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LV Battery 12V vs 16V

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According to this post, the outlet outputs 14.2-15.7V depending on battery charge:

There is no step down circuit. Peak is probably 16V OCV (battery label says it is a 4S configuration, so that works out to 4.0V at cell level). That's why the manual warns whatever you plug into it must support 16V (it warns against inverters in particular).
 
Anyone know how to connect accessories to the positive terminal on the 2022+ Model 3? The positive terminal on the newer Model 3 is just a bar with 3 slits. You can't screw anything to it. Is there a good way to connect 12v accessories to this? I'm trying to install the auto door handle and the power frunk and need to attach the positive wire to the positive terminal the Li battery.

Thanks in advance!
 
While we're bodging stuff up...

As alternative to taking off the 16V system.

Is there a way to get USB-C "in the dark" so to speak. By that I mean nobody can unplug it from inside the cabin.

Weird one I know, but a taxi passenger / driver recorder must be independently powered up by the car being started, not able to be turned off.
 
Anyone know how to connect accessories to the positive terminal on the 2022+ Model 3? The positive terminal on the newer Model 3 is just a bar with 3 slits. You can't screw anything to it. Is there a good way to connect 12v accessories to this? I'm trying to install the auto door handle and the power frunk and need to attach the positive wire to the positive terminal the Li battery.

Thanks in advance!
I think they really don't want you doing that so it's probably best not try.

The 16v battery has less than 7Ah of juice in it. You can't run accessories on 16v for very long before you kill it. While doing duty for the car it is maintained at 85 to 95%.

Also the car won't sleep while there is some phantom draw happening. No sleep equals no HV battery rebalancing happening. Bad bad bad.

If whatever you connect off reservation has a little draw to earth going on you will have much bigger problems than a sluggish 16V.

Get your 16v from the cars own accessory sockets and make do with whatever that allows. No extra subwoofer amp for you then I am guessing.

Btw this is on the Model Y side of the fence.
 
While we're bodging stuff up...

As alternative to taking off the 16V system.

Is there a way to get USB-C "in the dark" so to speak. By that I mean nobody can unplug it from inside the cabin.

Weird one I know, but a taxi passenger / driver recorder must be independently powered up by the car being started, not able to be turned off.
Power it off the USB in the glovebox, lock the glovebox with a PIN. Use a small hub if you want to leave the dashcam enabled. I use this Anker hub:
 
I think they really don't want you doing that so it's probably best not try.

The 16v battery has less than 7Ah of juice in it. You can't run accessories on 16v for very long before you kill it. While doing duty for the car it is maintained at 85 to 95%.

Also the car won't sleep while there is some phantom draw happening. No sleep equals no HV battery rebalancing happening. Bad bad bad.

If whatever you connect off reservation has a little draw to earth going on you will have much bigger problems than a sluggish 16V.

Get your 16v from the cars own accessory sockets and make do with whatever that allows. No extra subwoofer amp for you then I am guessing.

Btw this is on the Model Y side of the fence.

What's the difference if the accessory is connected directly to the battery terminal or somewhere in the car? It's on the same circuit drawing from the same battery so it will still drain the battery from a connection inside the car right?
 
What's the difference if the accessory is connected directly to the battery terminal or somewhere in the car? It's on the same circuit drawing from the same battery so it will still drain the battery from a connection inside the car right?
If you plug into the accessory ports, those shut down when the car goes to sleep so there is no additional vampire drain. If you connect directly to the battery terminal, the vampire drain is permanent even when the car is asleep.

The other thing is there is overload protection when using the ports inside.
 
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If you plug into the accessory ports, those shut down when the car goes to sleep so there is no additional vampire drain. If you connect directly to the battery terminal, the vampire drain is permanent even when the car is asleep.

The other thing is there is overload protection when using the ports inside.

But for the frunk and the door handle auto present, don't you want it to be on all the time otherwise if it goes to sleep you couldn't use the auto present handle or open the power frunk?
 
Close but no cigar.

Power has to come from somewhere the driver cannot get at it.

The recording unit has to be secured from tampering as well. Probably taking over a chunk of the frunk.
I assumed you were trying to protect it from passengers or people borrowing the car, not the owner/driver.

Does the trunk work? You could use a cigarette lighter to USB-C power cord in the accessory outlet behind the left rear wheel.
 
What's the difference if the accessory is connected directly to the battery terminal or somewhere in the car? It's on the same circuit drawing from the same battery so it will still drain the battery from a connection inside the car right?
The difference is access. I tried to keep it short but I guess I will have to give the long version.

Power is needed for a taxi cam. These are govt mandated spycams in taxis that ostensibly protect drivers from aggro customers and customers from dirty bastard cabbies. The recorder is installed into the bodywork where it can't be got at easily by someone who steals a cab or bashes the driver, or equally a nefarious driver who wants to erase evidence of his crime. Same goes for the power supply so a driver can't temporarily disable it easily. Can't be having some drunken female taken advantage of at will!

It seems I will need a takeoff from the Aux circuit feeding my own Li battery all locked up in the frunk. Said takeoff should be after the overload protection. Any suggestions?

Other option is a hack of a USB-C to my Li which would be essentially plug and play in that some of those aux power packs are made to measure, charge USB and output 12V. Hacking USB sounds fiddly in the excess though.
 
Does the trunk work? You could use a cigarette lighter to USB-C power cord in the accessory outlet behind the left rear wheel
It would have to be done in the blind. "Cig to USB" converts 16V to USB and power pack sucks on that whenever the car is on.

I would much rather have battery and recorder storage box conflagration messing up the frunk rather than the trunk. Frunk is next to useless for luggage as a starting position.

Other option is cannibalize some passenger underseat storage if it exists? Passenger footwell under glovebox maybe?

Still waiting on a delivery date btw.