It’s got the hansshow guy on WhatsApp while he’s online. Had a 2 hours chat and I started using google translate to talk to him. Finally got him to understand what I’m saying. He recommended some adjustment, which I highly doubt would work. But told me to let him know if it doesn’t, he’ll pass me to R&D department to investigate. Feeling hopeful and I think the latch motor polarity may really be the issue.
Well, I'm so pleased Hannshow are now looking into it and I agree they are annoying - It does seem to be the case the person you speak to simply decides which "expert" he needs to refer you to - it's probably the same person but gives the impression they have lots of departments and experts.
I understand a bit better now exactly what the issue is - and as its the lateness of the latch releasing - rather than failing to release at all - could you try adjusting the cable of the latch a bit tighter - even to the point its pulling the latch a little open when it's at rest - this would mean that once power is sent to the solenoid the latch will already be part the way to opening and perhaps this will be enough so that when opening it all just works with super fine clearance.
You say the struts power up too early - it could be the solenoid is being energised a little too late - could it not?
It does sound like your very close to getting it right.
The earlier versions of the kit were a lot different - the suction motor for instance only had one cable to release the lock latch, the emergency release was a separate part and there were just two wires. I had to think about the logic of the new 6 wire motor before i fitted it and could only conclude that two wires activate the suction motor, and the other 4 pins are making up the circuit to send a power signal to two other parts - and they could only be the solenoids.
Therefore - in the event of a full electrical failure of the suction motor you will find the emergency release will not release your bonnet because it needs the Tesla solenoids to operate. I couldn't get my theory confirmed by Hannshow - so it's just my theory but I used to be a vehicle mechanic (donkeys years ago - an apprenticeship), I do build electrical and electronic circuits and always been into engineering so I'm sure I'm on the money.
Because of my concerns I've also added another emergency release, mechanically connected which i know 100% will release the bonnet no matter what happens. All i bought was a cycle brake cable, I fabricated a small metal bracket to fit to the lock on the primary latch side (I actually copied the same part that Hannshow used to supply with their earlier kits) - this bracket holds the outer cable of the brake cable and I soldered on a nipple to the end of the inner cable which attaches to the same point the primary actuator cable fixes to the lock latch. I then cut a small channel in the insulation around the lock so the cable laid flat and routed that cable around the chassis with cable ties, so it pokes out through an already made hole in the suspension turret on the RHS of the car as you look at the car from the front. So, I now have an emergency release cable I can access behind the wheel of the car and reach towards the suspension coil spring.
I must say, I'm really quite enjoying all this problem solving with your kit - though I bet it's a little frustrating for you, but one thing for sure - you will be learning so much more about how this kit works than if you installed and it all worked straight out the box - handy for when the kit ages and perhaps develops faults.