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About to buy another Model S... These codes are showing... Worth it?

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So I'm considering a 100D purchase. It has the following codes showing. I've looked thru the forums and did not see a specific thread on how much it would cost to fix these? Battery Pump. From my understanding the Model S has 3 pumps and the 1 & 2 are not too bad to replace. Any ideas on what it would cost to pay Tesla to fix or if they are that important to bother with?
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Option 2 is another Model S with the following codes. I've heard the heater replacement is $2500-$3000 repair tho. This option 2 car has no heat working in it at all right now. If it does not get fixed will it eventually drain the 12v or does it matter if I don't need heat?
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Dealership wants me to make offer, they are not looking to take it to Tesla to get looked at. Not to mention the Tesla Service center is backed up at least a month anyway.
Up to you of course but you have no idea if those are the only issues. Unless the deal is so good you have room for multiple thousand dollar repairs I guess.
 
After doing some research it looks like the pump replacement isn't a deal-breaker:
Also for future reference here's a video of how to replace coolant pumps:

Would love to know how much Tesla would charge to replace. Wonder if I can get a service center to tell me.
 
I can get a great deal.... and they would be willing to reduce price possibly by repair amount... if I only knew what repair amounts would be? That's the part I'm having trouble getting info on.

Battery Coolant Pump 1 replacement - Car 1
Heater elements and DCDC fuse replacement - Car 2
 
I can get a great deal.... and they would be willing to reduce price possibly by repair amount... if I only knew what repair amounts would be? That's the part I'm having trouble getting info on.

Battery Coolant Pump 1 replacement - Car 1
Heater elements and DCDC fuse replacement - Car 2
I can't hurt to ask the seller to ask Tesla for an estimate. That won't cost them anything other than time to text a request. They might not get an answer, but easy to ask. Else, what your doing here on TMC and YouTube is the best way to get an idea. Chances are those cars will remain for sale for awhile. So you have time for this research. How much for the cars?
 
Update: So I eventually heard back from Tesla thru my messages about the Battery Coolant Pump 1 replacement - Car 1codes. I sent them screenshots and asked to set up an appointment for a car I was buying. They said "If the codes don't show under normal driving then don't worry about it If there was something wrong the car would show it. The service mode is for technicians only."

So they are saying the codes don't matter.
 
The option 1 car: there are three or four coolant pumps (dependant of model) and the fix is relatively small compared to the option 2 PTC heater change. Also the frunk latch issue might be resolved with the recall Tesla have issued.
Option 2 car needs to change the PTC heater, question do you need this fix depends if the alert is allowing to operate the car or it restricts this. With colder period of the year it does need heating as Tesla have the system set up to use it in conjunction to preheat the battery. If the seller is accepting to lower the price as you said then why not to schedule appointment to have it fixed.
I would try to get the full list of the errors of both cars as the sellers might not give the overall picture of the conditions.
 
All 3 pumps are fairly easy to access on S, and fix esp if u just get a used pump off eBay
PTC is a big job i think, not sure how accessible it is, so might have to take apart some dash pieces...
I believe PTC can fail in 2 ways, just quit working or cause isolation error (this one will render car un-drivable)

Latch is probably just a mis-aligned microswitch, its barely hanging on there with one little tab. Not sure what recall does but hopefully better design...
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All 3 pumps are fairly easy to access on S, and fix esp if u just get a used pump off eBay
PTC is a big job i think, not sure how accessible it is, so might have to take apart some dash pieces...
I believe PTC can fail in 2 ways, just quit working or cause isolation error (this one will render car un-drivable)

Latch is probably just a mis-aligned microswitch, its barely hanging on there with one little tab. Not sure what recall does but hopefully better design...
View attachment 997998
The latch Micro-Switch likes to give out. That tiny silicone/rubber boot on the microswitch tends to leak over time, allowing water intrusion. You can revive them temporarily with wd-40 or other similar sprays.
Unfortunately, the microswitch isn't available on it's own, fortunately, the entire assembly is only about $55 OTC at tesla service. I replaced mine in just a few minutes.
 
So I ended up getting Car 1. The Frunk code went away and I've not had any issues getting into trunk, etc. Will keep an eye on it tho. The pump codes still remain. I tried booking a service appointment with Tesla but they want to know how I diagnosed the pump is bad. I sent them a screenshot of codes but they haven't agreed to setting up a service appointment yet.
Would you all have any issues driving as-is with the pump codes showing? I have found no leaks and have pulled the frunk liner to check. May replace myself but now doubting if it's worth getting into yet?
 
So I ended up getting Car 1. The Frunk code went away and I've not had any issues getting into trunk, etc. Will keep an eye on it tho. The pump codes still remain. I tried booking a service appointment with Tesla but they want to know how I diagnosed the pump is bad. I sent them a screenshot of codes but they haven't agreed to setting up a service appointment yet.
Would you all have any issues driving as-is with the pump codes showing? I have found no leaks and have pulled the frunk liner to check. May replace myself but now doubting if it's worth getting into yet?
Drive away. No problem at all. If it's not customer facing error code, and only in the service menu, it's intermittent or detected a problem. Basically, repair before full failure. You will know when it is full failure, car will alert you. Vehicle will still be usable in the majority of cases with full pump failure of a single pump. I'd avoid supercharging though with a full pump failure.
 
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