If you have the "Unable to drive, Voltage Supply too low" error message however you have plenty of miles left in the battery as I did with 185 miles remaining, then it might be something extremely simple causing your problem. When this happened to me in my driveway I couldn't get the car to move at all and I also couldn't get it to charge. I went through all of the usual steps like soft reset of the system, disconnected and reconnected the LV battery, and put the LV battery on a charger. I finally went into service mode and noticed something odd in the HV section. When I called up the display for the fuse, battery and BMS, it showed the battery and BMS as "orange" and the fuse as "greyed" out. I then attempted a BMS reset which didn't do anything at all. This sort of led me to think the HV fuse had blown but I wasn't sure. I had pretty much resigned myself to yet another $150 tow into Tesla and the usual $200 diagnostic fee not to mention the days and days of waiting for them to get around to my car and probably having to pay for something I didn't even need "as usual". With absolutely no solid indication of what could be wrong I finally started "Easter egging" (Navy technical folks will know what that means) and began pulling each fuse in the under hood fuse block one by one and checking them. I came across a 10 amp fuse F125 "Contactor Power" which was blown. I have no idea why it was blown but this turned out to be the whole problem. I replaced this micro fuse and it fixed everything. It turned out to be a $.05 cent fuse.
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Unable To Drive, Voltage Supply Too Low error message easy fix
- Thread starter PDQFiero
- Start date
If I were to guess, you may have a nick in a wire somewhere. Possibly (likely?) animal damage chewing on something.
Hopefully I’m wrong but that’d be my guess why that fuse popped.
May I be wrong and it’s just something transient.
Hopefully I’m wrong but that’d be my guess why that fuse popped.
May I be wrong and it’s just something transient.
I got the same message. It turned into a painful series of events. Couldn’t get my 2016 Model S 75D out of the driveway even, because the computer went dead. Nothing. No lights, nothing on the screen.
Called CAA (like AAA). In the freezing cold, the tow truck driver and I desperately tried to find the 12v battery. It wasn’t where the dealership said it would be. After several calls, finally spoke to a Tesla mechanic, who told me to remove the 3 large black plastic shields under the hood. Got that done. The tow truck driver tested the 12v battery and it was perfect.
So he had to leave, because he couldn’t get the car onto the back of the tow truck. Then I called Tesla customer support. They send a different tow truck with bogey wheels. Tow truck driver #2 was a nice guy, but struggled to get the wide Model S onto the wheels. He was all set to go when I showed him the bogey wheel assembly was going to scratch the car. So another 20 minutes passed before he got the wheels widened. The Model S left for the dealership. Time elapsed: about 2 hours.
So the dealership diagnosed and fixed the problem ( luckily there were 2 months left in the extended warranty, and Tesla paid for the tow truck). It turned out to be a faulty battery coolant heater. Who would have guessed?
Called CAA (like AAA). In the freezing cold, the tow truck driver and I desperately tried to find the 12v battery. It wasn’t where the dealership said it would be. After several calls, finally spoke to a Tesla mechanic, who told me to remove the 3 large black plastic shields under the hood. Got that done. The tow truck driver tested the 12v battery and it was perfect.
So he had to leave, because he couldn’t get the car onto the back of the tow truck. Then I called Tesla customer support. They send a different tow truck with bogey wheels. Tow truck driver #2 was a nice guy, but struggled to get the wide Model S onto the wheels. He was all set to go when I showed him the bogey wheel assembly was going to scratch the car. So another 20 minutes passed before he got the wheels widened. The Model S left for the dealership. Time elapsed: about 2 hours.
So the dealership diagnosed and fixed the problem ( luckily there were 2 months left in the extended warranty, and Tesla paid for the tow truck). It turned out to be a faulty battery coolant heater. Who would have guessed?
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