I recently got a warning that the 12V Battery on my 2015 Model S RWD was dying. I started looking into my options and decided to post my experience as the 2015 Model S seems to be a slight anomaly. My battery is hidden way up on the passenger side next to the wheel well. Electrified Garage has a nice video of what appears to be a 2015 Model S but his battery is in a MUCH easier position. I don't understand because my car (I've had it since new - 90k miles now) was a December 2015 car and they even asked me if I wanted to take delivery in January 2016 and call it a 2016. In any case this replacement:
Is not the same as what I experienced. It is from a dual motor car and is easier. My 2015 Model S is more like the one shown in this Electrified Garage video for 2012-104.
1st I tried to see what Tesla would charge for either the mobile service with installation or to sell me the battery. It proved very difficult to figure out. I had to use the app as no one at my local Service Center would answer the phone. Initially, I got a quote for $222 installed. Then it mysteriously went up to $274 (maybe they figured out I had a RWD car and it was much more labor?). By this point, I had dismantled the car and retrieved the battery but was regretting it. I finally was able to chat with someone and got a quote of $174 for just the battery. BUT, I couldn't tell if they had one in stock and it's about a 30 min drive so I decided to check out other options.
My wife has a 2017 Model S dual motor and a few years ago It died on a holiday (had to jump it) so I hacked a Dura12-35C Duracell 12 Volt 35 amp hour AGM battery from Batteries + Bulbs. I ended up doing the same this time. It is a royal pain but it can be done. So, unless you are:
Poor
Cheap
Stupid or
Need your car immediately and can't wait for Tesla Mobile Service,
I DO NOT RECOMMEND doing this! That said, here's how you can get it done for a hair over $100
Some notes:
1) I forgot to turn off the car (power down) using Safety/Security, Power OFF. Make sure to have the Frunk open, windows down or doors open too when starting
2) Instead of hacking the Tesla Adapters (at least for the negative terminal) you could find an M6 to SAE adapter that would be simpler
https://www.amazon.com/XS-Power-586-Adaptor-Thread/dp/B004XH69MY/ref=psdc_15720011_t3_B09931DD3S
3) This is a U1 battery and Interstate and others have them but it seems the terminals are always the opposite of the Tesla OEM battery and it has M6 (6mm) holes instead of the OEM battery's M4 (4mm) holes. I've purchased two now from Batteries + Bulbs and the one in our 2017 Model S dual motor seems fine and the recent
replacement on the 2015 RWD as well
(even cheaper option but given the labor involved I would buy a name brand locally if possible)
If any of you others out there decide to go down this path please post your results but DON'T blame me!
If anyone knows the chronology of when they changed the positions of the battery please post - I couldn't find any info until I started digging under the hood.
Is not the same as what I experienced. It is from a dual motor car and is easier. My 2015 Model S is more like the one shown in this Electrified Garage video for 2012-104.
1st I tried to see what Tesla would charge for either the mobile service with installation or to sell me the battery. It proved very difficult to figure out. I had to use the app as no one at my local Service Center would answer the phone. Initially, I got a quote for $222 installed. Then it mysteriously went up to $274 (maybe they figured out I had a RWD car and it was much more labor?). By this point, I had dismantled the car and retrieved the battery but was regretting it. I finally was able to chat with someone and got a quote of $174 for just the battery. BUT, I couldn't tell if they had one in stock and it's about a 30 min drive so I decided to check out other options.
My wife has a 2017 Model S dual motor and a few years ago It died on a holiday (had to jump it) so I hacked a Dura12-35C Duracell 12 Volt 35 amp hour AGM battery from Batteries + Bulbs. I ended up doing the same this time. It is a royal pain but it can be done. So, unless you are:
Poor
Cheap
Stupid or
Need your car immediately and can't wait for Tesla Mobile Service,
I DO NOT RECOMMEND doing this! That said, here's how you can get it done for a hair over $100
Some notes:
1) I forgot to turn off the car (power down) using Safety/Security, Power OFF. Make sure to have the Frunk open, windows down or doors open too when starting
2) Instead of hacking the Tesla Adapters (at least for the negative terminal) you could find an M6 to SAE adapter that would be simpler
https://www.amazon.com/XS-Power-586-Adaptor-Thread/dp/B004XH69MY/ref=psdc_15720011_t3_B09931DD3S
3) This is a U1 battery and Interstate and others have them but it seems the terminals are always the opposite of the Tesla OEM battery and it has M6 (6mm) holes instead of the OEM battery's M4 (4mm) holes. I've purchased two now from Batteries + Bulbs and the one in our 2017 Model S dual motor seems fine and the recent
replacement on the 2015 RWD as well
(even cheaper option but given the labor involved I would buy a name brand locally if possible)
If any of you others out there decide to go down this path please post your results but DON'T blame me!
If anyone knows the chronology of when they changed the positions of the battery please post - I couldn't find any info until I started digging under the hood.
