Could this be V12 of the UI?

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Your Tesla gets better while you sleep

Highlights from our upcoming Spring Release below

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Visual updates (Model 3/Y with AMD chip)
– Immersive full-screen vehicle controls when parked
– Large playback controls & quick access to Recents, Favorites & Up Next in media player
– Expandable Autopilot driving visualizations, with a smaller map in the top right for trip guidance

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Auto Shift Beta (Model S/X 2021 & later)

Auto Shift (Beta) can now also shift between Drive (D) & Reverse (R) based on your surroundings, in addition to shifting out of Park (P).

Vehicle settings > Pedals & Steering > Auto Shift (Beta)


Audible

@audible_com is now available as a native media app.

Spotify queue & playback speed

You can now sync your @Spotify queue across vehicles & devices & adjust playback speed.

Hands-Free Trunk (Model S/X 2021 & later, upgraded Model 3)

Stand still behind your trunk with Phone Key & the trunk will open on its own.

Vehicle settings > Locks > Hands-Free Trunk


Preview of Sentry Mode Recordings (select countries)

Preview a brief clip of Sentry Mode recording on your phone if alarm is triggered by pressing & holding notification.


Increased Regenerative Braking on Highway (Model S/X 2021 & later)

At high speeds, your vehicle now allows for more regenerative braking, meaning more energy can return to the battery.

Are we there yet??

Rear passengers can now see current trip details, time & temperature at the top of the rear touchscreen

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What I want is to avoid drilling through my rack to attach the taxicab top light. It also needs to be easily demounted without taking off the top cover. Bit of an ask.

Can leave hardware behind on the rack so long as the light comes off cleanly. Less is more as it's wind resistance I don't need. The light is a bloody sail all by itself.

I had a perfectly good custom fitting and I binned it because "I'll never need that again". I almost never do that! To buy or make another would cost more than I have in kitty right now and I need something right now.

Any cunning ideas? I have a couple but there's always a better one so I thought I would see what's out there.

Thinking caps on?My ideas at the bottom if you got nothing.

Three holes in the base plate doesn't need any more adding I think. Down the middle long ways. Could easily get away with using two.

It currently has three big magnets to stop it sailing off a metal roof. ( That's how I figured I didn't have any use for the vintage style clip in shoe gizmos, never figured on a glass roof )

Can anyone remember the allowable rack load off the top of their heads? Save me looking it up. I only remember it's less than I am used to.

My ideas revolve around a big tub of thermoplastic beads I already have. Thermoplastic is tough as nylon but melts in 60°C to work it.

A pair of top feet and a pair of bottom shoes that slide in.

Mount the bottom shoes with captive bolts that slide into the rail, washers and nyloc nuts. From memory square captive nuts usually slide into the rack rail with the end caps off but otherwise installed, accessories bolt down to the nuts. Doing it the other way so can use nylocs.

Could have them go around the rail and complete with screws and only need one bolt in the rail to stop any sideways wriggle action.

Or could thermal plastically ensure it can't leave as well without more heat but it would get a lot more bush looking.

Screw rotating flap to retain feet sideways.

I think any solution has to rely on the whole bar cross section resisting the toppling effect at 100kph not just bar inset bolts.

My rack has to wait for Tesla to install. After the tail light debacle I am not touching it even though it's a doddle to follow the instructions. So could someone please measure the clear width of bar at the narrow end on MY?

I want to give them my hardware to go on if it has to go on before installation. Ideally the design would not require that.

Does anyone know if Tesla already has an updated yoke with better material for warranty replacements? My first yoke was replaced 12 months ago and the replacement yoke started peeling again 3 months ago.. Makes no sense to replace with a yoke with a yoke using the same material.

Once again, Tesla UI engineers failed with a software update. Here's what's wrong or still wrong in my Model 3:

1. No TENTHS digit in the odometer! Still! After 2 years! I want it back! There is no good reason to not display it!

2. The radio now does not start playing the current sound piece over from the very beginning every time you get back in the car. That's good, but what I really said was that I want to be able to turn it off and on as needed. Some things I want to hear again, some I do not.

3. Increased auto headlight annoyance. I kept noticing last week that the headlights were on during a drive even after I was sure I turned them off. I figured it out. It seems that the headlights, even when manually turned off, turn themselves on to Auto when you engage autopilot. I don't like that. It is not needed most of the time, and I don't want my headlights on in the daytime no matter what! Even if I have to break AP to change lanes, the lights go back to Auto when I re-engage it. But I'll show them, I will still manually turn them off each time! I WILL NOT have my headlights on in daytime!!!

Someone forward this to the UI engineers at Tesla, we need to have a video conference so I can tell them what they are doing wrong.

This thread is for the general discussion of the marketplace listing Model 3 Aero wheels/tires/covers (no TPMS) - Maryland. Please add to the discussion here.

Who else is in?

"Notify Me" clicked!

The purpose of this thread is to:


Post a quick update of the most recent delivery data including the highest reported VIN (include your country if outside the USA) shown in Wiki post #2 below:

Update, 17 June 2018: @Troy says: The old Model S spreadsheet was not maintained for a long time. Therefore I expanded the Model X spreadsheet to include the Model S too. Here are the links:

Spreadsheet: Model S/X Order Tracker
Google form: MS form to enter/edit data
How to filter and sort: Youtube video
This project is managed by @Troy aka /u/Teslike

The old Model S sheet is here. It shows data until June 2018.

Please post up any rumors or thoughts. I'd love a triple motor Plaid version without the additional size and weight of the S. I think the 3 is their best platform for a performance vehicle as it's Tesla's current most nimble/lightweight/low CoG vehicle.

This thread is for the general discussion of the marketplace listing For sale: Satin black powder coated 19” Gemini wheels (no rash!) with Continental Extreme Contact DWS 06 plus 275 45 ZR19 98W - San Francisco Bay Area. Please add to the discussion here.

Now appears to be live on UK configurator

328 Miles Range
0-60 in 2.9sec
163mph Top Speed
Bespoke Styling (which was already spotted several times)
Adaptive Suspension
20" "Warp" Wheels
Track Mode V3

Looks to still be called performance, but had the ludicrous badge in the render as previously seen.

Per reports from @j.gardiner.201, a V4 supercharger is under construction at the Coco Key Resort in Mt. Laurel Township, NJ. Looking at dig tickets, one was filed in January at that address to install conduit. Tesla is not named but it fits the reports. Hopefully someone can post pictures of construction here to verify.
@Big Earl @Guacahummus @corywright

First, we should analyze the matter without considering that the brand Tesla is making these changes and understand from a automotive/ engineering/ ergonomic point of view that whether indicator in steering has benefits compare to stalk. If it does, I'll accept that.

Obviously there is always a trade off in anything.

Having stalk as an independent module that it's functionality is not influenced by the functionality of another module (steering). Ergonomically, we apply force by our arms to move the steering, and we operate the stalk by our fingers (not thumb). This configuration only make sense if the steering is round. So stalks works with a round steering.

The no stalk configuration is ergonomically acceptable if there is a yoke. And only if the yoke doesn't need to turn not more halfway. In this case your thumbs are always where they suppose to be to function.

Another issue is the gear Selector.

First, I don't know what how you would select gear if you break your screen. Second, if you have a yoke configuration, the intent is to keep you hands on the yoke all the time. But that conflicts with selecting gear because to select gear you have to take you hand off the yoke and touch the screen.

Another issue is that selecting gear on screen mandates eye engagement (but not the stalk) which again defeats the purpose of buttons in yoke.

So the no stalk configuration only makes sense if the gear Selector is also on the yoke and the yoke only turns halfway.

Why write this post?
A lot of people are starting to get interested in IO. I don't think Octopus do a very good job of spelling out the benefits in their website. They have some FAQs, but the same questions keep coming up over and over on the forums.

What is it?
In a nutshell, IO is a split tariff that gives you a cheap off-peak rate for charging your EV and other electrical items in the household, including home batteries.

Isn’t that the same as Octopus Go or Go Faster?
The principle is the same, but in exchange for some benefits which we’ll explain, you allow Octopus to control the timing of your EV charge, so they can choose low carbon intensity and/or cheap wholesale priced time slots.

So I’m not in control of my charge? I don’t like the sound of that!
Well yes…and no. You’re in control of how much to charge and when you want the car to be ready, just like you would be normally. Within those parameters, you’re allowing Octopus to control which half-hour slots the car chooses to get to that target % charge. And you can always override IO if you want to “bump charge” through the day.

OK, but what are the benefits you mentioned for this trade off?
First of all, you get a larger guaranteed off-peak window for using household appliances and charging home batteries, etc. It’s six hours between 23:30-05:30. Go, for example, is a fixed 4 hour window.
In addition, when IO schedules your EV charging slots it sometimes creates schedules that fall outside of the fixed, six hour window. If that happens your EV charging and all your household use in these extra-slots is also charged at off-peak rates.
I have frequently had schedules give me seven or more hours of off-peak rates. On one occasion, I had a total of ten hours of off-peak rates.

Am I eligible?
You need a smart meter and a compatible car and/or charger. Since you’re reading this here, I assume you’ve got or are thinking of getting a Tesla. IO works with the Tesla API to create the charging schedules. The advantage of this is that IO will work with any* home charger. If you have a charger with smart features, you need to disable them so that the charger acts as a dumb switch. IO will control everything via Tesla’s API to start and stop your charging.
*Even your granny charger - but you need to tell IO what the max throughput is when you go through setup so that it can work out your schedules properly.

Some of this sounds too good to be true.
Phantom drain caused by having smart charging enabled in the Octopus app has been fixed as of 30th August 2022. One small side effect appears to be that schedules sometimes take longer to appear in the app after plugging in.

Further questions (to be updated in the main thread body once the edit timer on this post expires)

I have two EVs, can I charge the other while on IO?
Not with IO scheduling the charging, but you can charge any other car in the fixed 23:30-05:30 off peak window or at any other time at peak prices.

What are the rates etc?
Octopus do a decent job of explaining the peak and off-peak rates along with contracts etc. Head over to their pages to discover that.

I asked for a target % of x, but I got less than x.
There are two or three reasons for this.

The first, most common reason, is that Tesla reports battery % differently depending on where you look. The API (that IO uses) reports the gross battery %. This is generally fixed but can fluctuate very slightly. The Tesla app shows usable %. Apps like Teslamate and Teslafi can display both. Quite often, there is a delta of 2-3% which may be down to battery temp or other factors. This usable % will often be recovered as the battery warms up during a drive.

Some users have reported charging % being way off, perhaps 10% or more. This could be down to an error in the onboarding process. Some of the charger database entries incorrectly assume the charger you are onboarding is the 11kW version, without actually saying so in the charger description. The Andersen A2 was an early example of this. If you suspect this may be the case, the easiest thing to do is go through the on-boarding again and choose "Generic 7.4kW charger". It won't affect your functionality on IO in any way.

Lastly, it has to be mentioned that occasionally IO just craps out. It may be down to a comms error, a server error at Octopus' end, or just reasons. IO is a beta product and it's wise to expect one or two quirks from time to time

This is a friendly contest for Tesla owners to track the number of unique public Superchargers where they have charged

- "Supercharger count" is the number of unique public Superchargers where you have charged (just being there does not count), whether or not you were the person plugging in the vehicle (such as a Valet Parking garage or a Passenger) and whether or not it was your own personal vehicle (such as a rental, a loaner, or a friend's Tesla) as long as you were the one who drove >50% of the distance to reach the charger(s).
- The list of chargers in the supercharging.life database are the ones included in the game. If you think one should be added or removed from the list, let us know.
- Only chargers available to the public without special permission are included in the game.
- Chargers not connected to the grid are not counted.
- Doublet locations like the North/South Supercharger 'pairs' in CT, ME, NH, etc. count as individual locations.
- More than 1 charger at the same address, such as Lenox Square Mall (Atlanta, GA) or Montgomery Mall (Bethesda, MD) count as individual locations when they appear as a separate location on the Tesla Nav screen.
- Inactive competitors will be archived and removed from the leaderboard. Just post an update to be reactivated.

See Supercharging.Life database for info on how to post your own visits to the database (preferred), or post your locations with date visited to this thread and one of the admins will update your list for you. All visits must be posted to this thread - not just entered in supercharging.life. If you are the first in the game to visit a supercharger location, please post to the thread as soon as you can so others know it has been visited.

I'm going to install a Vantrue Nexus 4 Pro 3 dashcam in my 2023 Model S. In the older S's you could tap into the "12v" connection in the ceiling close to the mirror (there was a free cable you could connect to). The area of the ceiling doesn't exist on the new models. I've search this forum and Youtube, but have come across instructions for how to install a dashcam in a recent model. Has anyone done it? Do you know of instructions?

I started to pry away the cover of the camera cluster / rear view mirror housing, and it snaps open but doesn't come off easily so I left it and went to ask you all for instructions.

I recently proactively replaced my rear drive unit on my 2012 P85 with the new sport U Tesla seal delete manifold.

Here's my ScanMyTesla highest stator temp. Test done at 75 mph flat highway for 40 miles. Outside temp 55 F. 4500 feet elevation.

OrthoSurg said:

TSLA Frankfurt is -4% Dont look at this ticker it should be the other way around :X

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Probably because of Good old Russian news. Russia to recognize the independence of Donetsk and Lugansk.
Russian index down 10.5%, check here

As the title suggests, I'm debating on pulling the trigger on a MY before the anticipated March 1 "price increase". There's a few considerations I have in mind and wondering what the community thinks I may be missing?

• I'm not in a rush one way or the other, I can be patient;
• But I know the MY is for me!
• Tesla is known to offer end of the quarter incentives, who knows if they'll offer any before end of Q1
• I realize the best time to buy a Tesla is now
• Inventory deals look pretty good now

What are your predictions for what Tesla does for end of Q1 2024?

Wondering what people think about paying the extra $500 and getting the black gemini wheels OR buying aftermarket wheel covers. Seems there are a number of options out there.

Pros/Cons? Thanks..... I have only 2 days to decide.

I am currently looking for plug to fit these seats?

We've witnessed almost a complete collapse of the coal industry. Companies that once commanded Billions in Market Value just 5 year ago have been reduced to Bankrupt shells. Things can change very quickly when inflection points are reached.

Nuclear and Coal share the same base load profile. The one thing nuclear advocates are pushing to save nuclear 'A Carbon Tax' will also promote its poison; Variable Wind and Solar. If their growth continues we could see significant nuclear curtailment in less than 5 years. Plants with a capacity factor of >90% are running razor thin margins. They can't survive even modest curtailment.

As Bloomberg pointed out a few weeks ago... EVs are poised to lower demand enough to cause a permanent collapse in the price of oil by ~2022. As more countries pledge to ban petrol powered cars in the next 15 years and Tesla has accelerated production plans this appears to be almost inevitable.

Just picked up a new MXP (Oct 23 build) and was shocked to find (to the best of my knowledge) that Tesla still hasn't enabled users to have Bluetooth Audio (Headphones) connect with content on the rear screen. My 6yr old is dying to watch videos on the rear screen and I'd love to be able to have him use his Bluetooth headphones and spare me from having to listen! LOL

Has anyone had any luck getting this to work?

Before people say “OMG that’s horrible financially” let me start by saying this is a company car and the only thing that matters is keeping the monthly payment under $1200/mo. This is not coming out of my pocket.

Currently the company owns a 2022 M3P that was bought at peak pricing. There is about -12k equity in the car right now and the monthly payment is about $11xx/mo. The new M3P is so cheap that I could roll in that negative equity into the lease and still come out with a lease payment that is equivalent to my current payment - getting a new car while the company eats the negative equity. The company is fine with selling the car to get into a new lease if the payment stays the same, but they are not willing to write a $12k check out of pocket.

This leads to my question - will Tesla let me roll negative equity into a lease or is there no way around writing a check beforehand?