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2016 model vs. Now

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Yes many differences ..I would stick with mid 2017 onwards ...there are several threads on the main differences but unless there is a significant price difference I would stay away from 2016
 
I bought my X, delivered 3/2017, with all the options. It was in the first wave of 100D's. I think it still matches the current 100D just about perfectly (though only AP2.0). But a lot of what was optional then is now standard, so you'll have to be careful about what options the older cars have. 2016's will have different battery size options and could be AP1 instead of 2.0 or 2.5. I don't know what other differences the 2016's will have.

Tesla updates their cars continuously, so even cars with the same features may have better hardware in the later builds. If you're undecided between two cars, get the one with the latest build date (month and year).
 
I’ve been weighing this myself. Getting a 2016 vs new might save you $30K. As far as I can tell this is what you’re missing:

1. Newer AP HW. Right now I think EAP and AP1 are pretty similar. Even tonight’s announcement of AP with nav doesn’t seem all that interesting. If FSD happens then it will be interesting. But will need to shell out another $5-6K to enable it

2. Inside door sensors

3. Build improvements

You have to judge if $30K in savings is worth that difference. If you can find a 2017 it’s probably best but the problem is there are very few for sale right now
 
I’ve been weighing this myself. Getting a 2016 vs new might save you $30K. As far as I can tell this is what you’re missing:

1. Newer AP HW. Right now I think EAP and AP1 are pretty similar. Even tonight’s announcement of AP with nav doesn’t seem all that interesting. If FSD happens then it will be interesting. But will need to shell out another $5-6K to enable it

2. Inside door sensors

3. Build improvements

You have to judge if $30K in savings is worth that difference. If you can find a 2017 it’s probably best but the problem is there are very few for sale right now

Different door closing mechanism. Soft close

MCU2 with more responsive screens.

5 seat option.

Different interior and color combinations.

PUP standard
 
I’ve been weighing this myself. Getting a 2016 vs new might save you $30K. As far as I can tell this is what you’re missing:

1. Newer AP HW. Right now I think EAP and AP1 are pretty similar. Even tonight’s announcement of AP with nav doesn’t seem all that interesting. If FSD happens then it will be interesting. But will need to shell out another $5-6K to enable it

2. Inside door sensors

3. Build improvements

You have to judge if $30K in savings is worth that difference. If you can find a 2017 it’s probably best but the problem is there are very few for sale right now

Can you expand a bit more on the inside door sensors please. I haven't read anything about the X having different door sensors now than in the past.
 
What other doors are there? I wouldn’t describe the rear doors FWD, as soft close capable.

Mainly the latches on the front doors close a little quieter and don't slam as hard. If you push the door closed gently/softly even on any 2016 it'll still "soft close" which is what that usually means. Not a huge deal really.

FWDs not closing on someone under them is valuable if you accidentally close them with the fob or so but usually not a big deal either.

AP1 is perfectly fine if you enjoy driving and just want to use steering assist and cruise control on freeway driving. And if you need less of the blind spot monitoring, but interface for that stinks on all Xs I'd say even with better sensors still.

Seems like you can save probably 40K I'd say on a used 2016 90D. Some build quality is perfect fine, ours is aligned well and never had any issues. Was $110K new, and probably around $65-70K now, plus you'll pay less sales tax typically, especially if you buy private party where its usually a flat tax minimum in many states (i.e. $2500 max here in IL for private party purchase). Find one that was babied and owner probably just wanted to upgrade to newer tech if trying to make due with a great car at much cheaper price :) I'd say.
 
Mainly the latches on the front doors close a little quieter and don't slam as hard. If you push the door closed gently/softly even on any 2016 it'll still "soft close" which is what that usually means. Not a huge deal really.

FWDs not closing on someone under them is valuable if you accidentally close them with the fob or so but usually not a big deal either.

AP1 is perfectly fine if you enjoy driving and just want to use steering assist and cruise control on freeway driving. And if you need less of the blind spot monitoring, but interface for that stinks on all Xs I'd say even with better sensors still.

Seems like you can save probably 40K I'd say on a used 2016 90D. Some build quality is perfect fine, ours is aligned well and never had any issues. Was $110K new, and probably around $65-70K now, plus you'll pay less sales tax typically, especially if you buy private party where its usually a flat tax minimum in many states (i.e. $2500 max here in IL for private party purchase). Find one that was babied and owner probably just wanted to upgrade to newer tech if trying to make due with a great car at much cheaper price :) I'd say.

Since I have little ones, the inside door sensors are important. If they are underneath the FWD, it won't close on them. Some folks with the 2017 MX say they don't have them either so it sounds like a late 2017 / early 2018 feature. Owners with the 2016 model have told me the tesla center installed the gen 2 latches for them for FREE. So since the inside door sensors are a safety issue, maybe tesla center will also install them for FREE on the 2016?
 
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I was looking at this Model X and it was 0-60 3.2 seconds now today thru all say 3.8? Anyone know what’s going on?
 
You can read below about my used purchase experience, but to sum it up: With Tesla, everything is luck of the draw in my opinion. You can get really nice used 2016's or abused 2016's. Also, you can either get flawless 2018's or seriously flawed 2018's. I have personally seen both. At least with a used purchase, you can easily see pictures of a specific VIN beforehand and easily accept or pass on it. Also, it's likely any issues were already taken care of by the previous owner when purchasing used.

People harp on the fact that 2016 only has AP1. However, I didn't really care whether our X has AP1, 2, or 2.5 because I'm one of those that are unwilling to put full faith into autonomous driving yet. People mention that Tesla improved the designs into 2018. But some things that we personally wanted were only available in the 2016's:
- electronically controlled 2nd row 3 seats, which is not available in the new 7-seater config.
- perforated, real leather seats (and in the now unavailable tan color)
- free supercharging that follows life of car, not owner
- free unlimited 4G LTE
- active spoiler. Can't stand the look of fixed spoilers on the newer X's. Love how ours gets tucked in when parked.

We recently bought a used, fully loaded (literally every option you could have check marked) 2016 P90DL model X. Ours was a very clean lease return with low miles for just about half off of original retail -- over $30K depreciation per year!! (I can only imagine what Tesla's trade-in offers are based on my purchase). I looked specifically for the ludicrous because you cannot get it added on after the fact, and Tesla does not seem to factor that into their used sales prices. For example, all similarly config'd P90D's and P90DL's are priced the same...in fact, they don't even mention whether a particular VIN has ludicrous. You just have to have the patience to wait for the right one and not be bothered by having to ask the sales rep for pictures of VINs over and over, and over. I looked at dozens of VINs for used X's sent by my used sales rep at Tesla.

Our used X does not have a single noticeable scratch -- even on the 22" black onyx wheels. Also, the previous owner must have had some kind of front protector because there is not a single rock chip anywhere in the front. The panel gaps are narrow and even all the way around. (I know what gaps look like because I turned down delivery of a 2017 that I had ordered last year. Heck, even some of the new model S's and 3's that I saw waiting to be picked up when I was at the delivery center had misaligned panels or trunks). And knock on wood** seems like the previous owner took care of any concerns because I have no issues at all, ie. seats, windshield, whatever the common cases are. The previous owner even returned the car with >8/32" tires, 4G LTE chip conversion, and the iPhone and Android dock connections. I'm very happy with my used purchase even if it's a 2016.
 
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with used cars, does Tesla provided carfax report? I am more concern, if car involved in accident or not.

Tesla does not provide Carfax automatically. You have to beg and plead with them if you do want it, and sometimes still they won’t give it. But, they say it is their policy not to sell cars that have reported accidents. But, obviously, you can never know 100% for sure whether a car (from Tesla or elsewhere) was in an accident because cash repairs do not go reported.
 
with used cars, does Tesla provided carfax report? I am more concern, if car involved in accident or not.

If you get the VIN you can get that yourself. But, a note of caution. The seller of the car can protest the carfax listing and get an accident and associated repair removed from the listing for a period of time. We bought a car this way and the seller did this. The accident will disappear from carfax for 90 to 180 days while carfax investigates so it looks clean. This happened to us on a BMW my daughter drove.