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Did you end up updating your module or leaving it since you don't use the regen feature?

I didn't renew with BCAA again this year based on the experience my family had with them. My father-in-law's car, not a Tesla was hit while it was parked and BCAA wanted to write it off. They totally lowballed him and compared cars outside of providence and a car with a rebuilt status. I ended...

It's not 2k for SR Boost and half a second is noticeable.

Where specifically? Abby is up, North Van needs power hook up and Coquitlam is in progress.

I doubt they would keep a part for that long. If there is a warranty repair they will figure out a way to fix it, even if that involves splicing and taping things. I had a hood tab that somehow melted from the body shop. Tesla was supposed to order a new one, but it was discountined and they...

I would imagine Tesla would still carry the old part number. If it gets to the point where it's no longer available they might just tell you too bad so sad. Other makers do the same thing since by then you will be out of warranty. In accidents, it'll be something you work with the insurance...

Well aren't you lucky. I'm sure others went through the same thing and came out with far less.

For the LR battery pack 75kW, it's technically 78.8kW. 2021's might have slightly more battery since Panasonic improvised the energy density by 5%. But like everything Tesla, who knows when or if it's already being rolled into production. Regarding insurance, my opinion is I don't think they...

SR+ only comes in 50kW Battery. I wouldn't worry about it too much. It would be more for people that have 75kW (dual motor and performance) paying 50kW policy.

50kW Battery which is the battery size on the Standard Range Plus. Which model 3 do you have? SR+, Dual motor or Performance?

I agree with no.1 having mixed results. I personally had some issues with them, but they did fix some of the issues after I brought it up. Dave at Automind in Richmond was better and more pleasant to deal with. They addressed the other issues that No.1 didn't address or was able to do. Is...

You can do the car with a full 60" roll, but it does require some cutting and splitting. If you buy full rolls of different sizes you end up with lots leftover.

They can take it away, suggest you use it up asap.

Your VIN is in the 4000's and you have a Performance? I see you got it delivered in Oct, but when was it built?

It's contributors like him that made this forum valuable. People disagree with each other all the time and having an open discussion is to be expected on forums. Silencing one is very one-sided and doesn't add value to the discussions.

If you're lost then don't form opinions without asking questions. VCLEFT is not the computer (mcu/ap, etc) it's the body controller on the left side of the car. You are pretty much saying what I'm saying because it's a +12v pin source. Been using this pin for over a year for my dashcam. 12v...

Can you elaborate on the car's computer, who's taping into the car's computer? The initial concept was a direct swap. Now that it's been discovered that the new hub uses a different power pin, the rest of the folks are trying to make it compatible. As stated, I'm not going down this rabbit hole...

Yes, you are obviously are missing something here. I can't speak for others, but this is exactly what I don't want to do if I can avoid it. But if I really wanted to make it work in the future, I'll be drilling a small hole and fish the 12v lines into the bin. Then 3d print a case for my USB-PD...

I was thinking the same. Why make it so complicated with L connectors when you can just use spade connectors. That's what I used to tap into the VCLEFT for my dashcam since 2018's don't have the trailer pin populated. As for making the OEM wireless pad work, I somewhat gave up on it as it's too...

It can transfer data based on my friend's setup - he has a USB-C hub connected with two USB keys attached for dashcam and music.

I took pictures of inside the wireless pad in case you or anyone else was interested.

That wasn't my response. But thanks that makes sense and obviously won't work.

That's right. But I'm making the assumption that the upper MCU board had modifications along with AP3.0. While it's anecdotal evidence, some people say MCU is faster after coming from 2.5 to 3.0. Also, green mentioned with the infotainment link was changed from 100mbps to 1gbps.

Physical connections I would say it's safe to do based on your research. But the SW side is where I'm concerned with 2.5 given that it has both Data and Power. Since you have 3.0, it should be good, keep us posted.

I might pony up and get it as I'm making this too complicated. But at 80 bucks I don't want to risk having compatibility issues with HW 2.5 and hardware ID on the hub. Since this hub is designed to work with newer 3/Y which would have HW 3.0. Do you have 2.5 or 3.0?

Not sure if the front hub can deliver more. But I finally got a tester and determined the wireless hub input is 9v. With one phone it draws 1.1-1.3A and with two phones it draws 2-2.4A. Power Source: 12V socket adapter that has USB-C PD (5V 3A,9v 3/A,12V 2.5A) Devices: 2x Samsung S9. My goal...

I'm hoping that's the case. Gives me a good indicator as to what the wireless pad needs in terms of input.

Does anyone know if the new USB wireless charging pad (1541234-00-B) requires USB-C PD or what the voltages it requires?

I wonder if it's because the prices won't change if you were to cancel and reorder. So they were more willing to make that adjustment.

When did you place your order?

Am I understanding this correctly that the 990 inverters have 6 less ST SiC MOSFET than the 980?

The same company that made the boost has done it - at least 7k, front motor and new battery.

Insurance on the island is significantly cheaper than the lower mainland. In general BCAA optional is cheaper, but you need to qualify, by having no accidents and 10+ yrs of driving experience.

Mine came back 1-2 months ago. But I haven't reached out to them with the whole pandemic.

I have not used it, but I know because the company reached out to me. But if they work well then great. Maybe provide an update when you used it in the rain and for a longer period of time. As for silicone blades, someone swore by piaa blades but then another said they were complete trash. So...

Take the reviews with a grain of salt. The company reaches out to people and offer them free blades for positive reviews.

For those that renewed or purchased after ICBC changes (Sep '19) with optional from 3rd party (BCAA, Belair, etc.). Do you see an "Anti-Theft Passive Immobilizer Discount" on your ICBC basic policy?

I noticed it has two tabs at the bottom for this front lip. Do those go into stock clips or do you have to drill holes for them?

A bit of both because the shape is odd, especially the rocker panels. I did most of the car except for the trunk and rear bumper, but I will when the weather warms up closer to spring/summer. I don't know what your comfort level is, but this was not something easy to do. I'm okay at it now and...

I did. You're going to have lots of waste. But just take a measuring tape and figure out how much you need.

A full size roll 60" x 50ft

I agree it is disappointing and should have the general parking signs like some stalls in Squamish. At a minimum at least reserve some for charging only. Maybe my post? I noticed that yesterday and posted about it. I could have technically reported it as they left the lot, but still doesn't...

This is going to be a problem. I just got clarification from Richmond Center guest services that the parking spots are NOT exclusive to Tesla charging. "The Tesla charging stations are for use by all our shoppers. While they are offered as a convenience for shoppers with Tesla vehicles, the...

That's a very good point. The sign doesn't specifically say charging only.

Nope. Back to the old signs saying "VEHICLE CHARGING". They didn't even stay at the lot, saw them cross the street.

I got up to 58kW earlier. And of course gasoline car parked in one of the charging spots.

Are you suggesting you'll be trading in your Canadian Car to Tesla US side? That won't work unless you import your car into the states, at which point you'll be paying US taxes. So that doesn't make sense to do.

Unless they changed something, I had to remove the extra piece. Good to know and thanks for sharing.

I've seen it with out people there as well. But whatever floats thier boat.

I've seen a few people do this. Not sure why though.