Report on brake pad upgrade
I upgraded to the H10 Hawk pads purchased from Sector 111. Much better feel, response, and power. Thay make no more noise than the stockers. I found a nice downhill, shifted into nutral (at about 40 mph) and tried the brakes without regen braking. They worked great.
To remove the pads, jack the wheel up by putting a jack under the lift point on the side of the car. Remove the wheel. Remove the little clips on the inside of the pins. Push down on the back of the (caliper) leaf spring above the brake pad at the rear pin and remove the rear pin. Remove the leaf spring and front pin. Slide the pads out. Reassemble in reverse order. First time installation had me remove the calipers in the front because the oem pads were rubber cemented to the caliper pistons and wouldn't slide out. So I had to remove the caliper bolts. Then remove the oem brake pads by prying sideways with a screwdriver. The glue used is like a rubber cement and comes off easy. Use blue locktite when reinstalling the caliper bolts. After the origional pad removal the fronts can be changed without caliper removal.
The rear calipers were not glued to the caliper pistons but still required removal of the top (only) retaining bolt. First the single retaining pin had to be removed. Use a small pin punch from the inside. There is a wire spring to remove after the pin is removed. Remove the top caliper retaining bolt (remember to use blue locktite on reinstallation). Swing the caliper away from the rotor and remove the pads. Replace the pads and reassemble in reverse order.
Wear gloves and try not to get oil or grease on the pads or rotors. It really was easy.
Well worth it.
Roger
I upgraded to the H10 Hawk pads purchased from Sector 111. Much better feel, response, and power. Thay make no more noise than the stockers. I found a nice downhill, shifted into nutral (at about 40 mph) and tried the brakes without regen braking. They worked great.
To remove the pads, jack the wheel up by putting a jack under the lift point on the side of the car. Remove the wheel. Remove the little clips on the inside of the pins. Push down on the back of the (caliper) leaf spring above the brake pad at the rear pin and remove the rear pin. Remove the leaf spring and front pin. Slide the pads out. Reassemble in reverse order. First time installation had me remove the calipers in the front because the oem pads were rubber cemented to the caliper pistons and wouldn't slide out. So I had to remove the caliper bolts. Then remove the oem brake pads by prying sideways with a screwdriver. The glue used is like a rubber cement and comes off easy. Use blue locktite when reinstalling the caliper bolts. After the origional pad removal the fronts can be changed without caliper removal.
The rear calipers were not glued to the caliper pistons but still required removal of the top (only) retaining bolt. First the single retaining pin had to be removed. Use a small pin punch from the inside. There is a wire spring to remove after the pin is removed. Remove the top caliper retaining bolt (remember to use blue locktite on reinstallation). Swing the caliper away from the rotor and remove the pads. Replace the pads and reassemble in reverse order.
Wear gloves and try not to get oil or grease on the pads or rotors. It really was easy.
Well worth it.
Roger