Track Report - Auto Club Speedway

I arrived at the track with a 98% charge.

1st session, I went with the fast cars and was able to keep up. By the time the 1st session was done, I have a 60% charge left. The car feels good. I can brake really late due to the BBK. I was able to overtake some fast cars. By the 4th lap, my battery was orange, by the 5th lap - my battery was red.

2nd session, I knew it was going to rain that day but I was hoping it'll happen late. I changed the coilovers from full soft to 8 clicks stiff. I can feel the car is stiffer. This is probably a bad move since I don't daily drive the car with this setup. By the time this session was done, I have 16% left in my car so I drove directly to the supercharger. (15mins away). It took me 45mins to charge to 98%. By the 3rd lap, my battery was orange and by the 4th lap - my battery was red.

3rd session. it started raining before this session. I had 98% and by the time the race was done, I had 30% charged. I wonder if this is because the car is using more battery to cool down its internals. I drove back directly to the supercharger and stayed there for 40mins to get a 98% charge.

4th session, since a lot of people, have left. I finally get a chance to run faster. However, I had lots of new issues that popped up. By the 3rd lap, my battery was orange. I guess this is what we get for having an EV car.

• the car was sliding. I guess the sidewalls of my tires are toasted and the track was wet due to the rain.
• braking from 140mph to 70 to 40mIh. i felt that the ABS was kicking hard. it felt that the left tires were braking first then the right tires will brake. Both brakes will toggle. It feels weird when you feel that from 130mpho a 50mph. I spoke to MPP about this due to my stoptech BBK from them. they said this is normal. I spoke to some of my friends who track a lot and they said it seems abnormal. it should be linear not this strong.

Future plan from here:

• To track at buttonwillow and willow springs
• Purchased a sim racing to practice
• upgrade to MPP sports coilovers and rt660 tires
• Plan to purchase a Supra dedicated track car in 2-3 years and Garmin catalyst this year.

1:55 after the rain.

Tesla vs Corvette

Tesla vs Nissan GTR

Tesla vs McLaren

Tesla vs Ferrari
Tesla Model 3 chasing a Beautiful Ferrari - Auto Club Speedway

 

[stevehifi]

The brake issue that you describe is a problem with the thrust arm bushings not keeping the front end stable under braking. I have the same problem and the the same MPP.R BBK. I did do the MPP inserts, but honestly I'm considering replacing with the solid bushings at this point.

What coilovers are you running now? ACS has a lot of bumpy sections (chicane, playground) that unsettles the car so running stiffer settings with the suspension is not always better for compliance and grip.

 

[Godmode]

The brake issue that you describe is a problem with the thrust arm bushings not keeping the front end stable under braking. I have the same problem and the the same MPP.R BBK. I did do the MPP inserts, but honestly I'm considering replacing with the solid bushings at this point.

What coilovers are you running now? ACS has a lot of bumpy sections (chicane, playground) that unsettles the car so running stiffer settings with the suspension is not always better for compliance and grip.

I have the mpp inserts installed as well.
Is it true that the solid MPP are noisy? Youll hear the thud every bump?

Im using tein flex z coilovers. I felt that full soft was more controllable and predictable.

 

[Mash]

I have the mpp inserts installed as well.
Is it true that the solid MPP are noisy? Youll hear the thud every bump?

Im using tein flex z coilovers. I felt that full soft was more controllable and predictable.

Not noisy.

 

[Godmode]

Not noisy.

Got it. I will have to upgrade to it.
I see that you have oil coolers. Does it really work? In the 4th session. I've got a red battery at the 3rd lap.

 

[Mash]

Got it. I will have to upgrade to it.
I see that you have oil coolers. Does it really work? In the 4th session. I've got a red battery at the 3rd lap.

It absolutely does. I stay longer and restore much much faster. But I have 3x (maybe even 5x) cooling power vs MPP cooler at 10x higher cost (all custom), so I can't comment on difference of MPP cooler vs stock.

As a matter of fact, I don't overheat at all. My actual motor and battery temps are never as high as during supercharging or preparing cycle for it. But Tesla ECU doesn't believe that and eventually cutting power anyway. So I'm waiting for somebody to hack it.

 

[Godmode]

It absolutely does. I stay longer and restore much much faster. But I have 3x (maybe even 5x) cooling power vs MPP cooler at 10x higher cost (all custom), so I can't comment on difference of MPP cooler vs stock.

As a matter of fact, I don't overheat at all. My actual motor and battery temps are never as high as during supercharging or preparing cycle for it. But Tesla ECU doesn't believe that and eventually cutting power anyway. So I'm waiting for somebody to hack it.

where can I get these oil coolers?

 

[stevehifi]

Got it. I will have to upgrade to it.
I see that you have oil coolers. Does it really work? In the 4th session. I've got a red battery at the 3rd lap.

Did you enable track mode early enough before you got on track? You need to enable at least 10-15min before to allow preconditioning otherwise the battery will get overwhelmed quickly. Only issue I had was with the rear motor getting hot but never an issue with the battery.

 

[Godmode]

Did you enable track mode early enough before you got on track? You need to enable at least 10-15min before to allow preconditioning otherwise the battery will get overwhelmed quickly. Only issue I had was with the rear motor getting hot but never an issue with the battery.

I did not. Next time, I will. ty

 

[Mash]

where can I get these oil coolers?

I only know about 1 option.

Nür Rear Drive Unit Oil Cooler for Tesla Model 3 | MPP.R

The Nür Rear Drive Unit Oil Cooler for Tesla Model 3 dramatically increases the thermal cooling capacity of your rear drive motor!

www.mountainpassperformance.com

Mine is custom at 10x cost.

But you should do cooling laps and use track mode between sessions

 

[Godmode]

I only know about 1 option.

Nür Rear Drive Unit Oil Cooler for Tesla Model 3 | MPP.R

The Nür Rear Drive Unit Oil Cooler for Tesla Model 3 dramatically increases the thermal cooling capacity of your rear drive motor!

www.mountainpassperformance.com

Mine is custom at 10x cost.

But you should do cooling laps and use track mode between sessions

did you ever upgrade your radiator?
can you share the information about your Custom Front oil cooler?

 

[Mash]

did you ever upgrade your radiator?
can you share the information about your Custom Front oil cooler?

No, I decided to keep stock radiator and directly address the hottest fluid - motor cooling oil. Efficiency of radiator proportional to temperature difference of air and fluid. And coolant is not hot at all. Plus that way I lose the frunk completely.

I have 2 medium size oil coolers with fans left and right of the bumper. There is a reasonably high air pressure without any coolers visibility since I use stock side aero slots. It's a street car. Fans useful for quick cooling after charging before hot lapping.

I have a high speed oil pump that takes oil from the stock oil loop at the filter. So stock oil pump doesn't have any significant pressure drop. If I turn off the pump - oil goes through the stock loop only, so the system doesn't mess with supercharger preheating.

Rear cooler connected in a same way as front, but it's a single very big unit and it doesn't attempt to take natural airflow. So it uses large fan to push air out through drilled holes in rear undertray. From the outside car looks like stock except aero. MPP solution requires to make "exhaust" hole in the rear of the bumper.

I also have oil temp sensors for front and rear to know exactly what's going on, because CAN data actually doesn't have oil temperature at all (ones it has are incorrect and doesn't correlate with the truth).

I believe that my design works and mass market product would do the trick while being much cheaper. But, again, we need a software hack. Because if you go with the average pace of 300kW (including braking and coasting time) - it starts to cut the power at 7 minutes when you at 50% charge.

Stock cooling would start cutting power at 2-3 minutes in if you have large enough brakes. So it does help.

For the normal size track if you do 2-1 hot-cool laps it keeps temps intact for the whole charge level range. 200kw pace on slower tracks works indefinitely. But it's just not enough to finish whole 7:30 Nurburgring lap at full power.

 

[Godmode]

No, I decided to keep stock radiator and directly address the hottest fluid - motor cooling oil. Efficiency of radiator proportional to temperature difference of air and fluid. And coolant is not hot at all. Plus that way I lose the frunk completely.

I have 2 medium size oil coolers with fans left and right of the bumper. There is a reasonably high air pressure without any coolers visibility since I use stock side aero slots. It's a street car. Fans useful for quick cooling after charging before hot lapping.

I have a high speed oil pump that takes oil from the stock oil loop at the filter. So stock oil pump doesn't have any significant pressure drop. If I turn off the pump - oil goes through the stock loop only, so the system doesn't mess with supercharger preheating.

Rear cooler connected in a same way as front, but it's a single very big unit and it doesn't attempt to take natural airflow. So it uses large fan to push air out through drilled holes in rear undertray. From the outside car looks like stock except aero. MPP solution requires to make "exhaust" hole in the rear of the bumper.

I also have oil temp sensors for front and rear to know exactly what's going on, because CAN data actually doesn't have oil temperature at all (ones it has are incorrect and doesn't correlate with the truth).

I believe that my design works and mass market product would do the trick while being much cheaper. But, again, we need a software hack. Because if you go with the average pace of 300kW (including braking and coasting time) - it starts to cut the power at 7 minutes when you at 50% charge.

Stock cooling would start cutting power at 2-3 minutes in if you have large enough brakes. So it does help.

For the normal size track if you do 2-1 hot-cool laps it keeps temps intact for the whole charge level range. 200kw pace on slower tracks works indefinitely. But it's just not enough to finish whole 7:30 Nurburgring lap at full power.

My MPP rear oil cooler has arrived. I am waiting for the MPP cooling party so I can install them both in a day. I was planning to add a NACA duct at the rear to help cool down the oil cooler on top of MPP's advice.
What are you using for oil temp sensors for the rear oil coolers? How are you doing this?

I am really impressed with your work. I was wondering if it would be alright if you shared your work. I'd be interested even if you sell those front cooler with the oil temp sensors.

 

[Mash]

My MPP rear oil cooler has arrived. I am waiting for the MPP cooling party so I can install them both in a day. I was planning to add a NACA duct at the rear to help cool down the oil cooler on top of MPP's advice.
What are you using for oil temp sensors for the rear oil coolers? How are you doing this?

I am really impressed with your work. I was wondering if it would be alright if you shared your work. I'd be interested even if you sell those front cooler with the oil temp sensors.

I used simple oil temp gauges which I keep hidden in the center tunnel together with switches to turn on pumps and fans. In the loop I'm using oil filter relocator so that it mixes 2 oil loops - stock loop and radiators loop. Sensor is installed at relocator after mixing of both loops output so I measure the result of radiators cooling.

I don't have schematics of the system, but I have somewhere parts list, I can check and repost with some photos of how parts were installed. But I'm not sure that there are many people who have the same goals - keep stock look and have as much cooling as possible disregarding costs. Plus it required cutting of some parts, cutting of small corners in front bumper and making aluminium boxes and mounts. It's not plug and play solution.

I also lost this aero flow function of side slots on a front bumper. I had to block it and revert airflow to radiators. But my wheels are too wide for that to work properly, anyway.

Anyway, I hope that helps.