2nd run of camera switch that show a front image on the touch screen

[boaterva]

To clarify the Canbus mod: this is for people that want to set the new camera on the display all the time and have it switch to the standard reverse camera only when parking/in reverse. Then when you go forward again it will change back to the new forward camera.

Do I have that right?

I always drive with the back camera on, so I’m thinking this wouldn’t be of any use to me.

 

[artsci]

To clarify the Canbus mod: this is for people that want to set the new camera on the display all the time and have it switch to the standard reverse camera only when parking/in reverse. Then when you go forward again it will change back to the new forward camera.

Do I have that right?

I always drive with the back camera on, so I’m thinking this wouldn’t be of any use to me.

That's not it's purpose. It's to simplify the connections to ground, 12v power, and reverse. One connection between the OBD2 port and the camera switch PCB does it. You can set the PCB to operate however you want -- rear camera always on (my preference), a toggle for the front view using the remote or home link, front view always on -- your preference.

 

[boaterva]

That's not it's purpose. It's to simplify the connections to ground, 12v power, and reverse. One connection between the OBD2 port and the camera switch PCB does it. You can set the PCB to operate however you want -- rear camera always on (my preference), a toggle for the front view using the remote or home link, front view always on -- your preference.

Hm,’thanks, didn’t get that at all from the prior discussion, obviously; that does sound interesting.

If we want to also get power for say a dashcam, would there be a simple way to have extra power leads? I don’t know if I’ve seen piggyback sockets to stack OBDs so we could peel off power in between.


Edit: I should know better. Amazon has everything.

Here’s an OBD splitter that looks to be of better quality than most, and does all pins:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015649DHA/

 

[MP3Mike]

If we want to also get power for say a dashcam, would there be a simple way to have extra power leads? I don’t know if I’ve seen piggyback sockets to stack OBDs so we could peel off power in between.

I'd be careful pulling too much power from the OBD port, I have seen a number of people report that they blow the OBD fuse. (Which controls other things as well.)

 

[boaterva]

I'd be careful pulling too much power from the OBD port, I have seen a number of people report that they blow the OBD fuse. (Which controls other things as well.)

I’ve seen those reports, for sure. Perhaps the builders here can comment on the draw. I’d think they’d be minimal compared to the dashcam. They’re doing switching, not power functions. But I don’t recall what the fuse is on the circuit here (dang Tesla and the fuse panels!).

 

[appleguru]

Hm,’thanks, didn’t get that at all from the prior discussion, obviously; that does sound interesting.

If we want to also get power for say a dashcam, would there be a simple way to have extra power leads? I don’t know if I’ve seen piggyback sockets to stack OBDs so we could peel off power in between.


Edit: I should know better. Amazon has everything.

Here’s an OBD splitter that looks to be of better quality than most, and does all pins:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015649DHA/

I'm going to give you a screw terminal block that will be very easy to put an extra set of wires into for power to other deices (like a dash cam) if you need. As MP3Mike mentioned, just make sure you don't draw too much power (you should be fine with these deices though; all are pretty low power)

 

[appleguru]

I’ve seen those reports, for sure. Perhaps the builders here can comment on the draw. I’d think they’d be minimal compared to the dashcam. They’re doing switching, not power functions. But I don’t recall what the fuse is on the circuit here (dang Tesla and the fuse panels!).

On my car (2016 AP2) the fuse is 5A, and is F219. It runs the glove box light, and provides power to the OBD and diagnostics connector under the screen.

I'll try and grab some power measurements from my setup when I do testing this weekend.

 

[Akikiki]

Good news... I found my testing gear! it was in a bag at the bottom of my bedroom closet under a suitcase

Yeah, that's where I thought it was. But I wasn't dumb enough (today) to say anything because I figured you would ask how I knew. And honestly - I didn't have a good answer for that one.

 

[boaterva]

On my car (2016 AP2) the fuse is 5A, and is F219. It runs the glove box light, and provides power to the OBD and diagnostics connector under the screen.

I'll try and grab some power measurements from my setup when I do testing this weekend.

Yeah, googling came back with that fuse for the S and other results for an X. There is also the ‘switched’ circuit for use for 3rd party accessories but for a dash cam you want unswitched.

Sometimes Teslas are like the Manhattan project.

 

[Akikiki]

On my car (2016 AP2) the fuse is 5A, and is F219. It runs the glove box light, and provides power to the OBD and diagnostics connector under the screen.

I'll try and grab some power measurements from my setup when I do testing this weekend.

Good info appleguru. We need to be aware of the drain on the OBD II port. Mine is a 2017 AP2 S. And I blew that fuse a few months ago. It took me a while to figure out where the fuses were, which fuse it was. Even after I knew it was F219, the panel does not show you the label for the fuses. I learned the hard way that the OBD Ii port fuse was blown because two things would not work that were plugged in. And I agree with you, it powers the Glove box light. But SURPRISE, - SURPRISE it power something else less obvious, - the TPMS. The fuse panel is behind the passenger side kick panel. You have to remove the passenger side door sill trim to also remove the passenger side kick panel (under the dash).

I have the diagram (found it on TMC) for the fuses labels. I had to use a link to get my copy, because the TMC post said it may be proprietary info and should not posted on TMC. So, I too will not post it here. However, if you want a copy, PM me your email address and I will send you a copy.

(People make a note of this: And anyone that disagrees with me about the following info, please correct me. ) Fuse F219, right side column last fuse/and mounts horizontally is the F219 5 amp fuse. F219 is the last one in the column where the fuses are horizontal. (There are three fuses below it that mount vertically, F236, F237 and F221). F219 for the OBD II port also powers the glove box and the TPMS system. If the fuse is blown, the glove box light is out, and the TPMS birdseye view of the four tires will NOT display when you bring up the car's health on the instrument panel/dash. It simply will not display. Fix the fuse and bingo the glove box light works and the TPMS view returns (and the OBD II has power again. I've not found this info documented anywhere. Save the link or copy it some place where you can find it when you need it.

 

[crebelo]

Good info appleguru. We need to be aware of the drain on the OBD II port. Mine is a 2017 AP2 S. And I blew that fuse a few months ago. It took me a while to figure out where the fuses were, which fuse it was. Even after I knew it was F219, the panel does not show you the label for the fuses. I learned the hard way that the OBD Ii port fuse was blown because two things would not work that were plugged in. And I agree with you, it powers the Glove box light. But SURPRISE, - SURPRISE it power something else less obvious, - the TPMS. The fuse panel is behind the passenger side kick panel. You have to remove the passenger side door sill trim to also remove the passenger side kick panel (under the dash).

I have the diagram (found it on TMC) for the fuses labels. I had to use a link to get my copy, because the TMC post said it may be proprietary info and should not posted on TMC. So, I too will not post it here. However, if you want a copy, PM me your email address and I will send you a copy.

(People make a note of this: And anyone that disagrees with me about the following info, please correct me. ) Fuse F219, right side column last fuse/and mounts horizontally is the F219 5 amp fuse. F219 is the last one in the column where the fuses are horizontal. (There are three fuses below it that mount vertically, F236, F237 and F221). F219 for the OBD II port also powers the glove box and the TPMS system. If the fuse is blown, the glove box light is out, and the TPMS birdseye view of the four tires will NOT display when you bring up the car's health on the instrument panel/dash. It simply will not display. Fix the fuse and bingo the glove box light works and the TPMS view returns (and the OBD II has power again. I've not found this info documented anywhere. Save the link or copy it some place where you can find it when you need it.

I just recently blew that fuse using the OBD port to power my dash cam and can confirm that it powers the TPMS. I had to take my Model S in anyway because the motor in my steering wheel was going bad so luckily they replaced the fuse while it was there. I had a Blackvue 650s front and rear cam and the tech knew that I had an accessory plugged into the port even though I had it disconnected at the time. But, I think the main reason it blew was that I spliced my own cigarette lighter adapter (stupid me) which at the time only used to plug in a phone charger and my dash cam had a battery on it which I think is why it blew.

I just recently purchased the Owl dash cam which the only option to power it is through the OBD as it's always connected. I'm hoping using a splitter for this MOD won't blow the fuse again, I'm sure Tesla won't be so nice the second time around and replace it for free.

 

[boaterva]

I saw a thread last night when googling that I thought said that the fuse for the OBD, etc, was different for the Model X. And, of course, now I can't repro that.

To update my other post, I found that Tesla instruction sheet (posted on the other forum) that has the details for the 'sanctioned' connection to a switched circuit (on the MCU 'tunnel' on the passenger side, for Left Hand Drive cars). But I guess Tesla hasn't published/created one for nonswitched power (perhaps for internally obvious reasons).

But FWIW, the Blackvue 750S's manual says max power is 1 Amp (average 350 mA with WiFi and GPS both on). I would hope that plus this mod(s) would never (properly) come close to overwhelming the OBD circuit's fuse. (Even with the TPMS, glovebox, etc. added.)

 

[artsci]

For those concerned about blowing the fuse for the OBD2 port why not rig an inline fuse with a slightly lower amp rating that’s much easier to access than the Tesla fuse?

 

[boaterva]

For those concerned about blowing the fuse for the OBD2 port why not rig an inline fuse with a slightly lower amp rating that’s much easier to access than the Tesla fuse?

The Blackvues have their own in the 'cigarette lighter' adapter; I just checked in my 900 (waiting to be installed with the camera kit! ), but I can't see any rating on the fuse. Thin wire type...

 

[Tech_Guy]

The Blackvues have their own in the 'cigarette lighter' adapter; I just checked in my 900 (waiting to be installed with the camera kit! ), but I can't see any rating on the fuse. Thin wire type...

should be listed on the fuse / imprinted on the side of the metal

 

[Akikiki]

should be listed on the fuse / imprinted on the side of the metal

I'm sure it is. And all you young whipper-snappers can read it. But some of us - ME- are going to have to buy a pair of 5.00 magnifier readers from Amazon just to read that print.

 

[boaterva]

I'm sure it is. And you young whipper-snapper can read it. But some of us - ME- are going to have to buy a pair of 5.00 magnifier readers from Amazon just to read that print.

Tell me about it... I use the handy-dandy iPhone accessibility triple-tab the button to bring up the camera set at 3X..

No go, this is one of them, far east fuses, and danged if there's a mark on it. I'll try again tonight.

 

[HankLloydRight]

For anyone needing to split power off the OBDII port, I highly recommend these low power snap connectors. I use these all the time for project kits, auto wiring radar detectors, dashcams, front camera switch, and my EV-Horn.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00T2U76V0

And in order to do power sharing/splitting, they sell premade three-way and four-way splitters:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013ATC2SA
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013ATI80G

(images are still busted )

 

[Akikiki]

I agree. These pigtails and splitters are great. I use them in many places for light duty on the car. Even my connector going to my dashcams, remote relays and trunk lights.

 

[boaterva]

Hate to sidetrack this with parts orders, maybe we need a parts thread...

Sent an email to [email protected] last Thursday (included legal name and VIN), with a request for info on ordering the camera cables, and got crickets after these several days.

Am I too impatient? Anyone know if Tysons (Tyco Virginia) answers parts inquiries via email?