I have a 2 inch crack in the lower passenger side windscreen from a motorway trip on Wednesday night (sounded like a half ). Checking with Tesla technical documentation it says nothing should be repaired in this section, and Autoglass decision tree also confirmed this. Going through the booking process, you have the option of via the insurance or to pay for the repair; out of interest I clicked the pay option. The quote was over £3k, this will be an insurance job but can’t help wondering how they arrived at the figure, for what is 3-5h work?

Hello everyone,

I have a 2024 Model Y with 400 miles. While at the store, I noticed my trunk will not open via the app or the touch screen. I try to manually open it but that did not work as well. The trunk will try to open but then re-close as if something is stuck. Anybody has this issue and if so, how was it resolved?

Just a had a quick look at one of these as I noticed it at the local Ford dealer. I only had five minutes.

Yeah, I don't think much of it, I can't believe people say Tesla's have a poor build quality, this think felt like a $35k car.

Door cars are flimsy, the door release button is mechanical in some awkward position, rear seat room is significantly smaller than the Model Y. The rotary gear selector seems pointless, along with the start/stop and brake buttons Climate control wouldn't switch on without the fob. The GT model had a nice dark headliner and suede seats.

Forward visibility also poor because of the Mustang styling.

Seems completely UN-compelling at the price.

Worth just checking it just to see however.

I am on my. 12th pothole casualty. 4 in last two weeks. Anyone in here move down in size? Experience?

As per the title, Tesla showing initial estimates based on my home zip code but after ordering, purchase agreement showing sales tax based on their sales center location. Any suggestions? This is n Illinois where state has 6.25% tax with some counties adding additional tax which my county doesn’t have. Isn’t the calculation supposed to be based on registration address for buyer ?

ok so my bachelors is in engineering (focused on materials) so I am fully aware that most stainless steels rust or at least stain. But will all the hype over the last 4 years about how tough and durable the CT SS body would be this seems a little ridiculous. There are “easy” ways to prevent or greatly delay rust and stains.

Make me think more and more the only real world testing they did was Elon rolling around SoCal.

Tesla Cybertrucks Are Rusting. There Are Fixes for That.
https://www.barrons.com/articles/tesla-cybertrucks-rusting-fixes-f10209fb?st=63m6ojp6dkgqggu

Hello!
I test-drove used Plaid today; the car was very slow for some reason. I switched acceleration into sport or plaid mode but nothing changed. It was slower than my model 3 RWD. What is wrong? There are no warning messages. Maybe that’s because the remaining range was only 20mi?

Hey All,

2013 Model S, headed to the airport during a storm and hit several points where I floated the car. I made it to the airport just fine but 4 days later returned to the car with a dead 12 V battery. Tried to jump start it with no luck and found the dreaded isolation fault codes. I have a machines and electronics background so am going to take a stab at repair before buying a new pack. After seeing a few threads here have a newfound hope I'll be able to dry this thing out and may just repair a few cells in the process.

A couple up front questions I couldn't find after an hour or two of searching.

What sockets do I need for the HV battery removal?
Do I disconnect the coolant lines and electrical connections prior to lowering the battery?


Anyway, here are the codes. I am guessing water ingress with damaged to some BMBs.. Just ordered the OBDlink and patch cable, so hoping to get battery voltages and more info soon.

BMS_U018 SOC Imbalance Limiting
BMS_W158 Low Isolation Wrn
GTW_w405 12V Not Supported
GTW_w018 hvac load shed
BMS_u008 Limp Mode
BMS_w172 SW Drive ISO Warning
BMS_w142 SW Isolation Degradation
BMS_w123 Internal Isolation
BMS_w110 SW Vsense
BMS_w059 Pack Voltage Sensing
BMS_w050 SW BMB MIA
BMS_w026 SW Ctrs Disabled
BMS_F110 SW Module Vsense
BMS_f050 SW BMB MIA

Well I've never had a car fail an MOT at 4 years old, but there's a first time for everything!

1) Rear brake discs and pads need changing due to rust and disc fluctuation.
2) Rear upper suspension arm play - needs replacing

and an advisory for both front lower front suspension arms!

Car is out of warranty so a grand to pay if all done.

Already been advised that next year will need front brakes....

Bearing in mind that is has already had this work under warranty , are they that good in the quality dept?!

Rear bumper as delivered with a massive scratch
Rear boot loom
Upper Front suspension arms
2x rear spoilers
Front wing and bonnet respray

Feeling disappointed with Tesla tonight!

After more than 7years and >23MWh of throughput my eHome Wallbox dumb EVSE has started randomly tripping a 40a breaker. No visible scorching / issues inter After the third event today when there wasn’t anyone home and nothing plugged in enough is enough.

We have full control over charging time / current through the Tesla app and dont want the faff and failure points associated with a smart charger and another app that may or may not be supported in the future.

As such we are looking for a replacement dumb EVSE - the simpler and cheaper the better. And ideally one where we can reuse our existing tethered cable.

Any suggestions or recommendations ? Am happy to DIY it even if such kits exist.

Hello,

Question for people who have got their Cyber Truck. My Truck was offloaded on Saturday around 10am at the dealership here in South Florida. The service advisor immediately sent me a text asking when I want to pick it up. I told them NOW of course.....They replied a few hours later and said I can pickup on Tuesday......

Now, this is the first delivery of the cyber truck at this little service station. Why do they need 3 full day's of my truck at the service center? I have my suspicion, but I wanted to hear from others what the average timeframe is once a truck is delivered to the service center, how long till they received it?

As a follow up question, how many miles did you have when you picked it up?

Planning on driving there this morning to see if my truck I paid cash for is being pimped out around town for their enjoyment, unless I hear from you all otherwise. Thanks!

Hey all,

I've had a 2022 M3P Red/white since December 2021. Originally ordered a 2022 MSLR but due to shortages at the time, the delivery was far out (april/may 2022) and I had just sold my old car for a good amount of cash (when the market was up) so I needed a car relatively quickly. Ordered the M3P and got a VIN within 10 business days.

I love my M3P, but I've had this lingering regret, wanted the hatch back, the air suspension, comfier interior, etc etc.

With the recent price drops, I'm now cross shopping the MSP (red/white, FSD, arachnids) with the new Macan Turbo EV. Part of me is leaning Porsche, the other Tesla. Configured, both are within about 5K of each other here in Canada.

Anyone else have thoughts ont his? Specifically with the tesla, it's the small things I think I will greatly miss on the Porsche, particularly:

• Sentry mode
• Ability to see the cameras from the app
• Dog mode
• Tesla App (I hear MyPorsche is crap)
• Automations (on my iPhone, I have a bunch of automations to trigger defrost, car prep, frunk using Siri)
• Continuous software updates/tweaks
• Auto seat/steering wheel heating/ventilation (amazing how many cars don't have auto mode for this)
• EAP/FSD (I don't have EAP/FSD on my M3P, but a friend does and it's nice, esp. for highway driving).

I have no doubt the Porsche will be better made, higher quality, likely more reliable. But it's the small quality of life things that keep pushing me towards the Tesla. My M3P has been perfect, no issues, hasn't been to the garage (maybe I got lucky?), and I put a full PPF on it, which I plan to do if I get the MSP.

Am I crazy cross shopping these, or leaning more towards the Tesla??

Hello, I want to start off by stating that I am not sponsored by Raceland Coilovers. I have been scouting for lowering springs for a while but due to owning the Model 3 RWD with the LFP battery the only company that proved fitment was Eibach. So I started searching coilovers and I constantly seen MPP, KW, Tein and a few others. But then in January I came across a few instagram posts of Raceland coilovers for our Tesla and I have to admit I was a bit hesitant till a enthusiast friend of mine told me he ran them on his 335i with no issues. So given his experience I pulled the trigger on them and for a little over $550 which is not much for a full set of coilovers. When they came in they were packaged nicely and upon observing the welds they were great. The front set were powdercoated red springs with gloss back body and came with their own set of nuts. The rears are powdercoated red springs and a matte black body and the oem shock mount bolts have to be reused. These are meant to be plug and play with no need of transferring your oem top hats over or shock mounts. Install took me about three hours in total for all four sides and it was way easier than my previous BMW m5. I would not that the rear rubber spring isolators fit nicely with no modification too. I am in love from how these handle after install, I went over bumps and they were not bouncy at all and the car feels nicely planted to the road. I would compare it to handle like the MPP coilover set that a buddy of mine installed in his model3. I took it out to an open parking lot and with the wheel fully turned there was minimal body roll. I do not plan on tracking my Tesla at all and this purchase was intended to eliminate the wheel gap and improve handling which I am glad it did! I will wait another week or so when I get my new wheels installed and for the coilovers to settle to get an alignment. As an enthusiast I have noticed there are products that are not highly talked about due to other competitors that completely flood these forums with brand ambassadors recommending products that they get a commission on. I am still a believer that there are great low cost products for our vehicles without the middleman markup! I included a few pictures of the Raceland coilovers before installing and afterwards to point out how they look and the quality of them. Let the comments begin

I replaced a 2021 Standard range/RWD with a 2024 Standard/RWD. I work remotely and it's a 2nd car for our family so the standard range has been plenty for our needs.
From various reviews online, people were saying the less speakers didn't make much of a difference, but I completely disagree. The extra speakers and sub make a significant difference. If you just listen to podcasts and talk radio it's probably fine, but not with music.
I'm wondering if anyone knows answers to the following questions:

1) Since the reduction is from 13 speakers to 7 (not including the sub), are the 6 speakers that are missing the following:
- tweeters on A pillar
- speakers on door near side mirrors
- speakers on tailgate

2) There are a few wiring harness kits out there for the model 3 that activate the speakers in the door and pillar. Is this the same for the Model Y (the speakers are there but just not wired)?

3) If I can salvage a factory sub and amp from a older Model Y, is there an existing wiring harnes this can this be plugged into? Not sure if this will work as the audio settings in the UI currently do not show a setting for the sub. Not sure if this setting will appear if a sub and amp are added.

My 2022 model x had a box for tow hitch. Aside from lacking charging adaptor and key fobs, is Tesla no longer giving tow hitch?

New Supercharger under construction at 929 W foothill Blvd. 16+ pre-fab supercharger concrete bases on site.

So i live on the road and i need a way to charge my laptop. My laptop charger is 150w so i found this 150w converter. Is this safe to use, Would this harm the battery of the car in anyway? Also if theres any techs, would it be safe for the laptop too?

I park my car in an old shed/garage and noticed the smell of urine two weeks ago. Took out the frunk and found droppings that are typical of what you see on Tesla forums and YouTube tutorials.

This week I went ALL OUT on rat prevention. Took out the drunk and thoroughly cleaned, disinfected with a wet-dry vac, multiple times. Installed repellent diffusers, sprayed peppermint oil nightly, and installed TWO Ultrasonic audio emitters as well as double sided tape. Additionally I emptied my whole garage, cleaned and disinfected, decluttered, and installed chicken wire around the entire interior perimeter about a foot high, over some holes in the Sheetrock that I assumed were the entry point.

After a week of busting ass on this today I walked in and there was a fresh rat turd under the car, approx right under the center console location. I popped the frunk and two more fresh poops were 6” from the diffuser can and the feint smell of urine.

Absolutely at my wits end. The shed is old but I cannot afford to tear it down/rebuild another. I have absolutely no clue how it got in, unless it jumped down from the ceiling?!

The only thing I can think is that the rat(s) never left the car for the entire week it took to do all this work? Where else do rodents go in the car? Can I easily remove other panels to access common problem areas?

Also, is it possible to let the car sit somewhere “cold” and unplugged so the rat(s) lose interest b/c there’s no heat generated? Or will it still kick out a heat source?

Other clues: There’s no food source anywhere. I dont eat in, or allow eating in my car. The opposite side of the glove box has nibbles in the frunk area, but they haven’t gotten inside the car or glovebox.

Any help appreciated b/c I just invested about 25 hours of work into this and failed. Driving me crazy.

In case anyone was thinking of getting the Gemini wheel cap kit for $90, there is literally no difference to the ones on Amazon for under $20. The quality is identical (plastic seems the same) and I actually think the ones I got Here have tighter fitting lug nut covers. A few of the Tesla lug nut covers were a little loose, I have a feeling they would fly off when driving.

Save yourself some money because I do not see any difference. Awful photo in between rain squalls, but here is the black amazon cap vs. the Tesla silver cap. I ended up not using the lug nut covers because the bolts without caps looked better to me.

So.

I had a problem about 1 month ago. The Tesla died out of nowhere.

Got it to Tesla and got a new 12v. Worked fine for about a week. After this it died again. (Died meaning totally unresponsive).

I got another appointment after this and they had the car for about 2 weeks with the response ”tightened the 12v bolts, no problem, car now works fine”.

Got it back. About 10 days ago again - dead.

The only thing connecting these 3 times is the temperature. all three times the temperature was below 0 degrees celsius, so as soon as its frosty.

Any idea guys?

I've read every post I can find, and I'm still here wondering if there's something off with my battery. I did a full charge last night as I was going somewhere today and my range at 100% was 304 miles. I did notice the range on the Tesla website for the MYLR recently changed to 310 miles (was 330 when I bought it 2 weeks ago).

What I am curious about is why after only driving 9 miles since the charge, this morning my car was at 90% and my range now says 273 miles. The math doesn't add up. I know everyone says ignore the range and just focus on percentage, but I'm still scratching my head. The only thing I can think of is leaving it in sentry mode overnight is responsible for the missing 22 miles of range.

Sorry if this has been covered ad nauseum, I'm just looking for clarification that my battery is working as expected. Thanks for any help in advance.

So my car has a flat, I've booked a tyre replacement with the service centre and they've just told me that the tyre is on order and they'll let me know when it arrives.

Firstly it's a bit crazy that they don't keep any tyres in stock. I've got the regular M3 wheels, so no idea why they don't have any available.

Does anyone have any experience with this recently and knows how long it usually takes to get the tyres in? Trying to decide whether I should just wait or try to get some mobile tyre fitting option.

All I ever seem to get is 6 - 7 kW from type 2 public chargers , they are free but is that the standard range. Also what’s the + digit kWh

Draadje om ervaringen te delen.
Ik begin alvast met mijn RWD highland:

Zojuist de Matrix LED uitgeprobeerd in de provinciale wegen. Setting: 60 weg met bomen aan iedere zijde en ernaast een fietspad (weilanden rondom Utrecht). Het is een goede work-in-progress. De cameras detecteren aankomende autos best goed maar fietsers zonder felle belichting niet (logisch). Dus zo’n kleine lampje om onder een boete uit te komen is niet genoeg voor de camera. Kreeg rare opmerkingen van fietsers.. Zodra het donker genoeg is werkt Matrix LED automatisch. Je hoeft verder geen knop in te drukken. Dimmen doet hij op twee manieren.
1. Hij zet je high beams aan 1 zijde helemaal uit. Dit doet de auto als hij objecten niet goed kan uitmaken.
2. De LED koplampen werken in verticale strepen die afhankelijk van de tegemoetkomende auto sequentieel aan en uit gaan.

Doordat de camera relatief hoog zit vergeleken met de gemiddelde rijpositie, herkent de auto tegemoetkomers best goed in situaties waar tussen jou en de andere auto een heg of een rail is. In bochten kan de auto actief meerdere autos verduisteren en de rest goed belichten.

In 60 wegen die door dorpen lopen gaan de matrix LED’s niet uit. Ze blijven aan. Dat is niet altijd even fijn omdat je dan direct in de woonkamer van iemand je high beams straalt. Bovendien zijn er in een dorp relatief veel borden die teveel licht reflecteren.

Ik denk dat dit een goed begin is maar zeker nog wat werk nodig heeft. Ik had momenten waar de auto af en toe net iets te laat een tegemoetkomer herkende. Heb in ieder geval naast een aantal boze fietsers geen boze automobilisten gezien.