2018 Model S 75D extended warranty / repair costs

[Jukster]

Hi all! 4 year warranty expires in a couple weeks. I’m in canada and the car has 74,000km (about 46,000 miles) and got offered the following prices for Extended Service Agreement.

4 year - $7645 CAD + tax = $8638 CAD
2 year - $4160 CAD + tax = $4700 CAD

In my opinion this is quite pricy especially if ESA doesn’t cover everything and there’s a deductible ($200 I think). Any suggestions?

Also what are some historical costly repairs that are common for this model?

Thank you!

 

[Jukster]

I should add that I purchased the car used in June 2022 (5 months ago) and previous owner said he never had issues. As I did a safety check when I bought it - the only thing they had to replace is the rear upper link suspension (both sides). I’ve since also upgraded to the FSD computer. Everything else with the car seems fine as far as I can tell and I absolutely love it.

 

[vraev]

My car ran out of warranty within 2y (80K km). I didn't get the extended warranty. It depends on how much you will drive. The key repairs on this car that are expensive:
- MCU replacement (I spent $3500 for MCU2 upgrade...approx same for any MCU repair)
- door handle repairs (can be repaired for half/quarter price with replacement gears). These WILL happen, just a matter of when. I think it is around $450 to replace one handle, but you can see if there are external people who can rebuild or you can rebuild the handle yourself for a fraction of the price. I had one handle fail and rebuilt it...now the second handle just failed yesterday.
- Headlights (these are also common failures. The eyebrow/signature lights burn out and two lights will cost $4k to fix. I don't know if Tesla is still replacing them, but they might eventually say it is "wear/tear and not covered"). I just got two replacement lights at $1200CDN on eBay and replaced it by a third party repair guy
- battery and motors (these are the biggest and most expensive repairs that could happen and will cost ~$10K +)...but we should have the 8y warranty for these.

 

[Jukster]

My car ran out of warranty within 2y (80K km). I didn't get the extended warranty. It depends on how much you will drive. The key repairs on this car that are expensive:
- MCU replacement (I spent $3500 for MCU2 upgrade...approx same for any MCU repair)
- door handle repairs (can be repaired for half/quarter price with replacement gears). These WILL happen, just a matter of when. I think it is around $450 to replace one handle, but you can see if there are external people who can rebuild or you can rebuild the handle yourself for a fraction of the price. I had one handle fail and rebuilt it...now the second handle just failed yesterday.
- Headlights (these are also common failures. The eyebrow/signature lights burn out and two lights will cost $4k to fix. I don't know if Tesla is still replacing them, but they might eventually say it is "wear/tear and not covered"). I just got two replacement lights at $1200CDN on eBay and replaced it by a third party repair guy
- battery and motors (these are the biggest and most expensive repairs that could happen and will cost ~$10K +)...but we should have the 8y warranty for these.

Thank you! This is helpful!

 

[vcor]

@Jukster - I stay away from extended warranties for everything. Overall, they are not a good deal, but it really depends on your situation and what you can afford if something does go bad. It sounds like your car is a 2018, which is generally quite reliable. There are always outliers that have more problems than most. My 2016 S was very reliable, with on 12v battery replacement and a PTC heater at the end of 5 years. Out-of-warranty costs were about $1000. Door handles on a 2018+ are Gen 3, and shouldn't have any issues. Repairs for those are also quite cheap now but used to be more expensive. Most issues are with older versions of the handle (Gen 1 & Gen 2). The HV battery and motors should still be in warranty (8 years, 150K miles).

Driving conditions might also be a factor in which way you go. In Toronto, I expect you have a far harsher environment than we get in California, although wear and tear issues are not covered in the warranty anyway. Not sure if there is a wrong answer to your question, but just giving you my take. $7K will cover a lot of issues if you elect not to buy the extended warranty.

 

[Jukster]

@Jukster - I stay away from extended warranties for everything. Overall, they are not a good deal, but it really depends on your situation and what you can afford if something does go bad. It sounds like your car is a 2018, which is generally quite reliable. There are always outliers that have more problems than most. My 2016 S was very reliable, with on 12v battery replacement and a PTC heater at the end of 5 years. Out-of-warranty costs were about $1000. Door handles on a 2018+ are Gen 3, and shouldn't have any issues. Repairs for those are also quite cheap now but used to be more expensive. Most issues are with older versions of the handle (Gen 1 & Gen 2). The HV battery and motors should still be in warranty (8 years, 150K miles).

Driving conditions might also be a factor in which way you go. In Toronto, I expect you have a far harsher environment than we get in California, although wear and tear issues are not covered in the warranty anyway. Not sure if there is a wrong answer to your question, but just giving you my take. $7K will cover a lot of issues if you elect not to buy the extended warranty.

Thank you! Agree 100% and the more I’ve evaluated the extended warranty the more it’s a “No”.

 

[David29]

Hi all! 4 year warranty expires in a couple weeks. I’m in canada and the car has 74,000km (about 46,000 miles) and got offered the following prices for Extended Service Agreement.

4 year - $7645 CAD + tax = $8638 CAD
2 year - $4160 CAD + tax = $4700 CAD

In my opinion this is quite pricy especially if ESA doesn’t cover everything and there’s a deductible ($200 I think). Any suggestions?

Also what are some historical costly repairs that are common for this model?

Thank you!

Those prices seem very high. I purchased the ESA for my 2015 Model S when the initial warranty expired in 2019, and the price for 4 years then was $4,250 (US). Either the price is higher now to reflect that parts and labor are now more expensive, or to reflect their experience with doing repairs, or because of the exchange rate, or some combination. Even so, the repairs I have had done so far probably do not justify the price I paid. Still, I have nearly a year to go. And having it gave me some peace of mind...
If you (or anyone else) considers the ESA, carefully review the exceptions. E.g., my instrument cluster is now delaminating, and that is not covered.

 

[GSP]

@Jukster -

In 2016, I bought the 4-year extended warranty for my 2015 Model S for $4000 (US). I normally don’t buy extended warranties, but I was concerned about expensive repairs like MCU, chargers, etc. In the end it was not worth it, since Tesla lowered the price for MCU1 and screen repair quite a bit, and I did not have any high dollar repairs anyway.

The CAD prices quoted seem way too high to consider. I would put the money in a rainy day fund instead, preferably in TSLA stock.

GSP

 

[Jukster]

Thanks all - their prices are likely as a result of inflation and the CAD USD exchange rate - I remember when I first looked into it when I bought the car in June 2022 (3.5 years old at that time) - it was like around 5600 CAD so this is quite the increase.

Extended Service Agreement | Tesla Support Canada

If your Model S or Model X was produced 2012-2020, you may be eligible to purchase an Extended Service Agreement to extend your coverage beyond your New Vehicle Limited Warranty.

www.tesla.com

 

[Droschke]

Regarding the ESA and an example of how the Tesla’s invoicing software sometimes works:

I have ESA, got the low 12v battery warning and have scheduled service. The invoice they have sent is charging me a $200 ESA deductible fee in addition to the costs for the parts and labor !!!

The thing is if an item is covered under ESA, the total cost should only be the $200 deductible and zero cost for the parts/labor. But, in this case, the ESA terms, which I've a copy of, excludes the 12v battery replacement. So, adding a $200 ESA deductible fee and also charging for parts and labor can’t be right, can it? Looks like double charging to me. Based on this invoice, it also would mean if one has the 12v replaced under ESA the total cost would be $200 more than not having the ESA. It just does not make any sense.

If you have ESA or are thinking about buying one make sure you read and understand all the inclusion/exclusion terms and watch out for any erroneous invoices like the one they have sent me.

And yes, I've messaged them multiple times asking for the invoice correction. None has been answered.

 

[Laughing Hippo]

Mine expired as well, but if you think of it, the repairs out of warranty will be difficult to pass the amount...
I had to replace the latch to the third row, and got a new battery from 75 to 90 under warranty.
Those were the only two issues I have had out of warranty for 18 months.

 

[David29]

Regarding the ESA and an example of how the Tesla’s invoicing software sometimes works:

I have ESA, got the low 12v battery warning and have scheduled service. The invoice they have sent is charging me a $200 ESA deductible fee in addition to the costs for the parts and labor !!!

The thing is if an item is covered under ESA, the total cost should only be the $200 deductible and zero cost for the parts/labor. But, in this case, the ESA terms, which I've a copy of, excludes the 12v battery replacement. So, adding a $200 ESA deductible fee and also charging for parts and labor can’t be right, can it? Looks like double charging to me. Based on this invoice, it also would mean if one has the 12v replaced under ESA the total cost would be $200 more than not having the ESA. It just does not make any sense.

If you have ESA or are thinking about buying one make sure you read and understand all the inclusion/exclusion terms and watch out for any erroneous invoices like the one they have sent me.

And yes, I've messaged them multiple times asking for the invoice correction. None has been answered.

Sounds like an obvious error, and I hope your actual bill will only be for parts and labor. My 12 V battery was also replaced after the 4-year original warranty ended, and I have an ESP. I paid $214 total (in late 2020).

 

[Droschke]

Sounds like an obvious error, and I hope your actual bill will only be for parts and labor. My 12 V battery was also replaced after the 4-year original warranty ended, and I have an ESP. I paid $214 total (in late 2020).

With lots of efforts on my part, they have now corrected it by removing the $200 ESA deductible. They blame their "system" and if that indeed is the case it's a very messed up "system" they have.

Dealing with Tesla support is not effortless by any means.

 

[Arctic_Fox]

I will say that I bought an extended warranty from the dealer for over 7K for 3 year 36,000 miles and the HV battery failed within a month and the "warranty" service contract denied the claim, and denied the claim within 20 minutes after forcing them to start another claim; claiming that the battery is a wear item and was pre-existing. The dealer doesn't want to cover the $15,000 cost, and Tesla has the vehicle sitting on their lot and wants it gone. This has been the most awful car-buying experience of my life. Anyone have experience with claims being denied for those reasons and how they fought it?

 

[David29]

I will say that I bought an extended warranty from the dealer for over 7K for 3 year 36,000 miles and the HV battery failed within a month and the "warranty" service contract denied the claim, and denied the claim within 20 minutes after forcing them to start another claim; claiming that the battery is a wear item and was pre-existing. The dealer doesn't want to cover the $15,000 cost, and Tesla has the vehicle sitting on their lot and wants it gone. This has been the most awful car-buying experience of my life. Anyone have experience with claims being denied for those reasons and how they fought it?

When you say "the dealer" denied the claim, are you referring to Tesla or some non-Tesla car dealership?

 

[ucmndd]

I will say that I bought an extended warranty from the dealer for over 7K for 3 year 36,000 miles and the HV battery failed within a month and the "warranty" service contract denied the claim, and denied the claim within 20 minutes after forcing them to start another claim; claiming that the battery is a wear item and was pre-existing. The dealer doesn't want to cover the $15,000 cost, and Tesla has the vehicle sitting on their lot and wants it gone. This has been the most awful car-buying experience of my life. Anyone have experience with claims being denied for those reasons and how they fought it?

What do the terms of the random third party warranty you bought say? I’d start reading, line by line, to see what you actually bought and what your chances of recovery are.

 

[Arctic_Fox]

When you say "the dealer" denied the claim, are you referring to Tesla or some non-Tesla car dealership?

Third party dealer

 

[Arctic_Fox]

What do the terms of the random third party warranty you bought say? I’d start reading, line by line, to see what you actually bought and what your chances of recovery are.

It comes down to these two lines

 

[Thunderbird 2]

I have a 2015 MS 70D which I bought from the original owner 18 months ago, with 52,000km on it. He had purchased a four year ESA. I think it cost him around $4500 CAD, so $7645 seems high. I bought out the remainder of the ESA from him and the balance of the ESA transferred to me. He had very little few ESA warranty claims before he sold the car to me. Since then I’ve had a number of claims that have more than paid for the ESA cost: steering column, lower control arms, two door handles, headlight (I can confirm that this would have cost $1200 CAD otherwise. The cause was corroded ballast from the winter salt. Something to consider in Toronto). The deductible is $270 CAD for each service. But if you have a few things to get fixed at once, the deductible covers all the work if it’s done at the same time. If it were still $4500 for four years then I’d advise you to buy it. But at $7645, I’m not so sure. The good news is that if you sell the car you can sell the balance of the ESA to the new owner. The ESA transfer to me occurred automatically when I bought the car.

 

[Arctic_Fox]

The Extended Warranty I bought was from a third-party and would not cover anything due to corrosion or wear and tear--they can deny any claim they want. I do not EVER recommend a third-party warranty for Tesla unless they explicitly state they will cover any power train failure, no matter what. No exceptions.