm the current configuration.

You'd be a lifesaver, bud! DM'd you! Please check haha!

 

[Fragger]

Hey guys, update from today:

1. Still no transfer from Tesla, but they have my email.

2. The dealership is still trying to process the notarized paperwork and payment. I'm testing a partial wire, that I did today.

3. A kind member from this board confirmed the unicorn codes with their contacts from Tesla. Apparently, like my other source, SC01 and FSD is active on this car. Out of respect for their privacy or getting them overwhelmed with requests, I'm not going to reveal their name.


Now I'm on to envisioning owning the car. The other threads on this forum are daunting for a non warranty S... Despite the unicorn status or not.

Reached out to XCare. They won't do battery and DU unit warranty on the car, but are offering parts and labor warranty ranging from high $2K to upto 5ishK depending on deductible and number of years and miles (50K max).

@brainhouston @gaswalla any others... What are your thoughts on this? Shall nest egg cash and invest or something or do at least 2 years of XCare to work out the usual stuff... Door handles, MCU etc? Or longer years?


Finally - Anyone have any insurance pointers in Texas? In terms of rates and providers experience?

Thanks all, you guys rock!

 

[blodg1]

Hey guys, update from today:

1. Still no transfer from Tesla, but they have my email.

2. The dealership is still trying to process the notarized paperwork and payment. I'm testing a partial wire, that I did today.

3. A kind member from this board confirmed the unicorn codes with their contacts from Tesla. Apparently, like my other source, SC01 and FSD is active on this car. Out of respect for their privacy or getting them overwhelmed with requests, I'm not going to reveal their name.


Now I'm on to envisioning owning the car. The other threads on this forum are daunting for a non warranty S... Despite the unicorn status or not.

Reached out to XCare. They won't do battery and DU unit warranty on the car, but are offering parts and labor warranty ranging from high $2K to upto 5ishK depending on deductible and number of years and miles (50K max).

@brainhouston @gaswalla any others... What are your thoughts on this? Shall nest egg cash and invest or something or do at least 2 years of XCare to work out the usual stuff... Door handles, MCU etc? Or longer years?


Finally - Anyone have any insurance pointers in Texas? In terms of rates and providers experience?

Thanks all, you guys rock!

Don't worry about transfer from Tesla until you have the car in your possession. The process is simple at that point. In the app you attempt to take over the car, it will tell you a three letter name to give the car which confirms you have access to the MCU, then you photo your ID and ownership docs and submit. Within a few minutes you will have the car added to your account. I have done this many times for cars I bought at auction and realized that there is nobody reviewing the docs in real time. I "accidentally" uploaded the bill of sale for the wrong car once and had "ownership" (app access) in minutes.

 

[brainhouston]

Don't worry about transfer from Tesla until you have the car in your possession. The process is simple at that point. In the app you attempt to take over the car, it will tell you a three letter name to give the car which confirms you have access to the MCU, then you photo your ID and ownership docs and submit. Within a few minutes you will have the car added to your account. I have done this many times for cars I bought at auction and realized that there is nobody reviewing the docs in real time. I "accidentally" uploaded the bill of sale for the wrong car once and had "ownership" (app access) in minutes.

not always the case...

seem my reply above:

Bought a "Unicorn" P100D - Roast me or encourage me? Also have some questions...

Thanks :) have a look at this thread: https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/diy-tesla-drive-unit-repair.274163/ LDUs do fail early sometime but with such low miles n probably original LDU , i'm sure it didn't start leaking yet. Remans are known to fail quick... If it didn't leak coolant...

teslamotorsclub.com

 

[Fragger]

Don't worry about transfer from Tesla until you have the car in your possession. The process is simple at that point. In the app you attempt to take over the car, it will tell you a three letter name to give the car which confirms you have access to the MCU, then you photo your ID and ownership docs and submit. Within a few minutes you will have the car added to your account. I have done this many times for cars I bought at auction and realized that there is nobody reviewing the docs in real time. I "accidentally" uploaded the bill of sale for the wrong car once and had "ownership" (app access) in minutes.

Thanks blodg1. I suppose two points/questions here:

1. Transferring the car to my account and seeing FUSC, FSD, Premium Connectivity will give me the final peace of mind. Especially if I can do this before the dealership ships the car. In case there are hiccups, I could try to back out?

2. I tried this process, silly me, but I thought it would work with me telling the salesman the 3 letter name, him changing it and me completing the rest. I can't getting an error that says, make sure you're connected to mobile LTE or Wi-Fi. I called Tesla and they said that you have to be physically with the car to do this. I honestly don't even now how this would work, unless the car makes some connection via NFC or what have you?


If you have thoughts, please do share.

While we wait... Do you guys have any advice, thoughts on my warranty dilemma and/or insurance? @brainhouston, @gaswalla, @blodg1 and others?

Thanks all!

 

[livesmith]

Thanks blodg1. I suppose two points/questions here:

1. Transferring the car to my account and seeing FUSC, FSD, Premium Connectivity will give me the final peace of mind. Especially if I can do this before the dealership ships the car. In case there are hiccups, I could try to back out?

2. I tried this process, silly me, but I thought it would work with me telling the salesman the 3 letter name, him changing it and me completing the rest. I can't getting an error that says, make sure you're connected to mobile LTE or Wi-Fi. I called Tesla and they said that you have to be physically with the car to do this. I honestly don't even now how this would work, unless the car makes some connection via NFC or what have you?


If you have thoughts, please do share.

While we wait... Do you guys have any advice, thoughts on my warranty dilemma and/or insurance? @brainhouston, @gaswalla, @blodg1 and others?

Thanks all!

It sounds to me like the car isn't getting cell service for some reason.
But I suppose it is entirely possible that Tesla is checking the GPS location of the car and your phone and wanting to verify they are in the same location...

 

[blodg1]

Thanks blodg1. I suppose two points/questions here:

1. Transferring the car to my account and seeing FUSC, FSD, Premium Connectivity will give me the final peace of mind. Especially if I can do this before the dealership ships the car. In case there are hiccups, I could try to back out?

2. I tried this process, silly me, but I thought it would work with me telling the salesman the 3 letter name, him changing it and me completing the rest. I can't getting an error that says, make sure you're connected to mobile LTE or Wi-Fi. I called Tesla and they said that you have to be physically with the car to do this. I honestly don't even now how this would work, unless the car makes some connection via NFC or what have you?


If you have thoughts, please do share.

While we wait... Do you guys have any advice, thoughts on my warranty dilemma and/or insurance? @brainhouston, @gaswalla, @blodg1 and others?

Thanks all

You don't have to be with the car. Even if they used location services in your phone to compare locations, there are still cars I have acquired that had dead GPS, which debunks that theory. My money is on the car lacking connectivity. Have the dealer send a pic of the car renamed while also showing the status of the LTE connection. Maybe they didn't match the case of the name?

 

[Fragger]

It sounds to me like the car isn't getting cell service for some reason.
But I suppose it is entirely possible that Tesla is checking the GPS location of the car and your phone and wanting to verify they are in the same location...

You don't have to be with the car. Even if they used location services in your phone to compare locations, there are still cars I have acquired that had dead GPS, which debunks that theory. My money is on the car lacking connectivity. Have the dealer send a pic of the car renamed while also showing the status of the LTE connection. Maybe they didn't match the case of the name?

I thought about the lack of connectivity, but if the car showing LTE at the top and not connecting, do I have bigger issues like, Premium Connectivity not being on the car or LTE chip fried?

Do you guys recommend a way to confirm connectivity? Like launch a browser or something? Sorry, haven't used a Tesla in a while... So not Uber familiar with menus and options.

When I called Tesla, they said I needed to be by the car, I assume that was BS? The dealer probably had the case right. It's 3 letters. I said all caps and we tried like 6 times...

Appreciate you guys!

 

[blodg1]

I thought about the lack of connectivity, but if the car showing LTE at the top and not connecting, do I have bigger issues like, Premium Connectivity not being on the car or LTE chip fried?

Do you guys recommend a way to confirm connectivity? Like launch a browser or something? Sorry, haven't used a Tesla in a while... So not Uber familiar with menus and options.

When I called Tesla, they said I needed to be by the car, I assume that was BS? The dealer probably had the case right. It's 3 letters. I said all caps and we tried like 6 times...

Appreciate you guys!

Premium connectivity uses cellular but cellular is active regardless of premium connectivity. Simply pulling up the map and scrolling around will confirm network connection. You are correct about "by the car" being BS. I had one car physically on the east coast, one showing stuck on a freeway in Phoenix, and one showing located in downtown LA traffic. The last two lost their location due to their pyro fuse being blown. All were able to be added to my account using the renaming process.

 

[brainhouston]

2. I tried this process, silly me, but I thought it would work with me telling the salesman the 3 letter name, him changing it and me completing the rest. I can't getting an error that says, make sure you're connected to mobile LTE or Wi-Fi. I called Tesla and they said that you have to be physically with the car to do this. I honestly don't even now how this would work, unless the car makes some connection via NFC or what have you?

I had that error too with my cars, not sure if its just a glitch but i had to try few times too
Maybe try wifi instead of LTE, i think its what i did or the opposite, can't remember...

While we wait... Do you guys have any advice, thoughts on my warranty dilemma and/or insurance?

I've never purchased warranty n only had 1 car that had about 3k miles left on warranty
I never will buy warranty but i'm biased cause i do 99% of car repairs myself
I also know that warranty/insurance companies are FOR profit, they do what is best for them, ie to make money off u lol

If it wasn't for required insurance liability i'd probably not buy that either, cause over my whole driving history, i payed way more for insurance then what they payed out for handful of fender benders.

PS. i know its a piece of mind n u don't want be stuck with million dollar lawsuit if u win that lottery accident... but statistically its same as winning powerball lol

 

[Fragger]

Premium connectivity uses cellular but cellular is active regardless of premium connectivity. Simply pulling up the map and scrolling around will confirm network connection. You are correct about "by the car" being BS. I had one car physically on the east coast, one showing stuck on a freeway in Phoenix, and one showing located in downtown LA traffic. The last two lost their location due to their pyro fuse being blown. All were able to be added to my account using the renaming process.

Thanks bud... I'll try to troubleshoot with the dealer again, any other tips you got for getting the LTE to catch Connectivity, like the maps thing? Now I'm nervous that the car has issues with its cellular radio?

I had that error too with my cars, not sure if its just a glitch but i had to try few times too
Maybe try wifi instead of LTE, i think its what i did or the opposite, can't remember...


I've never purchased warranty n only had 1 car that had about 3k miles left on warranty
I never will buy warranty but i'm biased cause i do 99% of car repairs myself
I also know that warranty/insurance companies are FOR profit, they do what is best for them, ie to make money off u lol

If it wasn't for required insurance liability i'd probably not buy that either, cause over my whole driving history, i payed way more for insurance then what they payed out for handful of fender benders.

PS. i know its a piece of mind n u don't want be stuck with million dollar lawsuit if u win that lottery accident... but statistically its same as winning powerball lol

Brain, good idea on the Wifi, bud. Not sure if the dealer will play. At this point, I kinda want to get it done through LTE as to our rule any issues with the cellular radio.

Fair point on the warranty and such. Especially for you, cause you seem to be a legend in terms of knowledge and working on the cars. For the less capable and a young family with plans to take the car on long, LONG road trips... I wonder what kinda coverage I need to avoid insanity! If you have tips, please do share!

Thank you, as always, my friend!

 

[brainhouston]

Fair point on the warranty and such. Especially for you, cause you seem to be a legend in terms of knowledge and working on the cars. For the less capable and a young family with plans to take the car on long, LONG road trips... I wonder what kinda coverage I need to avoid insanity! If you have tips, please do share!

Thank you, as always, my friend!

Far from legend but maybe one day lol Thanks!
Whatever coverage u get, make sure u know how it works so u don't get stuck somewhere unable to fix it.
Currently for Tesla, i think u only got Extended thru them n Xcare...
At the very least get AAA, since we don't even have a spare in our cars.

 

[Fragger]

Far from legend but maybe one day lol Thanks!
Whatever coverage u get, make sure u know how it works so u don't get stuck somewhere unable to fix it.
Currently for Tesla, i think u only got Extended thru them n Xcare...
At the very least get AAA, since we don't even have a spare in our cars.

AAA is checked, and non negotiable for me, every year, I only own old cars haha!

XCare is the only option I know of, but when they don't want to cover the battery on this thing, nor DU. So, not sure weather to nest egg this thing or get XCare to get the kinks out?

BTW how do we tow Teslas with AAA?