Vibration After Hitting Pothole, Service Center Says Car is Fine

[kcoms]

Hi All,

I've been a happy M3P owner for the last 3 months now and got my 2020 M3P (20" wheels) at the end of December. Overall the car has been fantastic and I have almost no complaints. Unfortunately though a few weeks ago I drove over a massive pothole going about 65MPH on the interstate. I was less than half a mile from my house, so I continued home and saw no visual damage after parking.

The next morning I noticed I was losing tire pressure in my front passenger tire: about 20PSI per 24 hours if I drove during the 24 hours, or about 10PSI per 24 hours if I just let the car sit parked. I pumped the tire up to keep it going over the next few days until I could get an appointment at the service center. I noticed that over the next few days, I started getting a really bad vibration when driving, mostly noticeable in the steering wheel and gas pedal. It was also much more intense when driving faster speeds.

The service center told me that this sounded like a typical pothole incident (including the vibration) and after getting the car on the lift they said not only would the tire have to be replaced, but the entire wheel would also have to be replaced since it was bent/cracked and I would need an alignment. They did the work in about 2 hours and then said I was all good to go.

On the drive home I noticed that there was still a slight vibration in the steering wheel when going over ~50MPH. I thought I was just going crazy or being hyper sensitive from the vibration before, but it continued to really bother me so I took it back to the service center. They pulled all 4 wheels off to inspect everything and checked the suspension. Their end diagnosis was that they couldn't find any issues.

To clarify, the vibration I am having now is only noticeable when driving over 50MPH. It's not nearly as bad as it was before they performed the repairs, but it's still bothersome. Once reaching 50MPH, it gets worse the faster I drive and it's uncomfortable to drive past 70MPH. The weird thing is though, it's much more noticeable on some roads than others and the condition of the pavement doesn't seem to be the factor. There's a freshly paved highway on my way to work each morning, yet the vibration seems the most intense on that road, but not so much on another road leading up to it where I drive the same speed. To make sure I wasn't going crazy, I drove my friend's M3P on the same road and I definitely did not notice the vibration in his car.

Does anyone have any advice or ideas on what I should try at this point? Should I insist on one of the service center techs riding/driving with me on the highway to feel the vibration? When I first bought my Tesla I was amazed at how smooth it was and how I felt like I was on a cloud when driving, so this is obviously disappointing to now have a vibration like this! Any advice would be incredibly appreciated!!! Thanks in advance!

 

[Quamera]

Hi All,

I've been a happy M3P owner for the last 3 months now and got my 2020 M3P (20" wheels) at the end of December. Overall the car has been fantastic and I have almost no complaints. Unfortunately though a few weeks ago I drove over a massive pothole going about 65MPH on the interstate. I was less than half a mile from my house, so I continued home and saw no visual damage after parking.

The next morning I noticed I was losing tire pressure in my front passenger tire: about 20PSI per 24 hours if I drove during the 24 hours, or about 10PSI per 24 hours if I just let the car sit parked. I pumped the tire up to keep it going over the next few days until I could get an appointment at the service center. I noticed that over the next few days, I started getting a really bad vibration when driving, mostly noticeable in the steering wheel and gas pedal. It was also much more intense when driving faster speeds.

The service center told me that this sounded like a typical pothole incident (including the vibration) and after getting the car on the lift they said not only would the tire have to be replaced, but the entire wheel would also have to be replaced since it was bent/cracked and I would need an alignment. They did the work in about 2 hours and then said I was all good to go.

On the drive home I noticed that there was still a slight vibration in the steering wheel when going over ~50MPH. I thought I was just going crazy or being hyper sensitive from the vibration before, but it continued to really bother me so I took it back to the service center. They pulled all 4 wheels off to inspect everything and checked the suspension. Their end diagnosis was that they couldn't find any issues.

To clarify, the vibration I am having now is only noticeable when driving over 50MPH. It's not nearly as bad as it was before they performed the repairs, but it's still bothersome. Once reaching 50MPH, it gets worse the faster I drive and it's uncomfortable to drive past 70MPH. The weird thing is though, it's much more noticeable on some roads than others and the condition of the pavement doesn't seem to be the factor. There's a freshly paved highway on my way to work each morning, yet the vibration seems the most intense on that road, but not so much on another road leading up to it where I drive the same speed. To make sure I wasn't going crazy, I drove my friend's M3P on the same road and I definitely did not notice the vibration in his car.

Does anyone have any advice or ideas on what I should try at this point? Should I insist on one of the service center techs riding/driving with me on the highway to feel the vibration? When I first bought my Tesla I was amazed at how smooth it was and how I felt like I was on a cloud when driving, so this is obviously disappointing to now have a vibration like this! Any advice would be incredibly appreciated!!! Thanks in advance!

The simplest, least expensive solution is wheel balance, Tesla should have ensured that the new wheel was properly balanced before it went on and again when you took it back but mistakes do happen. Either insist they balance all four wheels (the following rear wheel could have been impacted by the same pothole and dislodged a balance weight but either of the fronts would give you more vibration than the rear for the same weight inbalance) or take it to an independent to do the same job and ask them for the balance weights required, that will give you an indication of whether the wheel balance was the problem or not.

 

[Perscitus]

Smells like a bent replacement wheel (inner bends are impossible to detect by the likes of a. SCs b. tire/balance shops).

Get a road force balance, make sure they use modern wheel color-coded weights and apply them cleanly.

If the vibrations persists, it is most likely a bent wheel. Don't bother trying to get it fixed (many business out there), just have them replace again with new... consider some 18s/19s and at least 3.5" sidewall.

If after a wheel swap (even temporary), this vibration persists, then its some suspension damage they skimmed over (lots to go wrong down there).

 

[Quamera]

W

The simplest, least expensive solution is wheel balance, Tesla should have ensured that the new wheel was properly balanced before it went on and again when you took it back but mistakes do happen. Either insist they balance all four wheels (the following rear wheel could have been impacted by the same pothole and dislodged a balance weight but either of the fronts would give you more vibration than the rear for the same weight inbalance) or take it to an independent to do the same job and ask them for the balance weights required, that will give you an indication of whether the wheel balance was the problem or not.

Another possibility is that a belt (or belts) within a tyre has let go, that will cause the tyre to go out of round and result in mild to serious vibration and eventually tyre failure. Mild cases are hard to pick up visually but should be obvious on a balance machine. Because you don't have a spare tyre it is hard to swap each tyre in turn but if you sourced one from a dismantler/wrecker it is a handy item to have on hand and you could start the troubleshooting process with a jack and a wheel spanner.

 

[lbowroom]

Take the tech for a ride along

 

[dfwatt]

Hi All,

I've been a happy M3P owner for the last 3 months now and got my 2020 M3P (20" wheels) at the end of December. Overall the car has been fantastic and I have almost no complaints. Unfortunately though a few weeks ago I drove over a massive pothole going about 65MPH on the interstate. I was less than half a mile from my house, so I continued home and saw no visual damage after parking.

The next morning I noticed I was losing tire pressure in my front passenger tire: about 20PSI per 24 hours if I drove during the 24 hours, or about 10PSI per 24 hours if I just let the car sit parked. I pumped the tire up to keep it going over the next few days until I could get an appointment at the service center. I noticed that over the next few days, I started getting a really bad vibration when driving, mostly noticeable in the steering wheel and gas pedal. It was also much more intense when driving faster speeds.

The service center told me that this sounded like a typical pothole incident (including the vibration) and after getting the car on the lift they said not only would the tire have to be replaced, but the entire wheel would also have to be replaced since it was bent/cracked and I would need an alignment. They did the work in about 2 hours and then said I was all good to go.

On the drive home I noticed that there was still a slight vibration in the steering wheel when going over ~50MPH. I thought I was just going crazy or being hyper sensitive from the vibration before, but it continued to really bother me so I took it back to the service center. They pulled all 4 wheels off to inspect everything and checked the suspension. Their end diagnosis was that they couldn't find any issues.

To clarify, the vibration I am having now is only noticeable when driving over 50MPH. It's not nearly as bad as it was before they performed the repairs, but it's still bothersome. Once reaching 50MPH, it gets worse the faster I drive and it's uncomfortable to drive past 70MPH. The weird thing is though, it's much more noticeable on some roads than others and the condition of the pavement doesn't seem to be the factor. There's a freshly paved highway on my way to work each morning, yet the vibration seems the most intense on that road, but not so much on another road leading up to it where I drive the same speed. To make sure I wasn't going crazy, I drove my friend's M3P on the same road and I definitely did not notice the vibration in his car.

Does anyone have any advice or ideas on what I should try at this point? Should I insist on one of the service center techs riding/driving with me on the highway to feel the vibration? When I first bought my Tesla I was amazed at how smooth it was and how I felt like I was on a cloud when driving, so this is obviously disappointing to now have a vibration like this! Any advice would be incredibly appreciated!!! Thanks in advance!

Simplest explanation for sure is that the rear wheel on the side impacted was also deformed. Sometimes it's hard to tell but you can see vertical and sometimes even lateral runout if you spin the wheel. If that's not the explanation then it's just simple tire imbalance somewhere. Folks talking about bent suspension components are probably chasing down a rabbit hole. While that's possible to get to that kind of force you would need to do serious damage to both Wheels (typically blowing up both tires and crushing both Wheels) if you put the car on an alignment rack you would see that it could no longer get into spec. Only toe can be adjusted on the stock suspension in any case, but you might see the impacted side showing serious changes in camber and caster. But again I would say most likely explanation is that the rear wheel on that side was also bent, then simple Tire imbalance. Of those two I think the bent wheel on the rear side impacted is more likely just because of typical Dynamics in this kind of event. In other words typically the front side takes the bigger impact but sometimes not, but then the rear tire and wheel assembly comes along and gets pretty pounded too.

 

[kcoms]

Sorry for the delayed response! I really appreciate everyone's input...thank you SO much! I scheduled an appointment at the SC for next week and will push them on checking the balance and checking the other wheel behind the one that was replaced. Hopefully it's one of those two and not the suspension.

 

[lbowroom]

I don’t get it. If it’s obvious when you drive it, take them on a test drive and demonstrate. No need to push them once the problem is demonstrated. It’s not intermittent, is it?

 

[kcoms]

I don’t get it. If it’s obvious when you drive it, take them on a test drive and demonstrate. No need to push them once the problem is demonstrated. It’s not intermittent, is it?

It's not intermittent so per say, but it's more obvious sometimes than others depending on the road being driven on.

 

[ULEWZ]

I bet you also bent the rear rim on the same side. I am pretty sure that pothole got both rims unless you were in a turn.

 

[kcoms]

I bet you also bent the rear rim on the same side. I am pretty sure that pothole got both rims unless you were in a turn.

I asked them about this when I first had it in and they said the rear wheel checked out okay...so we'll see. Hopefully it's not that since it was a $1,500 repair to replace the front wheel and tire.

 

[Andiroidsukesh]

I asked them about this when I first had it in and they said the rear wheel checked out okay...so we'll see. Hopefully it's not that since it was a $1,500 repair to replace the front wheel and tire.

Hey, sorry hope your issue is fixed. Would you be able to provide any new updates please about the car and issue you were facing. Thank you.

 

[TSLA Pilot]

First, I'm surprised that no one has mentioned this, but this SHOULD be an insurance claim, hopefully a comprehensive claim, not collision. See below.

Second, we went through Hell with our second-hand, high-mileage, 2013 P85 (purchased via private party/eBay, from a complete scumbag seller in Pueblo, CO) that had strange vibrations for YEARS, until the smart techs at the Scottsdale SC had the brains to ask for Tesla HQ support/ideas.

Tesla's not-as-great SC (in Texas) replaced:

Both half-shafts
Drive Unit (twice!)
Wheel bearings/hubs
front rotors
and so many other parts that I can't even remember them all.

Then that Texas SC said "it must be the tires or wheels."

So we replaced:
four(!) wheels
eight(!) tires

AT OUR EXPENSE.

And it still didn't get it fixed!

That was very, very expensive, but it was, eventually, reimbursed by USAA.

Finally, the Scottsdale SC, for the first time, looked at the car's long nightmare of repairs and took pity. After a long test drive, at high speeds with long winding curves, they were finally able to diagnose that it vibrated the most on curves in one direction. They passed that info to Tesla HQ and they suggested another item to replace (at Tesla's expense): front struts/suspension components.

After about a half-dozen repair visits, not one Tesla tech had been able to fix it, until then.

Thus, I would plan on replacing the other wheel on that side, and BOTH tires (you likely have a broken belt in a tire or tires), as a start.

If that doesn't do it, then plan on possibly replacing the entire suspension on that side, or perhaps both sides--sometimes potholes are wider than you think they are.

Make a claim against the state or city that has jurisdiction over that segment of road as well. It may not get you paid, but it should be their responsibility to keep the roads intact. They might even fix the damn road after your complaint as you are far, far from the only person to have a car destroyed by that pothole.

If denied, then make your insurance claim (for a comprehensive claim), as soon as possible; send copies of all your expenses.

If your insurance company pushes back, which they shouldn't, then get a new insurance company. (And file a complaint with your state insurance commissioner.)

Lastly, if there are still troubles trying to diagnose your issues, consider asking your local TESLA-APPROVED Body Shop take a look too--you may have also damaged/bent the body's suspension mounting points.

Sidebar: This is just another example of how incompetent governance impacts life . . . something to keep in mind next time you're in the voting booth.

 

[kcoms]

Hey, sorry hope your issue is fixed. Would you be able to provide any new updates please about the car and issue you were facing. Thank you.

I took it back last week and they said the rear passenger side wheel was also bent. They replaced it, re-balanced all of the tires, did another alignment. $1,500 more spent yet there is still a vibration. This time though the vibration is more of a pulsating feeling than constant. Ugh...I am going to take it back again, I'm just burnt out at the moment and haven't been driving much.

 

[kcoms]

@TSLA Pilot wow thanks for the super detailed post! This gives me some hope. To address a few things you brought up:

1. Insurance - I also have USAA but I assumed I couldn't get any money since I didn't file it as a claim and let USAA "fix it" since I just took it to Tesla and paid out of pocket upfront. Did USAA reimburse you??

2. State Claim - Yup, already filed a claim with the state. They said the construction taking place on that part of the highway is a contractor's responsibility so they transferred the claim to the contractor. About every two weeks someone has emailed me from that contractor letting me know my claim is still under review. No word yet though on whether or not they will pay it. That being said, the pothole was semi-repaired the next day and was fully repaired another day or two after that. Apparently my state (Virginia) only reimburses you for damage if it was due to negligence or it was not repaired for a longer than acceptable time period. Based on the location and size of the pothole I am sure others must have also damaged their cars and I personally think they should have blocked the lane off in that area, but I have a feeling that 2 days may be considered within the acceptable timeframe. But who knows how the state interprets that...

3. Body Shop - That was in the back of my mind actually, but I was thinking about taking it to a regular tire/auto shop first since the issue has nothing to do with anything Tesla specific. I'm just not sure how many of them will want to touch the car. I like the idea of the Tesla approved body shop though since they would be much more familiar with the car and repairing damage to it.

 

[TSLA Pilot]

To answer your questions:

Our USAA claim was filed years later, almost four, IIRC. They paid, but advised that if it had been too much longer I'd have been out of luck.

Fortunately, I kept all my correspondence trying to get the City to pay, and their refusal as well. They didn't cover the tires, however, but it was still about a $4k claim.

Ouch.

However, in your case, I would pursue the contractor, and expect a "Denied" letter first, as they hope you'll just give up after that letter. (Most do.) Don't. Usually the second demand letter should get it paid.

If that doesn't do it, then follow up with the state's commissioner of insurance as they might be able to compel the contractor to pay up.

 

[Blucenturion]

First, I'm surprised that no one has mentioned this, but this SHOULD be an insurance claim, hopefully a comprehensive claim, not collision. See below.

Second, we went through Hell with our second-hand, high-mileage, 2013 P85 (purchased via private party/eBay, from a complete scumbag seller in Pueblo, CO) that had strange vibrations for YEARS, until the smart techs at the Scottsdale SC had the brains to ask for Tesla HQ support/ideas.

Tesla's not-as-great SC (in Texas) replaced:

Both half-shafts
Drive Unit (twice!)
Wheel bearings/hubs
front rotors
and so many other parts that I can't even remember them all.

Then that Texas SC said "it must be the tires or wheels."

So we replaced:
four(!) wheels
eight(!) tires

AT OUR EXPENSE.

And it still didn't get it fixed!

That was very, very expensive, but it was, eventually, reimbursed by USAA.

Finally, the Scottsdale SC, for the first time, looked at the car's long nightmare of repairs and took pity. After a long test drive, at high speeds with long winding curves, they were finally able to diagnose that it vibrated the most on curves in one direction. They passed that info to Tesla HQ and they suggested another item to replace (at Tesla's expense): front struts/suspension components.

After about a half-dozen repair visits, not one Tesla tech had been able to fix it, until then.

Thus, I would plan on replacing the other wheel on that side, and BOTH tires (you likely have a broken belt in a tire or tires), as a start.

If that doesn't do it, then plan on possibly replacing the entire suspension on that side, or perhaps both sides--sometimes potholes are wider than you think they are.

Make a claim against the state or city that has jurisdiction over that segment of road as well. It may not get you paid, but it should be their responsibility to keep the roads intact. They might even fix the damn road after your complaint as you are far, far from the only person to have a car destroyed by that pothole.

If denied, then make your insurance claim (for a comprehensive claim), as soon as possible; send copies of all your expenses.

If your insurance company pushes back, which they shouldn't, then get a new insurance company. (And file a complaint with your state insurance commissioner.)

Lastly, if there are still troubles trying to diagnose your issues, consider asking your local TESLA-APPROVED Body Shop take a look too--you may have also damaged/bent the body's suspension mounting points.

Sidebar: This is just another example of how incompetent governance impacts life . . . something to keep in mind next time you're in the voting booth.

I've never read anything so awful. I don't know how you kept your sanity.

 

[kcoms]

To answer your questions:

Our USAA claim was filed years later, almost four, IIRC. They paid, but advised that if it had been too much longer I'd have been out of luck.

Fortunately, I kept all my correspondence trying to get the City to pay, and their refusal as well. They didn't cover the tires, however, but it was still about a $4k claim.

Ouch.

However, in your case, I would pursue the contractor, and expect a "Denied" letter first, as they hope you'll just give up after that letter. (Most do.) Don't. Usually the second demand letter should get it paid.

If that doesn't do it, then follow up with the state's commissioner of insurance as they might be able to compel the contractor to pay up.

Thanks! I really appreciate the information and advice.

 

[Needsdecaf]

First, I'm surprised that no one has mentioned this, but this SHOULD be an insurance claim, hopefully a comprehensive claim, not collision. See below.

Second, we went through Hell with our second-hand, high-mileage, 2013 P85 (purchased via private party/eBay, from a complete scumbag seller in Pueblo, CO) that had strange vibrations for YEARS, until the smart techs at the Scottsdale SC had the brains to ask for Tesla HQ support/ideas.

Tesla's not-as-great SC (in Texas) replaced:

Both half-shafts
Drive Unit (twice!)
Wheel bearings/hubs
front rotors
and so many other parts that I can't even remember them all.

Then that Texas SC said "it must be the tires or wheels."

So we replaced:
four(!) wheels
eight(!) tires

AT OUR EXPENSE.

And it still didn't get it fixed!

That was very, very expensive, but it was, eventually, reimbursed by USAA.

Finally, the Scottsdale SC, for the first time, looked at the car's long nightmare of repairs and took pity. After a long test drive, at high speeds with long winding curves, they were finally able to diagnose that it vibrated the most on curves in one direction. They passed that info to Tesla HQ and they suggested another item to replace (at Tesla's expense): front struts/suspension components.

After about a half-dozen repair visits, not one Tesla tech had been able to fix it, until then.

Thus, I would plan on replacing the other wheel on that side, and BOTH tires (you likely have a broken belt in a tire or tires), as a start.

If that doesn't do it, then plan on possibly replacing the entire suspension on that side, or perhaps both sides--sometimes potholes are wider than you think they are.

Make a claim against the state or city that has jurisdiction over that segment of road as well. It may not get you paid, but it should be their responsibility to keep the roads intact. They might even fix the damn road after your complaint as you are far, far from the only person to have a car destroyed by that pothole.

If denied, then make your insurance claim (for a comprehensive claim), as soon as possible; send copies of all your expenses.

If your insurance company pushes back, which they shouldn't, then get a new insurance company. (And file a complaint with your state insurance commissioner.)

Lastly, if there are still troubles trying to diagnose your issues, consider asking your local TESLA-APPROVED Body Shop take a look too--you may have also damaged/bent the body's suspension mounting points.

Sidebar: This is just another example of how incompetent governance impacts life . . . something to keep in mind next time you're in the voting booth.

That's insane. There was no reason to replace all that. 8 tires, WTF were they thinking? Also, there's no need to replace all suspension components just chasing a vibration. Someone is making some really wild-ass guesses in your case, and in the case of the OP, that's just wasted money.

OP, as far as claims go, yes, you can likely make a claim with USAA. But keep pin mind it will end up as a claim on your record. Is it worth the potential increase in premiums? Only you can answer that.

 

[kcoms]

OP, as far as claims go, yes, you can likely make a claim with USAA. But keep pin mind it will end up as a claim on your record. Is it worth the potential increase in premiums? Only you can answer that.

Right, I figured it wasn't worth it. I'm very fortunate to be able to afford the repairs out of pocket, and increased premiums over the course of a year could easily be more expensive than what I've paid so far, so I didn't know if it made sense.