-
Want to remove ads? Register an account and login to see fewer ads, and become a Supporting Member to remove almost all ads.
Model 3 new USB C center console data hub from model Y?
- Thread starter AxlxA
- Start date
- Status
smatthew
Active Member
Only 20 steps to remove the center console. Specific directions aren't given for the console harness but once the console is out it should be easy to disconnect and unthread it.
Re-working the harness to use the new connectors is going to be cheaper and easier.....
Re-working the harness to use the new connectors is going to be cheaper and easier.....
What's wrong with the PT548? Looks like they'll mate looking at pictures. The gap between the last two pins away from the L are closer together, just like the hub. That can't be coincidence.
smatthew
Active Member
I just kind of doubt Tesla is using AC Delco parts.... AC Delco is GM. They make GM OEM parts, and aftermarket accessories.What's wrong with the PT548? Looks like they'll mate looking at pictures. The gap between the last two pins away from the L are closer together, just like the hub. That can't be coincidence.
20 steps? it's literally removing 6 bolts, maybe 2 screws, and disconnecting 2 wire harnesses, and the whole thing slides right out...unless they've changed something, in which case ignore me lol
anyway, this all seems like a ton of work when if you're already pulling the console, you can just cut an opening for a 12v outlet and put your own outlet in there that you can be 100% sure will work without messing around with anything else.
indeed there is...
Center console removal - Tesla Owners Online
only difference here is that he pulled just the front cubby part before anyone realized how easy it is to pull the whole console. you can just remove the six bolts (and the two screws if you have them) and disconnect the two wire harnesses, and the back of the console (the part that fits up against the front dash) will look exactly like the pictures here, just with the rest of the console attached.
(the tutorial on how to pull the whole console is just below the post i linked to above, if you need that as well)
this is on my list of things to do next, i just haven't gotten around to it (and i also don't have a hole saw yet, need to go buy one).
this was his finished product:
to be honest, when i do this i'm only looking to put the QC outlet in for the phone dock (IMO the other one is overkill), but it's obviously possible to do both if you wish.
Last edited:
I'd do a PD or just a plan 12v plug for future proofing. Qc3 doesn't work with iPhones fast chargingindeed there is...
Center console removal - Tesla Owners Online
only difference here is that he pulled just the front cubby part before anyone realized how easy it is to pull the whole console. you can just remove the six bolts (and the two screws if you have them) and disconnect the two wire harnesses, and the back of the console (the part that fits up against the front dash) will look exactly like the pictures here, just with the rest of the console attached.
(the tutorial on how to pull the whole console is just below the post i linked to above, if you need that as well)
this is on my list of things to do next, i just haven't gotten around to it (and i also don't have a hole saw yet, need to go buy one).
this was his finished product:
to be honest, when i do this i'm only looking to put the QC outlet in for the phone dock (IMO the other one is overkill), but it's obviously possible to do both if you wish.
fair point, although some fast wireless chargers don't work with PD. you can adapt it however you want for your situation, though...and if you ever need to change it in the future, once the hole is cut and the wiring is done it's a super easy swap (pulling the console is ridiculously simple).
in my case, i'm just looking to add it solely for the extra USB ports to power the wireless charger at full power for fast charging, so the QC3 USB outlet is fine for my purposes.
the main point i was trying to make is that if you do it this way, as long as you know where to wire the power to (which is easy enough, just wire it to the existing 12v socket if there's any question), you know 100% this will work. no messing around with harnesses or worrying about data or supplying too much power to anything or any of that stuff. just cut the hole, wire red to red and black to black, and you're done.
Last edited:
smatthew
Active Member
OK, I'm on a 2 week camping trip so I don't think I'll be able to write this up as quickly as people would like. Here's my idea, if anyone wants to run with it while I'm camping go for it.
The tabs are 2.6mm wide and .7mm thick.
2.8mm spade connectors will fit on the tabs.
They'll need to be insulated with a little shrink wrap.
The tabs are grouped together. The two furthest from the L tab seem to be ground. My multimeter is off cavorting so I can't confirm yet.
When I get back I plan to build a test jig - .1" headers (the old connector) to spade connector (new connector). If that works I'll rework the harness.
The tabs are 2.6mm wide and .7mm thick.
2.8mm spade connectors will fit on the tabs.
They'll need to be insulated with a little shrink wrap.
The tabs are grouped together. The two furthest from the L tab seem to be ground. My multimeter is off cavorting so I can't confirm yet.
When I get back I plan to build a test jig - .1" headers (the old connector) to spade connector (new connector). If that works I'll rework the harness.
again though, why go through all the hassle rather than just cut a hole and install your own 12v outlet up front that you can be sure will work without having to worry about anything else?
I was thinking the same. Why make it so complicated with L connectors when you can just use spade connectors. That's what I used to tap into the VCLEFT for my dashcam since 2018's don't have the trailer pin populated.
As for making the OEM wireless pad work, I somewhat gave up on it as it's too much effort. Ended up just buying an aftermarket one with an aftermarket hub. The price for both works out to be the same as the OEM USB hub without the messing around. But for the future, I did order a dc 12v USB-C pcb board if I decide to mess around with it again.
it takes literally maybe 5 minutes to pull the console. another 5 minutes to drill the hole, and maybe another 10 minutes to wire it to the existing 12v socket. at most half an hour of your time is too much effort, but going through all this nonsense to try to change out the harness or hub or whatever this has devolved into isn't?
you don't even have to add a 12v outlet up front if you don't want to go that route...you can just drill a small hole to pass the micro-USB through, and run the wire back to the existing 12v and under the bumpers into the console and plug in that way.
i have got to be missing something here. this is all way more work than just using what's already there...yet somehow people are seeing it as easier? what am i missing?
Yes, you are obviously are missing something here. I can't speak for others, but this is exactly what I don't want to do if I can avoid it. But if I really wanted to make it work in the future, I'll be drilling a small hole and fish the 12v lines into the bin. Then 3d print a case for my USB-PD pcb and use that.
fair enough i guess, but to me drilling a hole to either feed the wires or install a 12v outlet seems a hell of a lot less risky than trying to tap into the car's computer. worst case, you mess it up and spend a few hundred dollars on a new console...if you tap into the wrong pin on one of these harnesses or wire something incorrectly that interfaces with the car's computer, it's possible (not necessarily likely, but possible) you could fry something and brick the entire car.
to each his own, i guess...
Can you elaborate on the car's computer, who's taping into the car's computer? The initial concept was a direct swap. Now that it's been discovered that the new hub uses a different power pin, the rest of the folks are trying to make it compatible. As stated, I'm not going down this rabbit hole just to make the OEM wireless pad to work, I bought aftermarket products for the same price as the OEM hub and called it a day for now.
Since people are going down the route of tapping the 12v adapter or USB hub power lines, I mentioned VCLEFT because there is a pin for the trailer hitch that you can draw from, rather than sharing with the 12v adapter. It's a longer run but you can dictate the gauge of wire to use from the source.
in other words, you're messing around with the wiring without knowing exactly what you're changing and how it all fits together. that was my point.
if it were a direct swap, i would agree with you completely...once it got to the point where you had to start tinkering with wiring harnesses and all of this other stuff to try to somehow make it work in a roundabout way, that's where you lost me. just wiring 12v to power and ground isn't going to hurt anything, we know that for sure. until someone does what you're trying to do with no long term ill effects, neither you nor i have any idea what harm this might cause.
that being said, it is of course your car and you're free to do as you please with it...i just want people to know there's a much easier way that isn't going to potentially cause ill effects to your car.
Drilling several large holes in the plastic fits my definition of irreversible ill effect.
Swaping two parts and inserting a short adapter cable is completely reversible, will look 100% OEM - because it is.
If you're lost then don't form opinions without asking questions. VCLEFT is not the computer (mcu/ap, etc) it's the body controller on the left side of the car. You are pretty much saying what I'm saying because it's a +12v pin source. Been using this pin for over a year for my dashcam.
12v wire tap for Radar Detector
Like you said we're free to do as we please with our cars and so are you. There are many ways to slice the pie and if you feel this is the solution for you, then go for it. I never said it wasn't because that would've been one of the alternative choices if I really wanted to get the OEM wireless pad to work.
who said several? who said large?
i'm saying either drill a small hole to pass the power cables through, or a large hole that will be filled by a 12v outlet (which as you can see from the picture once is installed will also look like it came that way from the factory).
even if you go with the small hole just to pass the power through, you'll almost never see it since it's under the phone dock. it's not like i'm saying you should drill a bunch of holes that will be entirely visible and hae your dash looking like swiss cheese from day to day. that being said, even you screw it up, you're talking about a completely replaceable part in the center console vs frying the entire car if you start trying to tap into a data line and wire something wrong.
calling either one of these options an "ill effect" when compared to the idea of borking something electrical within the car is laughable.
Last edited:
- Status
Similar threads
