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Bent rear passenger side hub/axle after spinning off track in MYP

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I just found the guy I used before. Go see this guy; Jeff Forss. He is awesome and can help you out a lot better than Tesla will. Buy the MPP or UP parts and have him take care of it.


His prices are fair and his work is excellent. In other words a great value.
I would also vouch for Jeff. He’s a one man show and can be pretty busy. Sometimes he can be a little moody. But he does great work, meticulous, and is fun to chat with. Just make sure you stay out of the work area. I enjoyed going there because you can chat with him while he works and I think he seems to enjoy sharing his knowledge.
 
I took the rear passenger wheel off to take a look at the damaged area again. I can’t really tell which part got bent, but one of the arms is in contact with some plastic piece at the bottom. I also noticed a big dent at the base of the shock, so that’s going to need to be replaced. I guess I’ll find out the cost in time, but pretty sure it won’t be $490.😩

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I received an estimate from Tesla via the app and it's $490 based on my pictures and description. I really doubt it's going to end up being this low, but if it end up being anywhere near this I'd be real happy. Hell, I wouldn't have been shocked to see $4,900 on that estimate.
Not sure how I missed it, but I re-read the estimate and the $490 is just for diagnostics and alignment check. So it'll most likely be several $k's. Just want to correct the above.
 
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Are you able to take the other side off and compare?
I checked the other side real quick. It seems normal and the shock doesn't have a dent on it. Control arms near the bottom aren't in contact with any surrounding plastics. I do wonder if they have to change some of the driver side stuff to match the passenger side suspension parts, since they use the "comfort suspension" now. Anyway, hopefully I'll find out soon.
 
The lower control arm is bent pretty badly in your photos. It's thin, stamped sheet metal which makes it the weak point of the rear suspension. The indentation of the knuckle hitting the shock is concerning. The suspension moved inward quite a bit on impact. CV joints on axles have only so much room for inward and outward movement. Once that is used up, the impact energy is transferred directly to the drive unit. It's like taking a sledgehammer to the half-shaft. It can deform the ball bearings and races inside the gearbox. I've seen some fairly minor appearing curb tap collisions turn into totaled vehicles after the insurance appraiser added the cost of a replacement gearbox. Hope this isn't the case for you but, fair warning, you need to pay close attention to any drive unit noise or vibration after the bent control arm gets fixed.
 
  • Informative
Reactions: TSLA Pilot
The lower control arm is bent pretty badly in your photos. It's thin, stamped sheet metal which makes it the weak point of the rear suspension. The indentation of the knuckle hitting the shock is concerning. The suspension moved inward quite a bit on impact. CV joints on axles have only so much room for inward and outward movement. Once that is used up, the impact energy is transferred directly to the drive unit. It's like taking a sledgehammer to the half-shaft. It can deform the ball bearings and races inside the gearbox. I've seen some fairly minor appearing curb tap collisions turn into totaled vehicles after the insurance appraiser added the cost of a replacement gearbox. Hope this isn't the case for you but, fair warning, you need to pay close attention to any drive unit noise or vibration after the bent control arm gets fixed.
It's definitely tricky to tell from the photos, but I was also thinking that the lower arm buckled. Good points on other things to look out for. Hopefully it's just the lower control arm.

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The lower control arm is bent pretty badly in your photos. It's thin, stamped sheet metal which makes it the weak point of the rear suspension. The indentation of the knuckle hitting the shock is concerning. The suspension moved inward quite a bit on impact. CV joints on axles have only so much room for inward and outward movement. Once that is used up, the impact energy is transferred directly to the drive unit. It's like taking a sledgehammer to the half-shaft. It can deform the ball bearings and races inside the gearbox. I've seen some fairly minor appearing curb tap collisions turn into totaled vehicles after the insurance appraiser added the cost of a replacement gearbox. Hope this isn't the case for you but, fair warning, you need to pay close attention to any drive unit noise or vibration after the bent control arm gets fixed.

It's definitely tricky to tell from the photos, but I was also thinking that the lower arm buckled. Good points on other things to look out for. Hopefully it's just the lower control arm.

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Thanks for the suggestions. I will definitely pay attention to potential drive train issues. Hopefully it will be repairable.
 
Updating this thread regarding repairs for my car.

The car spun off the track on 6/3 and my appointment at Tesla was set for 6/15. I got the car there for the appointment and after a few days the final diagnostics were to replace the following:

-Rear RH lower control arm
-Driven hub
-RR damper assembly (rev D, so correct for my 21)
-Aero shield-Mid

Including diagnostics and alignment, the total was just under $1,300 and repairs were completed today, 6/20.

I took the Martian wheels to Discount Tire to have them take a look, and to my surprise they said all 4 tires were OK. The rear passenger wheel got bent up a bit so they suggested that I get a new one rather than try to repair it.

So including the wheel and towing, my track spin-out cost me around $2,400, which is less than what I was bracing for.

Hopefully the car will operate without further issues and that I've learned my lesson so it won't happen again.
 
Updating this thread regarding repairs for my car.

The car spun off the track on 6/3 and my appointment at Tesla was set for 6/15. I got the car there for the appointment and after a few days the final diagnostics were to replace the following:

-Rear RH lower control arm
-Driven hub
-RR damper assembly (rev D, so correct for my 21)
-Aero shield-Mid

Including diagnostics and alignment, the total was just under $1,300 and repairs were completed today, 6/20.

I took the Martian wheels to Discount Tire to have them take a look, and to my surprise they said all 4 tires were OK. The rear passenger wheel got bent up a bit so they suggested that I get a new one rather than try to repair it.

So including the wheel and towing, my track spin-out cost me around $2,400, which is less than what I was bracing for.

Hopefully the car will operate without further issues and that I've learned my lesson so it won't happen again.
was this completed at maplewood?
 
was this completed at maplewood?
Yes, I had it done at Maplewood. It's the closest SC to me.

Hopefully you didn't have insurance pay for it. If you had a 1k deductible it clearly wouldn't be worth it considering how it would jack your rates even if they didn't cover it.
Insurance does not cover this situation, so I couldn't have used it. I wouldn't want to use it for this amount anyway.