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2013 Model S won't boot up or drive after parked overnight

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I was able to jump the car and read some codes. Couldn't get the car in drive or reverse but at least I was able to put the windows up and I can put it in Tow Mode now.

The codes look.. bad.

Anyone with experience with these codes have some ideas? Am I looking at something simple like a loose module connection, or a full battery replacement?

I babied this car, driven normally. Garage kept. Only charge it to 80%. I rarely Supercharge it. I tried to do everything I could to take good care of the battery so I'm pretty damn displeased. Only 48k miles on the car.

Here's the pain...
IMG_0282.jpeg
IMG_0283.jpeg
 
I had Tesla mobile tech replace the 12v battery less than 2 years ago. It shouldn't have failed that quickly should it? Wouldn't that be a very specific code that would show up? Tesla is refusing to let a mobile tech look at it and is demanding I tow it to them for $2,200 for 2 way tow just to look at it.

I really wish they had better customer service and would at least send a tech out to do a proper inspection and make 100% sure it's not just a 12v battery before towing it all the way to Jacksonville... That would end up being like $3,000 for a 12v battery replacement :X
 
I was able to jump the car and read some codes. Couldn't get the car in drive or reverse but at least I was able to put the windows up and I can put it in Tow Mode now.

The codes look.. bad.

Anyone with experience with these codes have some ideas? Am I looking at something simple like a loose module connection, or a full battery replacement?

I babied this car, driven normally. Garage kept. Only charge it to 80%. I rarely Supercharge it. I tried to do everything I could to take good care of the battery so I'm pretty damn displeased. Only 48k miles on the car.

Here's the pain...View attachment 859710View attachment 859712
Looks similar to this fellows: you can read Jason's prognosis below it.

2013 MS battery failure
 
I'm not sure why the 12v would be bad. MCU and car boots up when jumped just won't go into drive modes or HVAC. Seems to be a HV issue, of some sort.

I'm already mentally preparing for the 3 month repair wait, $20k bill from Tesla and the measly 1 year warranty(deadline to sell the car)
 
Electrified Garage said if it was the 12v battery the MCU likely wouldn't boot up but if jumped the car could be driven and I've got the opposite problem. I'd love for it to be an ez fix. The 12v battery on my car is buried really deep and it's a pretty miserable replacement task. I'd hate to spend $1,000 replacing it then find out it still needs to go to Tesla for the HV battery replacement.

How come these cars are basically computers but the diagnostic codes are super vague? You'd think they'd have some very modern and simple diagnostic codes in these things.
 
More details on codes are in the current user manual. That may help. Some problems create lots of errors and can lead you in the wrong direction so don't assume they are all issues. With a working 12v system, Tesla should be able to remotely access the car and may be able to give you a better assessment of the problem and costs. If the DC/DC inverter has failed (which seems possible) the car will not be allowed to run. A total HV failure is far rarer than the DC-DC unit failing. What is the SOC? Now that the displays are operating, can you charge the HV battery at all (say 30 minutes)? If so, the HV battery is not the problem. If it doesn't charge, it doesn't mean the HV battery is at fault, but more diagnostics are needed.
 
@tallypwner

I'm going through the same issues as you. Its not looking good.

You can see the codes I have on this thread

If Tesla does a swap (even for a reman battery) you will get 4 year/50K mile warranty so that's something to think about. At $15,000 to fix, it would get me to 2026 and I would have a 13 year old Tesla by then which I would assume that she would be worth close scrap.
 
Yea it doesn't look good.

When I parked the car several days ago it was at 50% charge.

When I jumped it last night it said it was at 70% charge. It has not been plugged in. So it's looking pretty wonky. I might experiment a little more tonight but I'm assuming it needs to go to Tesla now and they will want to swap everything and charge a fortune. Apparently older Tesla packs are selling for a fortune 3rd party these days so prices are remaining very high.

I'm sort of disgusted by how expensive towing is these days. Seems like a good business to be in right now.