Gizmotoy
Active Member
Tesla Accessories requires you send them back your lights as a core, so chances are its non-standard. Your best bet is probably to order the pieces from Tesla (which is probably expensive).
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$12 five minute LED Frunk Light
- Thread starter Brightonuk
- Start date
Tesla Accessories requires you send them back your lights as a core, so chances are its non-standard. Your best bet is probably to order the pieces from Tesla (which is probably expensive).
MajesticSound
Up is LOUDER
From the thread about adding a front camera Tesla Model S Front Camera Touchscreen Switch Kit - TESLARATI.com They use 2 solutions for powering that could be used for the light.
Using a PosiTap tap power from the yellow wire with purple stripe in one of the three wire bundles
behind the driver’s side kick panel. This method is highly recommended, as the fuse tap solution below requires running a long lead from the #3 fuse box through the fender channel with the camera cable into the driver’s door jamb area.
Read more at http://www.teslarati.com/tesla-model-s-front-camera-touchscreen-kit/#SHEY6RSvaLoJFFsz.99
Using a PosiTap tap power from the yellow wire with purple stripe in one of the three wire bundles
- Using an Add-a-Fuse and a 5 amp mini fuse, tap fuse #75 in fuse box #3.
- Using an Add-a-Fuse and a 5 amp mini fuse, tap fuse #75 in fuse box #3.
- Always powered always on via the OBD2 connector (option 2)
The OBD2 connector provided with the camera switch kit provides both a 12v and ground connection. With this method the camera switch is always on and thus uses power from the 12v battery. If your car will be parked for long periods of time (10 days or longer) without access to a charger, do not not use this method.
Read more at http://www.teslarati.com/tesla-model-s-front-camera-touchscreen-kit/#SHEY6RSvaLoJFFsz.99
that's lame. what if you don't send them back? (just curious, not like I would actually spend $189 for $5 lights)
Gizmotoy
Active Member
It doesn't really say. "You will be provided with a USPS postage-paid envelope to return the OEM lighting housing back to us (free of charge)"
They don't threaten to charge you if you don't return them, so I guess it's more of a suggestion than a requirement.
They don't threaten to charge you if you don't return them, so I guess it's more of a suggestion than a requirement.
From the thread about adding a front camera Tesla Model S Front Camera Touchscreen Switch Kit - TESLARATI.com They use 2 solutions for powering that could be used for the light.
Using a PosiTap tap power from the yellow wire with purple stripe in one of the three wire bundlesbehind the driver’s side kick panel. This method is highly recommended, as the fuse tap solution below requires running a long lead from the #3 fuse box through the fender channel with the camera cable into the driver’s door jamb area.
- Using an Add-a-Fuse and a 5 amp mini fuse, tap fuse #75 in fuse box #3.
- Always powered always on via the OBD2 connector (option 2)
The OBD2 connector provided with the camera switch kit provides both a 12v and ground connection. With this method the camera switch is always on and thus uses power from the 12v battery. If your car will be parked for long periods of time (10 days or longer) without access to a charger, do not not use this method.
Read more at http://www.teslarati.com/tesla-model-s-front-camera-touchscreen-kit/#SHEY6RSvaLoJFFsz.99
This is not a good solution for the frunk/trunk lights. For this application, you probably want to tap the power source for the OEM lights, so they turn on and off at the right times.
I did end up buying that 10 light LED from amazon.
Before:
After:
The really nice thing about this one is that it detaches from its mount so it can be used like a flashlight if necessary. It has 2 light modes, low and high. And for the motion sensor you can set the light to stay on 30 or 60 seconds. I believe it is light sensitive too - aka it's not going to turn on when motion is detected if it is light out. So to force it to always turn on when motion is detected regardless of outside light levels I put a small bit of black electrical tape over the light sensor.
Before:
After:
The really nice thing about this one is that it detaches from its mount so it can be used like a flashlight if necessary. It has 2 light modes, low and high. And for the motion sensor you can set the light to stay on 30 or 60 seconds. I believe it is light sensitive too - aka it's not going to turn on when motion is detected if it is light out. So to force it to always turn on when motion is detected regardless of outside light levels I put a small bit of black electrical tape over the light sensor.
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no. in the trunk i am going to do something a bit more elaborate myself with led light strips. besides, I figured I only need one detachable flashlight, lol.
I was able to add LED strip lights that are tied into the car, so they turn on and off with the regular frunk light, without cutting anything from the car, so it can be restored to exactly the way it was.
$16 for LED strip
Wire
splicing connectors
heat shrink
and these pin connectors
$16 for LED strip
Wire
splicing connectors
heat shrink
and these pin connectors
It took me about 30 mins. I didn't cut any wires in the car and I can put the car back exactly the way it was. All the other options I saw were not integrated into the car lighting or required cutting wiring in the car. The frunk took a little longer because I had to extend the LED strip from the back into the original location. I think the trunk will be really easy, because the connectors are not far from where the lights would be, so no splicing of wires to get more length. Just adding the pins to the end of the wire and that's it. It's really not hard and I think I can get 2 lights in the trunk and the frunk, for under $40, with a whole lot of material left over. I'll try the trunk later this week when I have more time.
rogbmw
Member
I was able to add LED strip lights that are tied into the car, so they turn on and off with the regular frunk light, without cutting anything from the car, so it can be restored to exactly the way it was.
$16 for LED strip
Wire
splicing connectors
heat shrink
and these pin connectors
That looks great - where did you source the parts.
2 - 19.7" strips, cut in half (One half in the frunk, one half on each side of the trunk, and you'll have an extra strip)
http://www.superbrightleds.com/more...power-led-flexible-light-strip--nfls-x3/1465/
The pins and the heat shrink, I got from Fry's Electronics.
I needed two solderless splicers they showed on Tesla Tap. http://teslatap.com/modifications/lights-how-to-improve-trunk-lighting/
I did not splice into the wiring in the car like the show in Tesla Tap. I just used the splicers to add additional length to the wiring for the frunk in order to get the LED strip from the back of the frunk to the light connector.
Here is a picture of the cable plugged into the car's existing connectors.
2 - 19.7" strips, cut in half (One half in the frunk, one half on each side of the trunk, and you'll have an extra strip)
http://www.superbrightleds.com/more...power-led-flexible-light-strip--nfls-x3/1465/
The pins and the heat shrink, I got from Fry's Electronics.
I needed two solderless splicers they showed on Tesla Tap. http://teslatap.com/modifications/lights-how-to-improve-trunk-lighting/
I did not splice into the wiring in the car like the show in Tesla Tap. I just used the splicers to add additional length to the wiring for the frunk in order to get the LED strip from the back of the frunk to the light connector.
Here is a picture of the cable plugged into the car's existing connectors.
Sorry , can you explain where you got power if you didn't splice into the existing lights?
The picture shows the original Tesla plug, disconnected from the original Tesla light. By modifying the LED strips and putting pins on the end, it allowed me to plug them straight into the existing Tesla plug. This way I didn't have do any splicing or cutting of original wiring. I didn't have to return the OEM light like the $189 option out there and I can put the car back to the way it was in less than a minute.
This just made the most sense to me and works in both the frunk and the trunk.
This just made the most sense to me and works in both the frunk and the trunk.
oh ok, I get it now. You didn't plug back in the OEM light. You are just disconnecting it completely and using that wiring harness instead of splicing.
Gizmotoy
Active Member
Do we know if these connectors were removed when they eliminated the lights on the newer models?
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