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2014 P85d High Voltage Failure

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Amazing write up. I have BMS_u029 error. Gonna drop my 14 module 2013 Model S60 and replace module #9 showing low voltage on one brick. What are people liking for tools to remove the lid? Anyone used an oscilating tool yet? Thanks all!
Gruber has a video showing an oscilating tool. The blade needs a step in it to work correctly. I used the side of a breaker bar which wasn't ideal. Also - I also cut one of the coolant tubes during the lid removal which caused a giant PITA so proceed carefully. Some of the coolant tubes can be right at the union of the lid and the case.
 
My 2014 was December 2014 but the battery was replaced in Q1-2015. It was a new pack and I'm not sure 'why'. The original owner mentioned it, but I didn't know enough at the time to ask more details.
Nice. In some ways I wish I had more time and a garage to work on the pack my self (have knowledge and skill) but it was almost cheaper to buy a new M3P. I miss the off the line torque the P85D Ludicrous had, but not the fall off after 30 mph.

Apparently after charging to 50% the day before an unrelated Service Appointment (window seal and motor check), battery gave errors on the way to the Service Center then it wouldn't take a charge while it was in their hands and they then told me the battery was shorted. Two banks had 2.7-2.8v probably due to a couple bad cells and drained the battery to 0% within a few days. So odd that I take it in working fine then it wasn't able to drive out. I would have happily converted to a 350v pack, but like I said, shop or garage access is key.
 
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Mack,

Since you have the pack open, I would recommend checking all of the modules carefully. There are 112 sensor wire connections plus the BMB boards to check. I poked all of mine with a plastic tool, cleaned each with 200 proof alcohol and recoated each with another layer of conformal coating to help insure no moisture gets in. I did the same with the capacitors on each BMB. It took a lot of time (10 hours?), but when one thing fails in these, there are a LOT of similar connections/components that could be right behind.

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I am in process of removing the modules
 

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Here is update on my HV pack dismantling process, Water ingress was through pyro fuse cover which got rusted due to dirt and water accumulation over the years. Other than pant house moister remaining pack is dry. I am still opening the rest of pack and removing all the umbrella valves with the new ones from Tesla, $6X14, Fuse cover $40.
Now I need help in testing the pack and sealing process from our senior members and experts in this field.
Here are some photos and videos:

Thanks
 

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Did you remove the modules to confirm they are dry? The water seems to wick under the shields and you can't tell if there is any moisture/water with the modules in place. It is also prudent to check for corrosion on your C26 and C27 capacitors. The lower plastic battery shield makes contact with them and vibrations wear through the conformal coating. Lastly, be sure to pressure test your coolant loop before you close things back up. I cut one of the coolant tubes in mine removing the lid and it wasn't evident until I flooded everything with coolant - not something you want to deal with...
 
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I got lucky with my pack, as I did not move MS at all once SC gave report that battery needs replacement. Due to that decision water ingress was only in pyro fuse plastic box and little bit outside due to the angle towing truck was tilting the MS. I was waiting for weather to get batter and place where I can open the HV pack. My pyro fuse cover was really bad and I would suggest everyone who wants to get into used MS, please drop the pack and check pyro fuse cover and simply replace it as it is only $40, and replace the pyro fuse(used or new) a the same time. This way you know the condition of the pack for any water ingress problems.

I have dried the pack and would be installing embed moister sensor in pent house just on top of orange air breather section which has 30 degree steel angled plate near cooling quick connector, as suggested by senior members.


Here are some pictures and video from current progress. link

Work in progress, thanks for guidance from members who have gone this path.
 

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fyro fuse Can the pyro fuse cover be inspected without dropping the pack? Is there a view through the frunk?
It depends on which version of battery pack do you have, version 1,0, 1.5 have pyro fuse on top, which can be replaced after dropping the HV pack, version 2.0 pyro fuse cover is at the bottom of the pack which can be replaced by lifting the car up

Can the pyro fuse cover be inspected without dropping the pack? Is there a view through the frunk?
 

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