I was just hoping you had it calculated based upon the following equation:
factory track width - Factory wheel Offset + New wheels Offset + 1/2 of new rim width - 1/2 of factory rim width
Do I have it right??
Ah!
Technically, the center of the front wheels are only spaced ~12mm further out than OEM 20x9+35 (this +40 offset is nullified by the thicker rotor hats, meaning only the 12mm spacers really count).
So, the front track width is technically +24mm, and the rear offset (and therefore track width) is technically factory.
That said, an inspector might be skeptical based on the appearance. (I also think an engineer would not ignore this part either…). The
outer edges of the front
wheels are 37mm further out than stock on each side (+1” on either side of center, plus 12mm =37.4mm). Coincidently, because I added ~50mm to both the wheel width and tire width (9” to 11”, and 235 to 285, the outer edge of the tire also moved out by the same amount.
Just by the math alone, the
apparent track width is 3” wider.
Still, there’s more. The extra 2+ degrees of camber also moves each contact patch away from the center of the car by another 25mm on each side.
If track width is measured at the actual contact patch, which has been further displaced from centerline through suspension geometry, that makes the total increase in technical track width about 3”, and total increase in apparent track width about 125mm, or 5” (for the front).
Bottom line, there are arguably lots of ways one could measure (or report) the change in track width, depending how far into the weeds one wishes to go…
(Sorry I jumped back and forth between inches and metric so much……. If only there was a way we could just count using our 10 fingers instead of the lengths of random kings’ thumbs and feet…)