20 Amp GFCI trips with mobile connector.

[CheapBastid]

Have had the Tesla Mobile Connector plugged into a converter to then plug into a standard GFCI outlet that has a cover outside that was feeding a fountain.

We're in the process of re-doing our carport and will eventually get a 6-50 plug on a 50amp breaker installed, but in the interim they have put in a 20amp GFCI plug that will take the Tesla Moblile charger wihtout the 'standard adapter' to 'dumb it down' to a 15 amp plug.

I was ecstatic as the mobile connector would reduce the charging voltage and it was super slow. Once I plugged it into a native 20 amp outlet with a dedicated breaker the charging estimate reduced to a level that I've never seen at home.

Once I got into the house the GFCI tripped. I thought it was fluke and re-set the plug but I noticed the car was setting the charge rate to 48 amps.

Since then I've been dancing with the charging settings in the car, trying to limit the rate to 16 amps, but I haven't been successful.

Last night I thought I was safe, walked away, check it twice, set to 16 amps.

Two hours later (after we were asleep) the GFCI tripped again.

Any suggestions on something I might be missing?

 

[DuncanM]

Have had the Tesla Mobile Connector plugged into a converter to then plug into a standard GFCI outlet that has a cover outside that was feeding a fountain.

We're in the process of re-doing our carport and will eventually get a 6-50 plug on a 50amp breaker installed, but in the interim they have put in a 20amp GFCI plug that will take the Tesla Moblile charger wihtout the 'standard adapter' to 'dumb it down' to a 15 amp plug.

I was ecstatic as the mobile connector would reduce the charging voltage and it was super slow. Once I plugged it into a native 20 amp outlet with a dedicated breaker the charging estimate reduced to a level that I've never seen at home.

Once I got into the house the GFCI tripped. I thought it was fluke and re-set the plug but I noticed the car was setting the charge rate to 48 amps.

Since then I've been dancing with the charging settings in the car, trying to limit the rate to 16 amps, but I haven't been successful.

Last night I thought I was safe, walked away, check it twice, set to 16 amps.

Two hours later (after we were asleep) the GFCI tripped again.

Any suggestions on something I might be missing?

Is that a 240v outlet? I would try and set the amp limit in the car to 14 or 15a and see if that helps.

 

[RayK]

Can you be more specific than "plugged into a converter", "standard adapter" and "reduced to a level that I've never seen at home"?

Exactly what type of "converter" are you using?

The standard adapter provided with the mobile connector is a NEMA 5-15; what looks like any other 120VAC plug that you have in your home. Two blades, one slightly thicker than the other and a round ground pin:

The NEMA 5-20 plug is this:

The maximum current that the 5-15 adapter will allow is 12 amps. The maximum current that the 5-20 adapter will allow is 16 amps. What was the amps that you have "never seen at home"?

Note that using the mobile connector on a circuit which is protected by a GFCI can be problematic. Some people have absolutely no issues with this setup. Others trip the breaker at random times.

 

[CheapBastid]

what type of "converter" are you using?

Sorry I was unclear. I had a NEMA 5-15 outlet and had a 'converter' that slapped on the end of the NEMA 5-20 plug that comes with the Tesla Mobile Charger that 'downconverted' it to the max 12 amp draw from my old plug.

maximum current that the 5-20 adapter will allow is 16 amps. What was the amps that you have "never seen at home"?

That sweet 16 amps I'd not seen before as the max the 5-15 would allow was 12.

 

[RayK]

As long as you are using a Tesla 5-20 NEMA adapter for your mobile connector and it fits into the 5-20 outlet, protected by a 20A breaker, then all should be okay (from the standpoint of loading the circuit to 16A). Why that's tripping the GFCI is because the mobile connector tests the outlet for leakage and sometimes that can fool the GFCI into tripping.

 

[davewill]

Have had the Tesla Mobile Connector plugged into a converter to then plug into a standard GFCI outlet that has a cover outside that was feeding a fountain.

We're in the process of re-doing our carport and will eventually get a 6-50 plug on a 50amp breaker installed, but in the interim they have put in a 20amp GFCI plug that will take the Tesla Moblile charger wihtout the 'standard adapter' to 'dumb it down' to a 15 amp plug.

I was ecstatic as the mobile connector would reduce the charging voltage and it was super slow. Once I plugged it into a native 20 amp outlet with a dedicated breaker the charging estimate reduced to a level that I've never seen at home.

Once I got into the house the GFCI tripped. I thought it was fluke and re-set the plug but I noticed the car was setting the charge rate to 48 amps.

Since then I've been dancing with the charging settings in the car, trying to limit the rate to 16 amps, but I haven't been successful.

Last night I thought I was safe, walked away, check it twice, set to 16 amps.

Two hours later (after we were asleep) the GFCI tripped again.

Any suggestions on something I might be missing?

The car will always show 48a before you plug in. It doesn't mean anything. In this case, my best guess is that your GFCI outlet needs replacing.

 

[CheapBastid]

using a Tesla 5-20 NEMA adapter for your mobile connector and it fits into the 5-20 outlet, protected by a 20A breaker,

Yes to all. Standard Tesla brand Mobile Connector that came with my 2022 M3LR

The car will always show 48a before you plug in

Even in a location that I've repeatedly set the max to 16? That seems dangerous.

my best guess is that your GFCI outlet needs replacing.

If the electrician didn't just put it in last week I'd agree with you. I suppose it might be bad out of the box.

I've re-attached the 5-15 converter that came with the mobile connector, plugged it back into the 5-20 outlet, and set it to 13a max to test tonight.

If it trips in the middle of the night (as it has been) I'll try the new (no other items plugged in) 5-15 outlet next to the new (no other items plugged in) 5-20 outlet tomorrow.

 

[stopcrazypp]

Sorry I was unclear. I had a NEMA 5-15 outlet and had a 'converter' that slapped on the end of the NEMA 5-20 plug that comes with the Tesla Mobile Charger that 'downconverted' it to the max 12 amp draw from my old plug.

The Tesla Mobile Connector does not come with a NEMA 5-20 adapter. Do you mean you bought one separately?

It comes with a 5-15 and a 14-50 that plugs into the Mobile Connector.

https://shop.tesla.com/product/mobile-connector

The Tesla 14-50 will try to draw 32A max and expects a 208V or 240V source (although it might still try to charge seeing 120V). It might auto rate limit to 16A if it detects overheating. However, your circuit breaker may trip before that if it tries to draw 32A on a 20A breaker.

If you bought a Tesla 5-20 adapter, the car will set the 16A limit by itself. You don't have to manually set it. There is a chip in every Tesla adapter that tells the Mobile Connector what the suitable current limit is for that specific adapter.

Do you have this Tesla 5-20 adapter that plugs directly into the Mobile Connector?

They sell a whole set of different adapters here:
https://shop.tesla.com/product/gen-2-nema-adapters

The way you are wording it, it sounds like you are using the Tesla 14-50 adapter then using a non-Tesla adapter to converter NEMA 14-50 to 5-20. This is what would require you to manually lower the current setting, but it may still cause problems given it's expecting to see 208V or 240V.

 

[stopcrazypp]

Yes to all. Standard Tesla brand Mobile Connector that came with my 2022 M3LR

Even in a location that I've repeatedly set the max to 16? That seems dangerous.

It's not dangerous because the official Tesla adapters for the Mobile Connector have a chip that automatically sets the appropriate limit. If instead you are doing what I am describing (using the Tesla 14-50 adapter then adapting that to 5-20) then you bypass that feature and would have to manually set a limit (which can be dangerous).

The location setting is not always 100% reliable because it relies on GPS and an internet connection to look up your location. It's best to use the correct adapter.

As a side note, if any appliance shares the same circuit as the one your 15-20 is on and the GFCI protects those outlets also, it can easily get tripped while you are charging. When I was still charging on 120V via a GFCI outlet in my garage, when I run other things on the same circuit, it can easily trip it. Just the charging alone at 12A already consumes the entire circuit's capacity.

Also check your panel if the 5-20A outlet you are charging on is using a 20A breaker at the breaker panel and not just a 15A. If it's a 15A, then charging 16A continuously obviously can trip the breaker.

 

[Parisio]

Have had the Tesla Mobile Connector plugged into a converter to then plug into a standard GFCI outlet that has a cover outside that was feeding a fountain.

We're in the process of re-doing our carport and will eventually get a 6-50 plug on a 50amp breaker installed, but in the interim they have put in a 20amp GFCI plug that will take the Tesla Moblile charger wihtout the 'standard adapter' to 'dumb it down' to a 15 amp plug.

I was ecstatic as the mobile connector would reduce the charging voltage and it was super slow. Once I plugged it into a native 20 amp outlet with a dedicated breaker the charging estimate reduced to a level that I've never seen at home.

Once I got into the house the GFCI tripped. I thought it was fluke and re-set the plug but I noticed the car was setting the charge rate to 48 amps.

Since then I've been dancing with the charging settings in the car, trying to limit the rate to 16 amps, but I haven't been successful.

Last night I thought I was safe, walked away, check it twice, set to 16 amps.

Two hours later (after we were asleep) the GFCI tripped again.

Any suggestions on something I might be missing?

You can not use a GFCI with a Tesla.

 

[Cosmacelf]

You can not use a GFCI with a Tesla.

Wrong.

 

[Cosmacelf]

I would guess that the circuit is either being used by something else (like a refrigerator), or the GFCI is bad. Please use correct terminology. They are adapters, not converters. And they are NEMA 5-15 adapters, or NEMA 5-20 adapters, or NEMA 14-50 adapters...

 

[RayK]

To recap and provide clarifications:

Have had the Tesla Mobile Connector plugged into a converter to then plug into a standard GFCI outlet that has a cover outside that was feeding a fountain.

OP is using an outdoor 5-15 outlet with the UMC that has the NEMA 5-15 adapter which is standard with the package you get from Tesla.

We're in the process of re-doing our carport and will eventually get a 6-50 plug on a 50amp breaker installed, but in the interim they have put in a 20amp GFCI plug that will take the Tesla Moblile charger wihtout the 'standard adapter' to 'dumb it down' to a 15 amp plug.

New 5-20 circuit was added and assumedly the OP obtained a Tesla 5-20 NEMA adapter for it.

I was ecstatic as the mobile connector would reduce the charging voltage and it was super slow. Once I plugged it into a native 20 amp outlet with a dedicated breaker the charging estimate reduced to a level that I've never seen at home.

That current would be 16A, which is the maximum allowed for a 20A circuit using the 5-20 NEMA adapter.

Once I got into the house the GFCI tripped. I thought it was fluke and re-set the plug but I noticed the car was setting the charge rate to 48 amps.

Since then I've been dancing with the charging settings in the car, trying to limit the rate to 16 amps, but I haven't been successful.

Last night I thought I was safe, walked away, check it twice, set to 16 amps.

Two hours later (after we were asleep) the GFCI tripped again.

Any suggestions on something I might be missing?

@CheapBastid Unsure of why car reports 48A but that might be just before the charging starts. If the car has set the charging current to 48A while it is actively charging, then something is very wrong (probably the NEMA adapter is defective, is not completely plugged into the UMC or the UMC is defective). If this is truly what's happening, then discontinue use of the UMC at once.

Sorry I was unclear. I had a NEMA 5-15 outlet and had a 'converter' that slapped on the end of the NEMA 5-20 plug that comes with the Tesla Mobile Charger that 'downconverted' it to the max 12 amp draw from my old plug.

That sweet 16 amps I'd not seen before as the max the 5-15 would allow was 12.

@CheapBastid Was the "converter" something like this:

If so, and you're using the UMC with a NEMA 5-20 adapter which plugs into this 5-20 to 5-15 converter, do NOT attempt to plug it into a 5-15 outlet. The reason? Using a NEMA 5-20 adapter with the UMC will automatically tell the car that the maximum charging current is 16A. This will exceed the maximum recommended current of a 5-15 outlet (12A). You can normally manually change the charging current down to 12A in the car, but there's really no reason why you should do this. You still have a NEMA 5-15 adapter that came standard with the UMC. Use that and you'll be safe.

Yes to all. Standard Tesla brand Mobile Connector that came with my 2022 M3LR

Even in a location that I've repeatedly set the max to 16? That seems dangerous.

If the electrician didn't just put it in last week I'd agree with you. I suppose it might be bad out of the box.

I've re-attached the 5-15 converter that came with the mobile connector, plugged it back into the 5-20 outlet, and set it to 13a max to test tonight.

The NEMA 5-15 adapter should automatically tell the car that the maximum charging current is 12A. You would only be able to plug it into a 5-20 outlet IF it's a universal one (i.e., it has both vertical and horizontal slot to fit either a 5-15 or a 5-20 plug; like what's pictured in the converter I posted above). You should not be able to change this to 13A in the car. If you are able to set the current to 13A, then something is wrong.

If it trips in the middle of the night (as it has been) I'll try the new (no other items plugged in) 5-15 outlet next to the new (no other items plugged in) 5-20 outlet tomorrow.

So, what was the result?

 

[CheapBastid]

Was the "converter" something like this:

Yep. As I said, (as I recall) it was standard with my mobile connector (with the 5-20 plug) that was in the trunk of my 2022 M3LR.
After re-attaching it last night I had no interruption.

IF it's a universal one (i.e., it has both vertical and horizontal slot to fit either a 5-15 or a 5-20 plug; like what's pictured in the converter I posted above). You should not be able to change this to 13A in the car.

Well, I did last night. =)

My previous setup was trying to reach an outdoor GFCI 5-15 outlet that was too far away. I got a large gauge 5-15 to 5-15 extension cord and the M3 kept reporting 'overheating' errors that dropped my charging to single digits (likely caused by there being no shade for the car or the cord). With my new setup the 5-20 connector plugged right into the 5-20 was tripping the GFCI.

The new setup using that pictured adapter seems to be 'working' at 13A (I'll try 14A tonight).

 

[davewill]

My previous setup was trying to reach an outdoor GFCI 5-15 outlet that was too far away. I got a large gauge 5-15 to 5-15 extension cord and the M3 kept reporting 'overheating' errors that dropped my charging to single digits (likely caused by there being no shade for the car or the cord). ...

Not likely. It was much more likely to be a poor connection between the mobile connector and the extension cord.

 

[Rocky_H]

the M3 kept reporting 'overheating' errors that dropped my charging to single digits (likely caused by there being no shade for the car or the cord).

Not likely. It was much more likely to be a poor connection between the mobile connector and the extension cord.

My first thought is that most extension cords are just made with really thin wire. when I first got my car, I checked the two "heavy duty" looking extension cords I had to see if they would be OK, but they were both 16 gauge wire. That's about two steps too small anyway, so would be pretty resistive and probably report overheating like that.

 

[stopcrazypp]

Yep. As I said, (as I recall) it was standard with my mobile connector (with the 5-20 plug) that was in the trunk of my 2022 M3LR.
After re-attaching it last night I had no interruption.

Well, I did last night. =)

My previous setup was trying to reach an outdoor GFCI 5-15 outlet that was too far away. I got a large gauge 5-15 to 5-15 extension cord and the M3 kept reporting 'overheating' errors that dropped my charging to single digits (likely caused by there being no shade for the car or the cord). With my new setup the 5-20 connector plugged right into the 5-20 was tripping the GFCI.

The new setup using that pictured adapter seems to be 'working' at 13A (I'll try 14A tonight).

The Tesla NEMA 5-20 adapter is not standard with the car. Did you buy it used? The standard Tesla adapters included originally was only the 5-15, later they included a 14-50 also.

You should not run 13 or 14A on a 5-15 outlet. You are overloading the outlet when you do this. Continuous loads need to be derated to 80%, so 12A for a 5-15 outlet.

 

[CheapBastid]

two "heavy duty" looking extension cords I had to see if they would be OK, but they were both 16 gauge wire.

I explicitly found and purchased a 10 Gauge extension cord with that understanding.

 

[CheapBastid]

You should not run 13 or 14A on a 5-15 outlet.

Good thing I'm running it on the 5-20 outlet.
The 'weird magic' seems to be my 'downgrading' the OEM Tesla 5-20 adapter that plugs directly into the Mobile Connector via that little 'useless' adapter that converts the plug to 5-15 and putting that into the 5-20 outlet. Somehow this 'usless' 5-20 to 5-15 piece of plastic is preventing the Tesla from over-drawing and tripping the GFCI but also allowing 13A.

 

[CheapBastid]

Update: I increased the charging rate to 14A and it did not trip the GFCI and it charged at 14A.

...next stop 15A?

...or I can try removing the 'magic plastic' and see if the Tesla overdraws and trips the GFCI at (confirmed worked with the 'magic plastic') 14A?