I recently bought a 2015 Tesla s p90dl. Drove it for about an hour then got turtle mode after stopped turning on. Went to get it checked at Tesla and they quoted me around 8k usd for the ldu and battery heater. I looked up videos be such to try to figure out if I can fix it myself and saw many about the seals being changed. My question is would it still be salvageable if I changed the seals or should I just save up enough money to try to get the ldu. I checked the speed sensor it had mainly debris hmm kind of like when coolant and oil mix you get a bit of a milky substance with dirt onto it.
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Tesla S dirt in speed sensor. Bms_f027 BMS_w027
- Thread starter Altas991
- Start date
NewbyMaybe
Newby1Kenowby
There's a lot of damage in the electronics. If you have a machine shop then go for it or go to an independent EV shop. Where are you located?
brainhouston
Active Member
if inverter didn't get corroded then its salvageable but the price for someone else to rebuild, like QC charge, is almost same as Teslas unit and u get 4yr warranty from Tesla, if u do it urself then u save money but spend a lot of time
i think that color is from stator corrosion (i believe it got some iron in there?..)
what codes u have in service mode?
i think that color is from stator corrosion (i believe it got some iron in there?..)
what codes u have in service mode?
Wow you guys reply quickly lol. I am located near Las Cruces New Mexico. The service codes are bms_f027 and bms_w027. I don't have a machine shop just YouTube, youguys and tools you can find at harbor freight tools. Tesla service did an isolation test and said my battery heater and drive unit were the cause. The battery heater seems doable. The ldu seems a gamble such as if I open it and it's not repairable. Hmm I think it is iron but what would that indicate. Tried to figure it out but couldn't which is why I am here seeking advice from people more knowledgeable.
brainhouston
Active Member
this should get u up to speed on all LDU related
teslamotorsclub.com
DIY Tesla Drive Unit Repair
Check the youtube channel I started about DIY repair of the Tesla Large Drive Unit (DU). This may benefit those who like to fix their car themselves, epecially if it's out of warranty. Here is the link: https://youtube.com/channel/UCIHg1trfQQTYIA88w-ZcCdw Background: The DU in my 2012 Toyota...
teslamotorsclub.com
NewbyMaybe
Newby1Kenowby
The codes sometimes show up long before the system shuts down. When the coolant starts to get into the electronics then a code results from grounding happening where there isn't supposed to be any.
For a shutdown to happen either there's coolant in a lot of places that should be dry or you got lucky and its in a few bad spots.
The debris is a sign that it's been leaking a long time.
If you take it apart then you should do a complete rebuild due to it's age.
For a shutdown to happen either there's coolant in a lot of places that should be dry or you got lucky and its in a few bad spots.
The debris is a sign that it's been leaking a long time.
If you take it apart then you should do a complete rebuild due to it's age.
brainhouston
Active Member
how wet n dirty its inside the speed sensor cavity n speed sensor itself
take pics when u remove it before u wipe anything n post here for 'analysis'
Okay so I got a view of the cavity of the speed sensor. Doesn't feel wet more slightly slimy If it would need a complete rebuild what would that mean? Is it the inverter part and motor part or wouldn it be the seals? The seals seem doable but the motor and inverter might be hard to obtain and close to the price of a reman from eBay. Also after I do install it how would I reset the code for the isolation issue? I have an mcu1 I believe so would that be toolbox 2.1 how would I aquire that.
brainhouston
Active Member
you won't know till u open it up, does look like its been leaking for a while
if inverter n stator didn't get damaged, then u replace bearings/seals i think, maybe even just re-pack bearings...
codes might reset on its own, not sure but u need toolbox 3, 2.1 is obsolete now unless u have old software
Okay makes sense ill try to get that done in a month or so need to plan out how to open it and so on lol ill try to get a uhaul storage. I don't want to use a bunch of random pieces of wood so I am thinking using 4 jack stands to put the car on then putting a low-profile transmission jack to remove the subframe or possibly a motorcycle lyft jack with a flat dolly on top to lower the subframe not sure what would work better yet. Limited to resources. I can maybe take the car to a shop and work on it there but I would need to get toolbox 3 then reset the counts to drive it a bit though not sure if that would be dangerous.
NewbyMaybe
Newby1Kenowby
Have you seen this one? He doesn't use jackstands, probably because of the height. It's dangerous.
The typical rotor shaft damage means a new seal won't last long. Maybe that will be solved with the new coolant delete manifold from QC Charge?
I bought Tesla toolbox for one month old o try to reset BMS so I canove the car one mile away to a garage but I my just saw this msg about needed a separate account for to reset the immobilizer is that something new? I haven't tried on toolbox since struggling to connect it keep having issues with communication with Odin haven't been able to enter toolbox once yet even though I have the gateway unlocked. Any thoughts on this?
brainhouston
Active Member
Were you able to get the issue resolved. I have a 2015 model s (Salvage). Had minimal damage, which i got repaired. I had to change the front radiators (driver side and center one). The car was driving. Had the traction light on, and now i have the same errors as you (bms_f027 & bms_w027).
Car has been sitting for a while, and wanting to fix it myself. Any leads ?
Car has been sitting for a while, and wanting to fix it myself. Any leads ?
Have not been able to work on it since I cannot reset the immobilizer even with tesla tool box so it has just been sitting there. I changed the battery heater still pending the ldu since both those were having isolation issues. I might end up taking it to the dealer since not sure if there is a way to reset the immobilizer
